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Old 08-09-2010, 05:17 AM   #16
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Maybe you are on it already, but never overlook the diff bolt and nut.

I have blown a few rear diff's in a tc3 with a 19t motor and I think the bolt and nut was the answer.

The nyloc part of the nut can loosen up, and/or the bolt thread can go bad = slipping diff + heat build up = bang!

hth
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
Maybe you are on it already, but never overlook the diff bolt and nut.

I have blown a few rear diff's in a tc3 with a 19t motor and I think the bolt and nut was the answer.

The nyloc part of the nut can loosen up, and/or the bolt thread can go bad = slipping diff + heat build up = bang!

hth
Always had good luck using just a tiny dab of blue threadlock on the diff screw for added insurance. I can run my diffs for a very long time without fail.
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:30 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by SloRacer1080 View Post
Hmm, just did that. What is being called a lightweight steel diff, looks like exactly what I already got. Only mine was labeled factory parts for a B44.

So all in all, it appears I already have the best ball diff I can use in this thing?
There is a spacer/shims that should go in the long side so the ears don't get ripped off, mine came with a tree of 4 different thicknesses. With both halves of the diff seated together, the nut should be snug, but no gap to the spacer. If there is still enough play for you to draw the nut in, its not spaced right. The diff bolt kit comes with the spacers. For some reason the diff rebuild kit does not. If you run the stock plastic outdrives, they will melt. The lightened steel and steel outdrives function exactly the same, just a little less mass.
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:28 PM   #19
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Hmm. Ok, so I already have the best I can get for it. I can live with that. Now to work out a couple kinks it has.

As far as assembling them correctly or not, I mean like is there even a way to assemble it wrong with it actually working? They are incredibly simple.

Mine did not come with any spacers for the nut holder, but those wouldn't have helped. The issue was the bolt not being long enough, spacers would've just made it worse.

Taking a real close look at things last night, I noticed that my right rear suspension travel is being stopped. The cv is trying to move into the outdrive, but is being stopped by the nut holder thing, or the slots in the outdrive need to be extended further towards the gear. The wheel can only move about half the distance before it is stopped by this. That is the main issue I want to fix, explains why the car handles so funny now.

I do have the diffs set like they say to in the instructions. Tighten enough to fully compress the spring, back off 1/2 turn. I'm starting to think the problem I had before was something stupid like the diff getting too loose and it slipping enough to heat up and melt.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:51 PM   #20
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As far as assembling them correctly or not, I mean like is there even a way to assemble it wrong with it actually working? They are incredibly simple.
Well you can assemble them with the stock diff bolt which as you are well aware of is too short...No disrespect here but that is pretty common knowledge among the TC3/TC4 community to use the stealth both and nut from the T4/B4 kit as the one that comes with the kit is too short.

Like I said previously build the diffs with the steel outdrives, use the stealth nut and bolt with dab of threadlock, and shim them up properly in the cases, they should last you quite awhile.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:43 PM   #21
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Well you can assemble them with the stock diff bolt which as you are well aware of is too short...No disrespect here but that is pretty common knowledge among the TC3/TC4 community to use the stealth both and nut from the T4/B4 kit as the one that comes with the kit is too short.

Like I said previously build the diffs with the steel outdrives, use the stealth nut and bolt with dab of threadlock, and shim them up properly in the cases, they should last you quite awhile.
Gotcha. No disrespect taken, I know I am incredibly new to the on-road scene. I've always raced off road. This is my first touring car, I got it as a used roller, here on rctech, about 3 months ago. Just put the electronics in and started using it about a month ago. So I know very little when it comes to these kind of tricks.

I actually just finished a pack a few mins ago. The diffs feel petty good, I loosened the rear about 1/8 turn last night, seems to be holding just fine. I'm just being careful not to punch it from a standstill and other things that stress the hell out of the rear diff.
The right rear travel being limited is really screwing with the handling. If I go too fast around a left turn, it either slides out after the suspension stops moving, or it grabs and flips the car over... a lot. Kinda funny to watch, but really I'm thinking
So that has to be addressed if I plan on being any good at on-road. It's looking like I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet and buy the proper TC3 outdrives, a T4/B4 nut and bolt, and rebuild the diff with them, and see where I stand.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I know I've still got a lot to learn about these touring cars. Perfect example, which adjustment is out of whack that causes a groove on the tires that goes all the way around right by the inside edge? I have a feeling it is common, and everyone knows what I am talking about, but I could take a pic if needed.
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