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Old 08-08-2010, 09:52 AM   #1
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Default What is a good starter chassis?

I am looking to buy my first 1/10 on road touring car, with the intention on racing at the local indoor (Asphalt) track I have been to a few events and seen that there are a lot of different cars running all in the same class, T2, X-Ray, TC5 and I even heard some guys discussing the differences in a EVO4 Vs. EVO5

I don't need the latest & greatest I just want to start with a "Good" car that I can learn on and that I won't out grow. My LHS mostly stocks XRay, Tamiya and Team Associated so I think I would rather stick with one of those because of over the counter parts availability

I'm just doing some research before I commit.
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:09 AM   #2
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Get a TA05 (if it's an "R" version even better) with some upgrades on it, that way you'll have a solid car easy to set up and drive. All the others are probably better cars but at a level you wouldn't appreciate as a beginner. Avoid the IFS version.
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Old 08-08-2010, 02:32 PM   #3
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I disagree about the IFS subject(I see no reason not to do it, I like how well it works on my TA05 ver.2), but agree that the TA05 series is one of the best car you can get that can really grow with you. They're good handlers, strong & reliable, & are easy to upgrade as your skills grow. Pretty much the only thing that makes me run my 416 over my '05 is because of my '05's weight(I can't get mine to weigh less than 1485 grams, while my 416 can get down to 1350, so it's easier to balance for weight & to get right to the legal minumum), it's not a big thing, but with the guys I race with, I sometimes need every edge I can get. Plus, the new Spec-R gear diff fits the 416, but not the '05(yet), so I've been runing the 416 so I can keep playing with that. Otherwise, I'd likely be running my '05 now(& it is my weapon of choice for classes like Vintage Trans-Am or GT2 in the Tamiya Championship Series)....
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:07 PM   #4
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I'm not Racing at an organized event, but I love my Ta05 IFS (not V2) Extremely stable and controllable. Of course I'm running a silver can and NIMH with a top speed of 23mph. YMMV

You could do much worse for a first car.
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:11 PM   #5
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I would suggest the xray t3r, is a good starter car and has a ton of upgrades and spare parts you can get. Also the price is pretty reasonable at $275!!!
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:33 PM   #6
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If you are running a spec class that allows 200mm wide cars, check out the OFNA JL10e. Very capable for VTA, RCGT, and the ABC TruSpec series where speeds are limited but too wide for ROAR legal 190mm TC classes. It has a fiberglass chassis and weights over 1500 grams but is only 115 to 130 online. If you want to run true TC 17.5 stock that requires a ROAR legal 190mm car, an Associated TC4 used would be your best bet as a shaft drive car is more efficient with slower stock motors. If you plan on running Mod TC or 13.56 spec than any of the belt drive cars will do well. The Xray T3R or a Hot Boddies (HPI) Cyclone S are both pretty inexpensive as is a TA-05.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:40 PM   #7
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I agree on the TA05.....disagree that this is a uncompetitive car unless you are just starting out....I think this car can compete at most club level races....so you could buy one and race for several years with cheap part prices....until you really need to spend the extra money.....heck there are even some of us that SOLD all our T3's...TC5R's and are still quite competitive with the TA05!!!

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Old 08-09-2010, 06:12 AM   #8
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The TA05 is not competitive when weight becomes and issue. There is nothing you can do about it (short of compromising on some lighter electronics, smaller batteries, etc, and that just about rules out the higher competitive classes).

That being said, I have raced my TA05 against much better machinnery (on paper) in the hands of more experienced people and gave them a really hard time and even left some behind. The car is a real weapon and its trump card is that is very easy to drive and set up and then ont he track is very consistent (at the last race I bent three hinge pins and broke one steering knuckle and I have not even noticed until after the last race). Compared with an Xray (we still have people at the track saying they hate the Xray shocks) it is just as much of a tank and a lot cheaper. Spurs are a lot easier to get and cheaper, and you can change the internal ratio of the car quite easily (using only Tamiya parts you can have about six different combinations of diff and centre pulleys which yields about five different internal ratios and without any hacking of parts - try doing that on an Xray or anything else for that matter). OK, I spent more money on mine than an Xray, because I bought al the TRF upgrades one can possibly imagine, but then again, I raced it in stock (17.5) and if you think that's slow, well, the guys at the top of the mod class (13.5) only have 3 laps on me at the best of times.

One more thing. I suggested the IFS versions be avoided as they introduce another degree of complication and a source of slop nobody needs (all the protoform legal racing bodies fit very well with the normal front shock tower). My preference is to keep everything as simple as possible.
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Old 08-10-2010, 07:27 PM   #9
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It seems like the TA05 is the most bang for the buck. I could be up & running for under $300 maybe not competitively with a stock brushed motor but i could be turning laps. where as I would barely have a TC5 or T3r roller for $300

what is the difference between the plain TA-05 Vs. TA-05 V.2 Vs. TA-05IFS.
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:05 AM   #10
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TA05 started as a conventional upright shock chassis.
IFS is "Inboard Front Suspension" where the shocks are layed down and articulation points are added.
V2 has the IFS but also a modified chassis layout.
Great car but it will take more to be competitive against some of those chassis you mentioned.
The Evo 4 and Evo 5 are great cars and can be found used for good prices. You could come very close to your $300 figure and have to put much less money into it to be competitive. In addition, you'll have no problem with Lipo battery fitment or BL motors.

Found this, thought it might help. Keep in mind that this deal is directly through Tamiya !! You might find a better deal online somewhere or used but thats a smokin good deal on a top of the line car.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/search.php?q=evo
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:10 PM   #11
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What class are you trying to run?
I agree with the rest on the ta05 (just picked up a used ta05r myself) and if you plan on running 10.5,13.5 or 17.5 I would get the new speed passion cirtix brushless combo for around 80 new to run in it.
That would be under your 300 limit and be pretty competitive.
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:15 PM   #12
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Evo IV is $230 - Tamiya Direct, http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58331

TA05R has been discontinued, http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=49418

But there are variations of TA05 version 1 and version 2 kits.

You don't need a high-end racing chassis right away. Learn on driving style, and setup first. Also, the car that your LHS carries the most parts for will be the most ideal choice.

If you going to participate at TCS (Tamiya Championship Series) oneday, it won't hurt to have a Tamiya car

Even TT01E Type R is a pretty good entry level racing kit, good for spec racing, http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58450
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:48 PM   #13
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I would also go for the TA05. I liked my X-ray but the TA05 got more Laps for me on it's first outing. At my local club the TA05 has become very popular and now is the most common car there.
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:22 PM   #14
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I'm not sure why Tamiya discontinues their kits so frequently. I got the TA05-R two years ago, and bought the following Tamiya hop-ups:

carbon shock towers - front & rear
alum. diff joints
lightweight chassis
alum. motor weight
alum. steering bellcrank


The car handled pretty neutral on carpet and asphalt, I ran Type A slicks on carpet and Type B slicks on asphalt.
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