Aitutaki

in addition: i did not use shims for the M-06 before.
which one should i order ?
which one are the most needed?
3mm , 4mm , ....

thanks for your help.

ruebiracer

I have the same problem!
Really curious about the rear setup on the R. As it is not my favorite regarding colours, I donīt want to effort buying a whole kit at the moment. But I really would like to try the R setup and the clamp on weights, as well as the new lower damper fixing. I hope one day Tamiya will give better advice to combine all the different setups on the M06. So how to combine the new lower fixing with e.g. the new carbon stay in the rear, which has moved hole positions compared to the old carbon stay. But maybe itīs already in the R manual...

Regarding shimming: I only shim light, but with some 3mm shims for the suspension arms and some 5mmīs for the wheel axles youīre prepared to try.

BR,
Matthias

Raman

iTrader: (94)

You need 3mm for axles / suspension

5 mm for drive shaft

Raman

iTrader: (94)

M06R is still not in stock in the US... And the part number for the weights is not listed. What I don't like is that you have I use them with the Alu rear uprights. I don't like alu up rights and knuckles.. Those are the parts that receive the forces of a crash. Prefer plastic that can be replaced, cheaply.

I was at an indoor track tuning my car for a race tomorrow. It started the day very unstable.. I was finally able to get it to drive right again. Some of the changes I made were to remove sway bars completely, looks like the car doesn't need it. I'm addition I went back to yellow springs up front and red in rear with 35wt oil all around. I also stopped being lazy and removed gear diff and installed ball diff.

WOW! What a difference! The car accelerates much better and is much more r
Responsive.

Like the rest of you, I'm curious about the rear weights. So I added a 7g lead weight on each arm for traction. Did not notice an increase in rear traction, al though I don't have a rear traction issue

rhodopsine

Rear weight are 11.5g. With the TRF shocks on the new shock mount, the car sits at about 5mm in the rear, no droop at all. with the front, I found I needed to put one o-ring as spacer in the shock to get the droop I want.

I haven't tried the car yet, so I can't comment on the usefulness of the extra parts.

Martin Paradis

Aitutaki

Thank you guys for the feedback.
I also ordered a m06R Kit from my local Dealer now
Unfortunately it will be shipped in the 2nd week of february ...

ruebiracer

Raman,
fully agree with you on the uprights. Not needed, a 417 has also plastic ones.
So you went from serial gear diff to TA03 ball diff I guess?
Iīm in the meantime stuck to my 3Racing gear diff. But also started with serial and then Ta03 ball diff. I guess if your acceleration is better now, your ball diff is adjusted a little heavier than the gear diff?

Thanks for the weights, maybe I have to try some extra weights like Raman on the plastic knuckles, to see the effect. Can you confirm, that the rear piston rods are 2mm longer, like in the Pro Kit?
5mm ground clearance in rear with nearly no droop, sounds like my actual setup.
But if you had the kit setup for the R regarding oil and pistons, that would really be helpful!

BR,
Matthias

rhodopsine

The shock rods are longer in the rear, but I didn't use them. I instead used TRF touring shocks with the option carbon shock towers (54362 and 54361 ).

Set-up is 400 cst oil front and rear, 3 holes 1.3 mm piston rear and 3 holes 1.0mm piston front, Red black springs up front and yellow black springs rear. Same suggested toe and camber as with the regular M06Pro

Martin

ruebiracer

Thank you Martin,
thatīs some really helpful info. Seems that the shock setup is weaker in rear for the R-version. I did find the Pro setup always a little to stiff.
Interesting also, that you used the new 4 hole carbon stay with the shorter piston rod! Did the manual give an advice when using the carbon stays?
Just asking, why you didnīt give the longer rod a try...

Have fun with your "R"!
Matthias

rhodopsine

Since I run no droop in the rear, the standard length shafts allowed me to do so without messing with limiters. also, my TRF shafts were TiNi coated while the shafts coming with the R are not.

You are right, the setup for the R is quite a bit softer than the Pro.

Martin

Raman

iTrader: (94)

NEIN! the TA03 ball diff is out dated and very heavy. You need to use this one, from M05!

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54194

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Are you running the TRF M chassis dampers or touring TRF?

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I raced three heats today against M03 and M05. I improved a lot by the A main, finished 4th. What I found interesting was that the M05's had more top end speed than me. I guess the silver can is slightly faster than a 21.5 brushless. In addition I was running 55D Pit Shimizu tyres and they were running 60D m chassis.

ruebiracer

Ha ha, that I understood at once!
I didnīt try the newer one, as most of the M05 guys state that there can be some durability issues on that. But sure, should be a bit lighter, and can be fixed with some TRF parts, the mini thread says.
Anyway, I switched to the 3R gear diff and trust on the reliability and low maintenance.

Congratulations Raman, that must be some really nice driving and well setup M06, to place 4th behind the M05īs running on 55D tires against the others with big 60īs! From what Iīd assume, I think youīre right that 21T brushless is slightly slower than a good silvercan in addition.
Keep on the good work!
Matthias

Radi0Flyer

My shelf queen.





I have the 1:1 so I had to do it.





Sean