T.O.P Racing's Rebel 1/12th scale
#1201
The speedo is screwed down through the chassis. The chassis is full 2.5mm where the screws run through. Also the speedo sits on top of the chassis, just where the internals hang below the aluminum case is where the chassis is pocketed. I run only the Lrp Flow which is what is in the pictures. Thanks Ea yes the D4 was not approved in time for the Worlds.
#1202
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Hey yea guys the chassis was cut to replace the plastic bottom of the case. The pocket that the internals of the speedo sit in is about 2mm in depth. Flex analysis was almost identical to stock once the speedo was tightened down. It works well and the speedo ends up only being 11mm tall. I don't run a booster or Rx pack. Also, I use associated r5 steering blocks. Hope this helps. Any other questions just ask. Thanks
What is needed to run the R5 steering blocks? So far on my car I have the T.O.P. stock steering with the optional threaded axle stubs. What is the advantage of the different steering blocks.
Also, to anyone in general, what size is the washers for the upper arm hinge pin and where do I get them? With just building this thing and setting it up on my table, I have had the little clips pop off more than once on me. I can't see them lasting long on the track.
#1204
Tech Adept
#1205
Tech Apprentice
...Also, to anyone in general, what size is the washers for the upper arm hinge pin and where do I get them? With just building this thing and setting it up on my table, I have had the little clips pop off more than once on me. I can't see them lasting long on the track.
Denney
#1207
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Not to turn a TOP thread into an LRP thread, but this is where the convo started...
Donny, if you're willing to say, were you running prototype software on your FLOW that allowed you to forgo voltage boosting for the rest of the electronics? Per LRP's recent website post:
"1/12 driver that are using the LRP Flow can be looking forward to a first ever. There will be a class specific firmware for your fast and lightweight RC models in the future. In close cooperation with the drivers, we were able to work out the specifics and have tested the prototype version at the WC final. The availability of the new v2.2 Onroad 1/12 firmware is still to be determined. But the waiting will be worth it for sure."
I hope they release it! An integrated 1s ESC from LRP is a nice option.
And to haul it back to the TOP side, Donny's World's car from the PetitRC site. No setup sheet. Yet...
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/top/...mee2014100608/
Donny, if you're willing to say, were you running prototype software on your FLOW that allowed you to forgo voltage boosting for the rest of the electronics? Per LRP's recent website post:
"1/12 driver that are using the LRP Flow can be looking forward to a first ever. There will be a class specific firmware for your fast and lightweight RC models in the future. In close cooperation with the drivers, we were able to work out the specifics and have tested the prototype version at the WC final. The availability of the new v2.2 Onroad 1/12 firmware is still to be determined. But the waiting will be worth it for sure."
I hope they release it! An integrated 1s ESC from LRP is a nice option.
And to haul it back to the TOP side, Donny's World's car from the PetitRC site. No setup sheet. Yet...
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/top/...mee2014100608/
#1208
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Not to turn a TOP thread into an LRP thread, but this is where the convo started...
Donny, if you're willing to say, were you running prototype software on your FLOW that allowed you to forgo voltage boosting for the rest of the electronics? Per LRP's recent website post:
Donny, if you're willing to say, were you running prototype software on your FLOW that allowed you to forgo voltage boosting for the rest of the electronics? Per LRP's recent website post:
I have done this with both the original 1.4 firmware as well as the newer 4.7 firmware, FYI. No issues with either.
EDIT: You can also look at pictures of Olly Jefferies 12th from Worlds and see the same thing: http://events.redrc.net/2014/10/chas...lly-jefferies/
- Chris H
Last edited by LloydLoar; 10-28-2014 at 01:26 PM. Reason: said year when I meant six months, sorry
#1209
I was not using the prototype software at the Worlds, I have been running 4.0. I like it, but I plan on trying another version soon, probably the 12th scale specific one. I'm not sure but I think Olly Jefferies was running the new 12th scale version. As far as rx pack or booster, it is not recommended but it can be done. I have been running it this way for about 2 years now. I'll get my setup up there once I get a chance I'll summarize it below.
-1.5dg Camber
-6dg Caster
-3mm ride everywhere
-1.5mm pod droop above ride height
-asc. .020" front springs-neutral
-Top Black side springs barely touching
-15K Kyosho grease in tubes and front pins
-41mm front/42mm rear BSR blues (kinda big, low traction)
-50wt in shock/Top copper center
-165mm front width, 171mm rear
i'll get my speedo setup on here too when i get my hands on it. LMK if there anything else specific you need to know.
-1.5dg Camber
-6dg Caster
-3mm ride everywhere
-1.5mm pod droop above ride height
-asc. .020" front springs-neutral
-Top Black side springs barely touching
-15K Kyosho grease in tubes and front pins
-41mm front/42mm rear BSR blues (kinda big, low traction)
-50wt in shock/Top copper center
-165mm front width, 171mm rear
i'll get my speedo setup on here too when i get my hands on it. LMK if there anything else specific you need to know.
#1210
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
I was not using the prototype software at the Worlds, I have been running 4.0. I like it, but I plan on trying another version soon, probably the 12th scale specific one. I'm not sure but I think Olly Jefferies was running the new 12th scale version. As far as rx pack or booster, it is not recommended but it can be done. I have been running it this way for about 2 years now. I'll get my setup up there once I get a chance I'll summarize it below.
-1.5dg Camber
-6dg Caster
-3mm ride everywhere
-1.5mm pod droop above ride height
-asc. .020" front springs-neutral
-Top Black side springs barely touching
-15K Kyosho grease in tubes and front pins
-41mm front/42mm rear BSR blues (kinda big, low traction)
-50wt in shock/Top copper center
-165mm front width, 171mm rear
i'll get my speedo setup on here too when i get my hands on it. LMK if there anything else specific you need to know.
-1.5dg Camber
-6dg Caster
-3mm ride everywhere
-1.5mm pod droop above ride height
-asc. .020" front springs-neutral
-Top Black side springs barely touching
-15K Kyosho grease in tubes and front pins
-41mm front/42mm rear BSR blues (kinda big, low traction)
-50wt in shock/Top copper center
-165mm front width, 171mm rear
i'll get my speedo setup on here too when i get my hands on it. LMK if there anything else specific you need to know.
It looks like the r5 steering blocks are 10 mm in height, which is the same overall height as the normal TOP steering blocks (6 mm) plus the 4 mm of shims recommended in the build (when using the TOP steering blocks.) However, the r5 blocks seem to bind on the upper and lower arms if I don't put any sort of shims underneath and above them. Should I not be worried?
#1211
Tech Regular
Hey guys, new TOP rebel 12 owner here. I just picked up the car a few weeks ago, and ran it through a race at our Local club track. I'm completely new to pan cars, and I was wondering how are some of the methods you guys adjust the diff? I think I may have gone a bit too tight, I had a weird push on initial turn in off throttle, and the outside hub bearing facing the adjusting nut, is completely shot. Feels like a bearing cracked as it is gritty as hell and there is lots of slop. Most ball diffs I've encountered usually has some sort of spring and or thrust bearing for tension and side load. This car has neither and that diff adjusting nut puts tension on the inner race bearing. Something these bearing are not designed to do. I wonder if there is a tapered bearing this small........ that'd be cool.
#1212
Hey guys, new TOP rebel 12 owner here. I just picked up the car a few weeks ago, and ran it through a race at our Local club track. I'm completely new to pan cars, and I was wondering how are some of the methods you guys adjust the diff? I think I may have gone a bit too tight, I had a weird push on initial turn in off throttle, and the outside hub bearing facing the adjusting nut, is completely shot. Feels like a bearing cracked as it is gritty as hell and there is lots of slop. Most ball diffs I've encountered usually has some sort of spring and or thrust bearing for tension and side load. This car has neither and that diff adjusting nut puts tension on the inner race bearing. Something these bearing are not designed to do. I wonder if there is a tapered bearing this small........ that'd be cool.
#1213
Tech Regular
Cool! I think I really just tightened the diff too much. I'll recheck the diff using that method, and see what happens. thanks!
#1214
Tech Master
iTrader: (44)
If anyone is interested I will have 2.5mm top rebel chassis ready to ship on Weds. These are a solid replacement chassis with no cut outs for the cells.
PM me or email me [email protected] for details.
Monti
PM me or email me [email protected] for details.
Monti
#1215
If anyone is interested I will have 2.5mm top rebel chassis ready to ship on Weds. These are a solid replacement chassis with no cut outs for the cells.
PM me or email me [email protected] for details.
Monti
PM me or email me [email protected] for details.
Monti