Charger Decisions
#1

I have the Super Brain 959, but want the CE GFX Turbo 35. As my skills, knowledge, and POCKETBOOK increases, I need to make this purchase a long-sustaining one. I have quite a few NASCAR items on E-Bay that's selling pretty good, so in a few weeks I'll be ready to buy something. I'm just wondering if the T-35 is a bit much for someone who's only been in the hobby less than a year.
Maybe I can grow into it.
Should I continue to save up for it, or should I take the $200 I already have and get something less comparable like the Super Brain 969, LRP Pulsar Comp, or Novak Millenium? What about running motor break-in machines or motor lathes and such with these others? I also want to get the Rivergate Bulldog 30 or 35 amp power supply. Like I said before, I don't want to make any unnecessary buys (especially of items like these) for a LONG TIME.
Sorry I have been a bit long-winded but maybe me having a few beers has something to do with it.
any help would be anxiously appreciated


Sorry I have been a bit long-winded but maybe me having a few beers has something to do with it.




any help would be anxiously appreciated

#2

Just so you know, I started with the 959 and jumped to the Reedy Quasar Pro when I started racing and then the GFX for $399...This all happened over a period of only 7 months. Just go straight to the GFX and never look back.
I have a Bulldog power supply but didn't like taking it to the track...It's too heavy and the edges are annoyingly sharp. Therefore, I recently purchased the new Competition Electronics 23 Amp Power Supply for $99 directly from CE.
No more beer before racing...I might be on the track...
I have a Bulldog power supply but didn't like taking it to the track...It's too heavy and the edges are annoyingly sharp. Therefore, I recently purchased the new Competition Electronics 23 Amp Power Supply for $99 directly from CE.
No more beer before racing...I might be on the track...
#3

Originally posted by XXX-S Bill
Just so you know, I started with the 959 and jumped to the Reedy Quasar Pro when I started racing and then the GFX for $399...This all happened over a period of only 7 months. Just go straight to the GFX and never look back.
I have a Bulldog power supply but didn't like taking it to the track...It's too heavy and the edges are annoyingly sharp. Therefore, I recently purchased the new Competition Electronics 23 Amp Power Supply for $99 directly from CE.
No more beer before racing...I might be on the track...
Just so you know, I started with the 959 and jumped to the Reedy Quasar Pro when I started racing and then the GFX for $399...This all happened over a period of only 7 months. Just go straight to the GFX and never look back.
I have a Bulldog power supply but didn't like taking it to the track...It's too heavy and the edges are annoyingly sharp. Therefore, I recently purchased the new Competition Electronics 23 Amp Power Supply for $99 directly from CE.
No more beer before racing...I might be on the track...
Thanks man
I see you got the Novak Smart Tray; how do you like it, I get mine delivered tomorrow.



I can just file down the edges-- don't stop me now!!
As for BEER, don't worry..... I'm a 'closet drinker'




#4

Originally posted by JayBee
Thanks man
I see you got the Novak Smart Tray; how do you like it, I get mine delivered tomorrow.
I can just file down the edges-- don't stop me now!!
As for BEER, don't worry..... I'm a 'closet drinker'
Thanks man
I see you got the Novak Smart Tray; how do you like it, I get mine delivered tomorrow.



I can just file down the edges-- don't stop me now!!
As for BEER, don't worry..... I'm a 'closet drinker'




Be ultra careful that your packs are placed the right way in the Tray. A friend wasn't paying attention...placed a good pack in the wrong way and promptly fried one cell. I had to resolder the +/- connection plates on a couple packs so they could be placed the right way in the Tray.
Its discharge rate is only 2.7A; so, I initially discharge a matched pack down towards 5.4V using a Deans discharger light (with an automatic cutoff) before placing the pack in the Tray.
#5

Originally posted by XXX-S Bill
Funny you should ask...I started writing about the Smart Tray and felt it was getting a bit off track from your original post. It's excellent! Improvement for practice (older) and racing (new) battery packs was typically 300-400 mahr after the second time using it on a pack.
Be ultra careful that your packs are placed the right way in the Tray. A friend wasn't paying attention...placed a good pack in the wrong way and promptly fried one cell. I had to resolder the +/- connection plates on a couple packs so they could be placed the right way in the Tray.
Its discharge rate is only 2.7A; so, I initially discharge a matched pack down towards 5.4V using a Deans discharger light (with an automatic cutoff) before placing the pack in the Tray.
Funny you should ask...I started writing about the Smart Tray and felt it was getting a bit off track from your original post. It's excellent! Improvement for practice (older) and racing (new) battery packs was typically 300-400 mahr after the second time using it on a pack.
Be ultra careful that your packs are placed the right way in the Tray. A friend wasn't paying attention...placed a good pack in the wrong way and promptly fried one cell. I had to resolder the +/- connection plates on a couple packs so they could be placed the right way in the Tray.
Its discharge rate is only 2.7A; so, I initially discharge a matched pack down towards 5.4V using a Deans discharger light (with an automatic cutoff) before placing the pack in the Tray.

#6

If you are going to only use it once during a race day, you can discharge slowly via the Tray. Otherwise, I tend to want to get mine down quickly to have the option of using them a second time that same day. I let my packs 'rest' at least two hours after discharging to .9V per cell. If not used again that day, the discharged packs go back into the battery case with nothing more needed to do to them.
Next race day, I place the pack on the Tray to get the chemical reaction going before charging them on my GFX or Bulldog X3 (which only charges).
Next race day, I place the pack on the Tray to get the chemical reaction going before charging them on my GFX or Bulldog X3 (which only charges).
#7

Originally posted by JayBee
....I'm just wondering if the T-35 is a bit much for someone who's only been in the hobby less than a year.
Maybe I can grow into it.
Should I continue to save up for it, or should I take the $200 I already have and get something less comparable like the Super Brain 969, LRP Pulsar Comp, or Novak Millenium? .....
....I'm just wondering if the T-35 is a bit much for someone who's only been in the hobby less than a year.


So often, I either get mid-range equipment like KO Presto and Eagle CDC charger or get old but proven design, when new models come out. Like LRP IPC V7.1.
I'm happy this way. Especially, when I win over guys which spend a LOT more money than I do.
On the other hand, I've also bought too cheap some times (not the above mentioned).
So if you can get the money, aim for the best. But cheap, cry all the time. Buy expensive, and you only cry once.
#8

I have the LRP Pulsar Sport and the Competition and enjoy them very much. They are what you would call low budget I guess. It is pretty good considering The Sport is around $100.00 and the Competition around $165.00 depending on where you find them. I think they work great for me......

#10

Hi Jaybee,
I know you like the T35 and it is a good charger. But please check out the Pro trak, the link is below.
Thankyou.
I know you like the T35 and it is a good charger. But please check out the Pro trak, the link is below.
Thankyou.
#11

Originally posted by Cole Trickle
So if you can get the money, aim for the best. Buy cheap, cry all the time. Buy expensive, and you only cry once.
So if you can get the money, aim for the best. Buy cheap, cry all the time. Buy expensive, and you only cry once.
#13

Originally posted by ICEMAN
if money is no prOblem then the GFX, but if it is then the LRP PULSAR COMP.
if money is no prOblem then the GFX, but if it is then the LRP PULSAR COMP.
And RC Tech in Daly City has the Novak Smart Tray for only $75.
But, I would still stay with the CE 23A Power Supply for $99.
#14

If your going to be long in this hobby, spend wisely and you wont get burnt in the long run.
Personally using Eagle CDC V 6.0B.
Its great but would be better if the discharge is increase to 30 amps.
Only thing the Eagle/Integy charger doesnt do is run in your motor.
This is where the money you save up, you could purchase a Motor Manager. Orion, Yokomo and Team Much More have some of the best Motor Manager around.
So do some research and spend your money wisely and you will be a smiling man on the track.
Oh yea, if you wanna know, i will be purchasing my 2nd Eagle CDC v 6.0B soon. And not forgetting the motor manager by Team Much More.
Personally using Eagle CDC V 6.0B.
Its great but would be better if the discharge is increase to 30 amps.
Only thing the Eagle/Integy charger doesnt do is run in your motor.
This is where the money you save up, you could purchase a Motor Manager. Orion, Yokomo and Team Much More have some of the best Motor Manager around.
So do some research and spend your money wisely and you will be a smiling man on the track.
Oh yea, if you wanna know, i will be purchasing my 2nd Eagle CDC v 6.0B soon. And not forgetting the motor manager by Team Much More.



#15

Originally posted by XXX-S Bill
Agreed!
And RC Tech in Daly City has the Novak Smart Tray for only $75.
But, I would still stay with the CE 23A Power Supply for $99.
Agreed!
And RC Tech in Daly City has the Novak Smart Tray for only $75.
But, I would still stay with the CE 23A Power Supply for $99.


THANKS