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Old 12-01-2015, 09:43 AM   #1771
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Originally Posted by foampervert View Post
Put the front wheels on the rear axle...

Wink!
duh. where's the facepalm smiley?

In my defence, I didn't have my morning coffee when I wrote that...
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Old 12-01-2015, 10:09 AM   #1772
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For racers who run the TCS in the U.S., Tamiya has come up with specific motor rule for Mini Class in 2016.

"You MUST use the REEDY 21.5 MACH 3 motor for this class. (Part #253) Note: YOU MAY ONLY use the included rotor and stator. The output shaft has the number 273 number etched on it for easy identification during post tech inspection."

There is no motor rule like this for F1 or GT3.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:51 PM   #1773
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Originally Posted by hprt View Post
duh. where's the facepalm smiley?

In my defence, I didn't have my morning coffee when I wrote that...
LOL. I neglected that little nugget of info, but yes, put them on the rears to remove the CA glue.. I facepalm myself at least 12 times daily...
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:54 PM   #1774
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Originally Posted by MD View Post
For racers who run the TCS in the U.S., Tamiya has come up with specific motor rule for Mini Class in 2016.

"You MUST use the REEDY 21.5 MACH 3 motor for this class. (Part #253) Note: YOU MAY ONLY use the included rotor and stator. The output shaft has the number 273 number etched on it for easy identification during post tech inspection."

There is no motor rule like this for F1 or GT3.
Boo Tamiya. I understand the thought process, but practical application won't work. I can see this chasing guys off to other classes of racing and Mini dying off. If they sell the RTR kits w/ the Silver can, why not make THAT the motor of choice?
The handful of Mini's we get at our local track will stick w/ the old rules. None of us will ever attend a TCS event anyway.
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:48 AM   #1775
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Silvercan motors we're not exactly fair. There were many who cheated by using tricks to modify the motors

That's why they changed to brushless. However not all 21.5s are the same. Ever since blinky classes started the ESC and Motor manufacturers scrambled to come up with the new thing to make you buy their product. First there were high rpm versions of the motors, when that was not enough, some motors manufacturers just label 21.5 on what ever they want. There are no set guidelines as to how many precise KVs at 21.5 should put out.

So I understand the reasoning.

As for people leaving the class.. The same was said initially when the switch was made to brushless and yet the class continues. Everyone will kick and scream initially and then they will buy the motor.
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:03 PM   #1776
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Silvercan motors we're not exactly fair. There were many who cheated by using tricks to modify the motors

That's why they changed to brushless. However not all 21.5s are the same. Ever since blinky classes started the ESC and Motor manufacturers scrambled to come up with the new thing to make you buy their product. First there were high rpm versions of the motors, when that was not enough, some motors manufacturers just label 21.5 on what ever they want. There are no set guidelines as to how many precise KVs at 21.5 should put out.

So I understand the reasoning.

As for people leaving the class.. The same was said initially when the switch was made to brushless and yet the class continues. Everyone will kick and scream initially and then they will buy the motor.
I think your reasoning is sound. My problem is that the powers at Tamiya change their mind from year-to-year on classes, motors, tires, etc.
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:53 PM   #1777
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Fred who makes up the rules gets grief from all the racers and he tries to process it all and make accommodations.

So believe or not, these changes came about, because of complaints by "us" and we are to blame.

These forums are great for information but they run rampant with people who want to flex their muscles and egos.

For example local tracks are constantly disappearing. Why because some guy decided to complain about a track, because it has poor traction, or boards are too hard. His words spread like wildfire by bored memebers jumping onto the band wagon. Then the owner gets fed up and closes the track. The same guy will complain.. Man there are no local tracks anymore.. This sucks, I'm getting out of his hobby.

This is the problem
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:40 PM   #1778
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hello
I didn't go back read all the threads
I am getting ready to rebuilt and racing this weekend ..
any of you guy got a magic carpet set up I can use...lol thanks
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Old 01-07-2016, 05:45 AM   #1779
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hello
I didn't go back read all the threads
I am getting ready to rebuilt and racing this weekend ..
any of you guy got a magic carpet set up I can use...lol thanks
I built my M06R per the instruction manual. Then I added 1/2 degree of negative camber to the rear wheels. Haven't touched a thing since then and it works great on our carpet track.
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Old 01-07-2016, 06:37 PM   #1780
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I built my M06R per the instruction manual. Then I added 1/2 degree of negative camber to the rear wheels. Haven't touched a thing since then and it works great on our carpet track.
Thanks
any more set up?
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Old 01-20-2016, 02:58 PM   #1781
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Default m-06 setup

can anyone email me a really good M-06 asphalt setup please
I have the m-06R need help thanks
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:02 AM   #1782
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Yesterday I ran for the first time at the new 702 indoor race way. I showed up thinking its a local club race, turned out with was the Las Vegas championship lol. Yikes.

I was the only M06R and the heat that I ran in, had 2 M05s and one guy that was running a TLR 1/16 4 wheel drive! ahh the class did say Mini 2WD. Anyhow..

First heat I was a disaster, since I showed up to track right before racing started. It was my first run ever on carpet so I was not used to the grippy steering. Dual Rate was too high. On the 3rd lap I took my eye off of the car and it went straight into the wall... I noticed something was off and could not figure out what.. so I finished the race in last. When I took the car off the track, I realised I had broken the left rear body mount! huh?

When the body was pushed back by impact, it broke the mount.. never would have seen that coming. I checked the rest of the car, front steering etc.. everything "appeared" fine. Later at home I would discover the the front right C hub was partially broken!

Since I did not have the rear body mount pieces in my spares, so I had to get creative. (incidentally you have to buy 2 parts sprues to get the parts.. one of them includes a new chassis.. Thanks Tamiya!!)

I then put the car on the set up station and noticed it was off at all four corners.. i set front back to 0 camber, rear at -1. At the advice of a friend, I installed the stiff front stabilizer. It took me a while to recall how it all went together lol!

tyres: I was running pit shimizu slicks 40 in front and 36 in rear (sweep pink inserts). Since grip was not an issue, I stuck with the same shores and only put compound on the rear tyre.. left the front alone.

Shocks: Rear I am using TRF damper TC version with longer piston that comes with Pro / R Spec. Reason: The combination of M chassis damper, pro / r spec longer piston, Carbon shock tower and R spec lower shock mount.. does not work. The damper is not long enough, so you can't set rear ride height above 3mm with 55D tyres. The longer shock body however works.

front Im using M Chassis TRF short damper
Front: oil 60 / yellow springs
Rear: oil 60 / blue springs

There were so many heats that by the time the next round started, it was close to 2 hours later. During this heat I started out in second and held second for the first few laps until I was passed by the Losi awd and maintained 3rd / or second to last lol.. for the entire race. I tried my best to catch the M05 came close a couple of times but no cookie.

The car was very consistent at this point and I was pretty happy with it. Unfortunately I did not have time to stick around for the final round, since I did not think it was going to be big race weekend.
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:10 AM   #1783
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hey guys I'm thinking about going to a TCS event in May and race in the Mini class. I'm not a racer and this would be my first on-road race and I've been looking over the TCS rules and have some questions.

Does the stock Tamiya ESC that comes with the M-Class kits work the Reedy Mach 3 sensored motor? I mean the motor ain't cheap, it's $90 so it'd be great if I don't have to buy a separate ESC.

So for a TCS event, every part on the car has to be Tamiya brand? like I can't have 3Racing oil shocks installed or have a generic steering rod?

What are the LiPo battery options nowadays for the M-chassis? It's pretty hard to find a rounded LiPo battery, the ones I found so far are Wolfpack and Venom. I'm slightly confused by the battery rules, it says you cannot grind the battery slot to fit a rectangular battery, but does that mean I can still use a rectangular battery as long as it fits inside the stock battery space?

Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:02 AM   #1784
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Hi there,

The M06 doesn't have the same lipo fit issues as M05. All standard hard case lipo fit. I personally run a short lipo because it gives me the option to move the battery forward and back for traction.

The ESC, depends which one your car came with? If it's the TBLE-02S then yes.

TCS: I believe the oil shocks do have to be Tamiya. However steering linkage, screws etc are not an issue, unless you go to Japan for the Nationals
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:07 AM   #1785
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TCS rules require a ROAR-approved ESC. The Tamiya ESC is not ROAR-approved. (But the race organizers might make an exception for their own ESC!)
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