Stronger diffs for TC3?
08-07-2010, 06:49 PM
#1
Stronger diffs for TC3?
Hey guys, I have a TC3 with the Traxxas Velineon brushless system in it. It's got plenty of torque and speed, (gps confirmed 33.1 mph). But problem is, it has ball diffs. I have to run them tight to keep them from slipping like crazy. But by doing that it handles like crap. The rear end just slides out while turning way too easily.
I have already destroyed 1 rear diff. The thing got so hot it melted the diff rings into the outdrives, which then threw them off center and it started to eat the ring gear, and so on.
When I went to the LHS to get a new rear diff, they didn't have any TC3 ones. So we looked through the Associated bins, and found a B44 diff. The whole thing in a package. It was different, but looked like it should work. It has longer metal outdrives, the rings are just circles without the D shape, the gear was a different material, but the same exact gear, and the thrust bearing nut was completely different.
So of course the combination of all the different elements made it a bit tricky to get it in there, but I made it work. All I had to do was cut the thrust bearing spring in half, after 2 hours of trying everything else.
And I have run a few packs through it and it seems to be fine, just still handles funny cause the diffs are tight.
What I am getting at here, is there anything else I can use instead of a ball diff? Not a spool, that would just make it handle worse. Like are there any normal gear style diffs that could maybe fit in the TC3? Or maybe some really strong ball diff?
Hopefully someone knows something I don't.
I have already destroyed 1 rear diff. The thing got so hot it melted the diff rings into the outdrives, which then threw them off center and it started to eat the ring gear, and so on.
When I went to the LHS to get a new rear diff, they didn't have any TC3 ones. So we looked through the Associated bins, and found a B44 diff. The whole thing in a package. It was different, but looked like it should work. It has longer metal outdrives, the rings are just circles without the D shape, the gear was a different material, but the same exact gear, and the thrust bearing nut was completely different.
So of course the combination of all the different elements made it a bit tricky to get it in there, but I made it work. All I had to do was cut the thrust bearing spring in half, after 2 hours of trying everything else.
And I have run a few packs through it and it seems to be fine, just still handles funny cause the diffs are tight.
What I am getting at here, is there anything else I can use instead of a ball diff? Not a spool, that would just make it handle worse. Like are there any normal gear style diffs that could maybe fit in the TC3? Or maybe some really strong ball diff?
Hopefully someone knows something I don't.
08-07-2010, 10:47 PM
#2
Get the lightened steel outdrives
Hey guys, I have a TC3 with the Traxxas Velineon brushless system in it. It's got plenty of torque and speed, (gps confirmed 33.1 mph). But problem is, it has ball diffs. I have to run them tight to keep them from slipping like crazy. But by doing that it handles like crap. The rear end just slides out while turning way too easily.
I have already destroyed 1 rear diff. The thing got so hot it melted the diff rings into the outdrives, which then threw them off center and it started to eat the ring gear, and so on.
When I went to the LHS to get a new rear diff, they didn't have any TC3 ones. So we looked through the Associated bins, and found a B44 diff. The whole thing in a package. It was different, but looked like it should work. It has longer metal outdrives, the rings are just circles without the D shape, the gear was a different material, but the same exact gear, and the thrust bearing nut was completely different.
So of course the combination of all the different elements made it a bit tricky to get it in there, but I made it work. All I had to do was cut the thrust bearing spring in half, after 2 hours of trying everything else.
And I have run a few packs through it and it seems to be fine, just still handles funny cause the diffs are tight.
What I am getting at here, is there anything else I can use instead of a ball diff? Not a spool, that would just make it handle worse. Like are there any normal gear style diffs that could maybe fit in the TC3? Or maybe some really strong ball diff?
Hopefully someone knows something I don't.
I have already destroyed 1 rear diff. The thing got so hot it melted the diff rings into the outdrives, which then threw them off center and it started to eat the ring gear, and so on.
When I went to the LHS to get a new rear diff, they didn't have any TC3 ones. So we looked through the Associated bins, and found a B44 diff. The whole thing in a package. It was different, but looked like it should work. It has longer metal outdrives, the rings are just circles without the D shape, the gear was a different material, but the same exact gear, and the thrust bearing nut was completely different.
So of course the combination of all the different elements made it a bit tricky to get it in there, but I made it work. All I had to do was cut the thrust bearing spring in half, after 2 hours of trying everything else.
And I have run a few packs through it and it seems to be fine, just still handles funny cause the diffs are tight.
What I am getting at here, is there anything else I can use instead of a ball diff? Not a spool, that would just make it handle worse. Like are there any normal gear style diffs that could maybe fit in the TC3? Or maybe some really strong ball diff?
Hopefully someone knows something I don't.
08-08-2010, 03:18 PM
#6
As far as one way's go, if i remember correctly they allow the motor to drive the diff, but the brakes don't affect that diff. Right? So reverse wouldn't work so well with a one way.
08-08-2010, 04:06 PM
#7
Here's what you need. They are plenty strong enough for that system and you should be able to run the diffs with a normal setting.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNZ98&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNZ98&P=7
08-08-2010, 05:10 PM
#8
Basically you're saying as long as I use steel outdrives, I should be fine? Cause if thats the case, I've already got them on the new rear diff. Problem is with the steel outdrives, they use a thrust bearing nut holder that is supposed to lock into the slots on the outdrives. Instead of the recessed nut that sits in the plastic outdrives. Well if you use it the way they want you too, the screw never reaches the nut.
Long story short once i got it to work, i am now limited on my camber adjustment. The cv shaft goes into the drive cup enough that it just barely makes contact with the screw head if i put a few degrees of neg camber on it. I'm no expert of on-roads, but that can't be healthy, so it's pretty much set at 0-1 degree right now to avoid that.
Long story short once i got it to work, i am now limited on my camber adjustment. The cv shaft goes into the drive cup enough that it just barely makes contact with the screw head if i put a few degrees of neg camber on it. I'm no expert of on-roads, but that can't be healthy, so it's pretty much set at 0-1 degree right now to avoid that.
08-08-2010, 06:15 PM
#9
Basically you're saying as long as I use steel outdrives, I should be fine? Cause if thats the case, I've already got them on the new rear diff. Problem is with the steel outdrives, they use a thrust bearing nut holder that is supposed to lock into the slots on the outdrives. Instead of the recessed nut that sits in the plastic outdrives. Well if you use it the way they want you too, the screw never reaches the nut.
Long story short once i got it to work, i am now limited on my camber adjustment. The cv shaft goes into the drive cup enough that it just barely makes contact with the screw head if i put a few degrees of neg camber on it. I'm no expert of on-roads, but that can't be healthy, so it's pretty much set at 0-1 degree right now to avoid that.
Long story short once i got it to work, i am now limited on my camber adjustment. The cv shaft goes into the drive cup enough that it just barely makes contact with the screw head if i put a few degrees of neg camber on it. I'm no expert of on-roads, but that can't be healthy, so it's pretty much set at 0-1 degree right now to avoid that.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2869&P=7
08-08-2010, 06:32 PM
#10
Tech Adept
I just happened to stumble across your thread.
you can find parts for older TC3/TC4 at losi / associated parts house.
I did a quick search and they have the steel diff kits / parts.
Good luck
you can find parts for older TC3/TC4 at losi / associated parts house.
I did a quick search and they have the steel diff kits / parts.
Good luck
08-08-2010, 06:44 PM
#11
(Disclaimer: I am not trying to be difficult, Trust me I appreciate the advice
)
Unfortunately, thats the same nut holder thing that came in the b44 diff I have. I understand how it should work, but it doesn't. If you look at the piece, the nut is closest to the screen. That side has to face the inside of the diff.
When I put it in the long outdrive, the screw doesn't reach it. If I put it in the short outdrive, it blocks the cv shaft from going in to the drive cup.
What I had to do was put it in the long outdrive, and push it all the way down, it kinda broke the nubs off, and it sunk into the outdrive enough to not be in the way.
The factory diff had just the locknut by itself, that sat into a hex shaped hole at the inner-most part of the outdrive. I have yet to find something similar.
This is the kit I used to replace the rear diff. This whole thing is in the tc3 now.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSYX5&P=7
By looking at the outdrives, they look just like the lightened ones, and have the chamfers in them.
Looking over Towers diff list, I found this.. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLW1&P=7
Its a diff from a Mini MGT. That is what I would really like to have in the car, not necessarily the mmgt one, but that design.
)Unfortunately, thats the same nut holder thing that came in the b44 diff I have. I understand how it should work, but it doesn't. If you look at the piece, the nut is closest to the screen. That side has to face the inside of the diff.
When I put it in the long outdrive, the screw doesn't reach it. If I put it in the short outdrive, it blocks the cv shaft from going in to the drive cup.
What I had to do was put it in the long outdrive, and push it all the way down, it kinda broke the nubs off, and it sunk into the outdrive enough to not be in the way.
The factory diff had just the locknut by itself, that sat into a hex shaped hole at the inner-most part of the outdrive. I have yet to find something similar.
This is the kit I used to replace the rear diff. This whole thing is in the tc3 now.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSYX5&P=7
By looking at the outdrives, they look just like the lightened ones, and have the chamfers in them.
Looking over Towers diff list, I found this.. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTLW1&P=7
Its a diff from a Mini MGT. That is what I would really like to have in the car, not necessarily the mmgt one, but that design.
08-08-2010, 06:51 PM
#12
So all in all, it appears I already have the best ball diff I can use in this thing?
08-08-2010, 06:59 PM
#13
There is this: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Associated-S...ts_Accessories
Then there is the lightweight version, but either way it should do the trick.
Then there is the lightweight version, but either way it should do the trick.
08-09-2010, 02:50 AM
#15
Ball diffs will work, I guarantee it. To have the issues you are having you can't be assembling them correctly, I don't know how else to say it. The TC3 and its ball differentials have pretty much stood the test of time and over that time people have thrown a lot more motor at them than what you are with no issues.