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Old 09-02-2010, 04:01 PM   #31
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Racing (and winning) in VTA with a Kawada SV-10 Alcyon - which was released in 1998. The class isn't as competitive as it was this past winter, but the car runs great on our carpet track.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...0/ai_n8814319/

Lots of option parts and parts gathered from other cars (notably the Photon and Tamiya 416).

Saddle Pack LiPo and proud of it!

Glad to hear you brought that one back. I was going to do VTA or RcGT at MSI. You gave me a set of your worn vta tires last year if you remember.
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:27 AM   #32
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Thanks for the explanation. I'm still just trying to stay off the boards and I have TONS of street weapon parts as well as a place where i have my belts manufactured since no one can seem to get rears. I dont hold out though. I help other street weapon people when i can. I'm gonna keep what I got and put a nice Speed Passion Cirtix setup in it. Never tried brushless. Hopefully it eliminates my frequent motor maintanance problems. It seems right when I get my driving up to snuff, the motor starts to go.
Same with me here, i cleaned up the Kawada Sv-10 Alcyon parts at my local store and bought some important parts from japan. i have tons of spares and am willing to sell to other Alcyon owners who need it at the price i got them at.
You gotta try brushless man. the motor is way faster and also very smooth. you can easliy get 20 minutes + of runtime with a 11.5R motor. With brushed motor, the heat generated by the motor with a lipo will heat up your ESC and lipo too. This is speaking from my experience .so a brushless is a really good idea. the motor stays wayy cooler. The New Tekin RS pro ESC is a good choice cause you can tweak the software yourself.
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:03 AM   #33
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That's amazing.. I remember when I was a kid (I'm 24 now), everyone always commented on the Street Weapon's handling prowess. It does handle great, it's just built like a tank compared to recent plate chassis. I can get it to turn and that's what keeps me wanting to continue using it.
i kept a lot of the old magazines from 97 to 2000 and lots of them have SW articles in them, if you want i could pdf them and send it to you.
one thing about these older cars is they a little harder to work on. for instance the Kawada alcyon doesnt have any droop screws in the arms, so to adjust droop you need to take of the shocks and lengthen or shorten the ends. Then the shoocks use plastic spacers. i have 2 kawadas and one i upgraded with recent TRF shocks, but the other i am using the originals...certain things you have to live with the old cars..by the what version is your SW? the IWC?
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:10 AM   #34
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i kept a lot of the old magazines from 97 to 2000 and lots of them have SW articles in them, if you want i could pdf them and send it to you.
one thing about these older cars is they a little harder to work on. for instance the Kawada alcyon doesnt have any droop screws in the arms, so to adjust droop you need to take of the shocks and lengthen or shorten the ends. Then the shoocks use plastic spacers. i have 2 kawadas and one i upgraded with recent TRF shocks, but the other i am using the originals...certain things you have to live with the old cars..by the what version is your SW? the IWC?
I got a few IWC street weapons with the graphite parts. One old school IWC coming in pretty soon and several parts to make 2 or more normal SW's. All of them have the hop up pack installed with bearing steering, better springs, and better wheels. I would LOVE to have some scans of Street Weapon articles from when I was younger. Perhaps I could learn a thing or two!
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:44 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by jhwnissan View Post
Glad to hear you brought that one back. I was going to do VTA or RcGT at MSI. You gave me a set of your worn vta tires last year if you remember.
Ah yes, I remember what you were running, and even worn VTA tires were an improvement Glad you've stuck with it!

I wonder now - which is older, the Kawada or the Street weapon?
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:03 AM   #36
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I wonder now - which is older, the Kawada or the Street weapon?
From what I've seen, the Kawada was made in '98 and the Street Weapon was made in '96 or '97 I think. Could be wrong though because they were so close together.
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:31 PM   #37
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From what I've seen, the Kawada was made in '98 and the Street Weapon was made in '96 or '97 I think. Could be wrong though because they were so close together.
the SW was released in late 1997, august i think. i have that exact article from rc car action. kawada was released in october 1998.
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:07 AM   #38
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I'm just getting back into racing and will be running a relatively modern RC12R5 that I just picked up and am trying to decide what to setup for the local VTA/Scale Spec class. I too have an SV-10 Alycon and some spares/hop-ups to rebuild it with. Plus TA02/3/4 and TB01/2 cars and a pretty much stock HPI Pro 3. What to, what to do... Biggest concern is parts of course.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:28 AM   #39
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I'm just getting back into racing and will be running a relatively modern RC12R5 that I just picked up and am trying to decide what to setup for the local VTA/Scale Spec class. I too have an SV-10 Alycon and some spares/hop-ups to rebuild it with. Plus TA02/3/4 and TB01/2 cars and a pretty much stock HPI Pro 3. What to, what to do... Biggest concern is parts of course.
forget about the ta02 and tao3, they traction roll like hell and their drivetrain isnt efficient. the ta04 is ok, but SV-10 alcyon drive train is very efficeint, even up against today's cars.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:53 AM   #40
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I still run the HPI Pro3 but am still using brushed NiMh. I haven't been able to find a LiPo that fits without modification - it seems that they are too long or interfere with the layshaft pulley. To use a brushless (the Tekin Red Line at least) you will need to do some grinding to allow adjustment for gearing and to plug in the sensor. Maybe other manufacturers will work without modification, I don't know. Parts are almost non-existant.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:55 AM   #41
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I still run the HPI Pro3 but am still using brushed NiMh. I haven't been able to find a LiPo that fits - it seems that they are too long on interfere with the layshaft pulley. To use a brushless (the Tekin Red Line at least) you will need to do some grinding to allow adjustment for gearing and to plug in the sensor. Maybe other manufacturers will work without modification, I don't know.
try removing the lipo upper casing, if you cant remove the lower casing too, i bet it will go in. or try to get old style stick pack lipos.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:45 AM   #42
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Anyone still racing anything vintage?
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:04 AM   #43
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I have a couple HPI RS4 Pro2's that we (my son and I) race in "Outlaw" VTA once in a while - and we also have a couple of circa 1991 RC10L's to run On-Road w/ when we have time (We haven't run them for almost 2 years, but the still sit pretty much "race ready" - we run them in Camarillo CA with "Vintage" TOJ Bodies in a 1c Open ESC / 10.5 class when they get run. (Also have a 235mm vintage HPI "Roadstar" that gets run in that class) - I have to say, it's a kick to run some of the Vintage Chassis' w/ modern power...
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:13 AM   #44
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I have to say, it's a kick to run some of the Vintage Chassis' w/ modern power...
Isn't that the truth? My wife drove her VTA Losi Street Weapon with a simple venom lipo and speedpassion setup. Whatever inefficiencies were there in the old chassis just went away. She was amazing and ended up 4th in the points championship. I still love old chassis.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:06 AM   #45
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I have a TA02 with the cen belt conversion that can get around the track
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