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Tamiya TRF417

Old 06-01-2011, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia
They're cars were box stock with exception of hpi silvers all the way around and double gear diffs. Victor told me 500,000 front and never asked for the rear diff oil.
I also recall seeing split suspension blocks frt and rear!!
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:12 PM
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Does anyone have stock on the new 417 Tamiya Gear Diff II??
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Turillo
Does anyone have stock on the new 417 Tamiya Gear Diff II??
It's not released yet. Believe production is early June.
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kentech
It's not released yet. Believe production is early June.
Thanks for the reply.
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:37 AM
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Anyone looking for a used like new kit

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-like-new.html
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:55 PM
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Hey entitymugenmtx ygpm
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Old 06-03-2011, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Turillo
Does anyone have stock on the new 417 Tamiya Gear Diff II??
MuchHobby has it listed already, along with the 417 w/ Gear diff II.

http://www.muchhobby.com/shopping/pr...oducts_id=6081
http://www.muchhobby.com/shopping/pr...oducts_id=6078


So Im sure Tom just got them in at Tamiya Borgfelt.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:16 AM
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anyone experiencing a loud shudder when 1/2 to full throttle and turning the wheels in either direction? say about 1/3 turn and higher?

i'm thinking it's the one way front "diff"?????

this is when the car is up on a rack and i'm listening and looking at it closely.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ldivinag
anyone experiencing a loud shudder when 1/2 to full throttle and turning the wheels in either direction? say about 1/3 turn and higher?

i'm thinking it's the one way front "diff"?????

this is when the car is up on a rack and i'm listening and looking at it closely.
And has been said before... ignore it!

It's do to with the fact that the CVD's are not true constant volecity joints, and there is always a little binding in their action. Doing it without any load and a spool will only make it more apparent. It will happen with every car on the market that uses the CVD-style driveshafts.

It really isn't something to worry about, and given the only set of dual-CVD's that seemed to be reliable were on my old Losi, I've never bothered looking at other solutions.... to put it another way (maybe a little tenuous), but the 416 won two IFMAR worlds with those CVD's up front...

HiH
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:56 PM
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I had the same issue last weekend when i was assembling mine. Make sure you are using the right bushings, there are 2 types that are VERY close in size, the other thing double check for burrs (there weren't any on mine) on the teeny tiny ones. Once i had the correct bushings in place things were super smooth even when tightened down.

The other thing i found was that I couldn't fit the correct number of shims (1x3mm) infront of the rear arms ... i tried just about every permutation and i couldn't do it. can somoen take a pic of their spacers in front of the rear arms for me?



Originally Posted by ldivinag
so... got my 417 tonite (*super duper price).

took about 10 hours. and still not complete but got about 80% done.

now, about the steering. looking at the manual, step 8 page 7.

1. shims are silver and spacers are blue anodized, right?

2. right now, without a servo and just moving the steering by hand, the 2 screws BA1 that goes into steering bridge BB20 will loosen up after a few cranks. if i tighten them down, it binds. it seems that there needs to be a shim on the top, not just a the bottom of BB20... right?


thanks... now for sleep... lol...


one more thing... no other way to mount the battery besides using tape (either double sided or actual batt tape)???
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:25 PM
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Does anyone know if the 417 diff rings will fit on the tamiya aluminum diff joints for the ff03?

The 417 has 2 flat spots on the rings, but I cant tell if the ff03 alum diff has 2 notches or not (from pics) and if the diameter fits. I have neither of the parts to compare.

Thanks
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Old 06-03-2011, 08:52 PM
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Default Tweaked car?

Just finished assembling the 417 and noticed that, when the shock preloads are the same, there is unequal ride height left to right by approx 0.5mm, which is giving me a tweaked car.

The only way to rectify is by preloading the battery side shocks much more than the ones on the other side. Now the ride height is equal and there's no more tweak.

What could be causing this? Also what would be the drawbacks of running the car the way it is right now as explained above?

Anyone experience this?
thx
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by YmeBP
I had the same issue last weekend when i was assembling mine. Make sure you are using the right bushings, there are 2 types that are VERY close in size, the other thing double check for burrs (there weren't any on mine) on the teeny tiny ones. Once i had the correct bushings in place things were super smooth even when tightened down.

The other thing i found was that I couldn't fit the correct number of shims (1x3mm) infront of the rear arms ... i tried just about every permutation and i couldn't do it. can somoen take a pic of their spacers in front of the rear arms for me?
Tory, best thing to do is get however many shims you want on the setup sheet side, and then fill the other side up with small shims until the play is right.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:34 PM
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what i eventually did on mine was i noticed that i needed to add enough shims to the cross bar is flushed with the steering arms.

now, it's solid tight and it turns easily...
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mhavlena
Just finished assembling the 417 and noticed that, when the shock preloads are the same, there is unequal ride height left to right by approx 0.5mm, which is giving me a tweaked car.

The only way to rectify is by preloading the battery side shocks much more than the ones on the other side. Now the ride height is equal and there's no more tweak.

What could be causing this? Also what would be the drawbacks of running the car the way it is right now as explained above?

Anyone experience this?
thx
Simple answer, no drawbacks, IMO.

Double check your shock lengths, and make sure all the holes are right on the arms (trust me, done that one..). Also check the suspension blocks/hinge pins to make sure there are no bends.

If it's still out, it's most likely either a little bit of weight balance out, or a little bit of tweak in the chassis plate. You might be able to solve it with a bit of a re-jig on the electrics, or utilise the "push down on shock towers when tightening top deck" technique. However, personally, anything up to a full turn difference on the spring collars is fine, as this means that each tyre is getting equal loading... I put that above equal ride-height in the scheme of setup.

My 417 tends to run between 1/4 and 1/2 turns different on the rear (front is norma equal), and never have a problem with tweak. Bear in mind this is done with an MIP tweak board, so it's pretty close to being spot on.

HiH
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