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Old 06-06-2004, 11:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
You're not always going to be able to find information on the exact issue you request. Some information applies in general terms.

IF people could apply information to the Mabuchi 540 class...I suspect there'd be another thread started asking how the information applies to 1500 stick packs.

If you want the fastest possible laptimes try maintaining corner speed instead of pointing and squirting. That will be your best chance at being competitive in touring car. In a tightly controlled class liek the one you will be running, maintaining speed could mean the difference between a win and a loss.

I understand that your driving style has been point and squirt...mine was too until I started driving 1/12 scale on a tight track and found that I was faster in a straight line...but my lap times were also higher.

By smoothing out the lines the car didn't seem to be quite as fast, but lap times dropped significantly...

Just my $0.02...and I know how much you value them from your responses in your other threads
Now theres a reply worth the whole dollar Thank you. Ok time for breakfast where I am.
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Old 06-06-2004, 11:43 AM   #17
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I don't know what kit you decided on....but...further to my earlier post....

I haven't heard anybody that has run the Xray T1 Factory Kit NOT rave about how much corner speed it holds...

The Xrays have always cornered well and maintained speed well...the Factory Kit supposedly takes it to a whole other level...

There are many posts and many threads that support that information..including the Ask Josh cyrul thread...you may say that it can't be trusted because he is a team Xray driver....but everyone that I talk to that knows him says that he's as straight a shooter as you're likely to find.

No matter what kit you end up getting though..ultimately it's goign to come down to your driving skill...

All this time spent deciding..just think...you could be racing by now
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Old 06-06-2004, 05:13 PM   #18
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I just WISH a moderator would close down ALL these STUPID shaft vs belt threads . If the people who start them are so dumb they can't work it out for themselves, no matter how much we try to spell it out for them they will always come back with another DUMB ASS QUESTION !
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Old 06-06-2004, 05:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Merciless
I just WISH a moderator would close down ALL these STUPID shaft vs belt threads . If the people who start them are so dumb they can't work it out for themselves, no matter how much we try to spell it out for them they will always come back with another DUMB ASS QUESTION !
TWNathan-seems I'm not alone in my earlier reasoning. There have been multiple, multiple, multiple threads on this subject. And if he was looking for a specific thread covering the Mabuchis, then this is not the best place for him to seek help.
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Old 06-06-2004, 06:44 PM   #20
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Don't Talk the Walk.

Walk the Talk!

Get a fricken car already!

All these theory mumbo jumbo is crap. A good driver will make any car look good and not break the car too while driving it.

I just wanna ask you one question.

If after 6 months of theory discussion on this forums, you finally fork out the cash for a car and find out you don't like it after one week, how would you feel?
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Old 06-06-2004, 06:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Entropy
Don't Talk the Walk.

Walk the Talk!

Get a fricken car already!

All these theory mumbo jumbo is crap. A good driver will make any car look good and not break the car too while driving it.

I just wanna ask you one question.

If after 6 months of theory discussion on this forums, you finally fork out the cash for a car and find out you don't like it after one week, how would you feel?
I don't make mistakes in purchasing in that I have never regreted any purchase I've ever made...have you?
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Old 06-06-2004, 06:54 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
I don't make mistakes in purchasing in that I have never regreted any purchase I've ever made...have you?
Frankly, as long as there are threads for specific cars in this forums. I don't think there is cause for ppl to regret getting certain cars, apart from getting one they got for the hype, but didn't really like.
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Old 06-06-2004, 06:57 PM   #23
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Default Good comment....

Quote:
Originally posted by Entropy
Frankly, as long as there are threads for specific cars in this forums. I don't think there is cause for ppl to regret getting certain cars, apart from getting one they got for the hype, but didn't really like.
.....

Which is precisely why I've asked the questions I have...to avoid the hype any annoyance caused by those questions is regrettable but unavoidable.
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Old 06-06-2004, 07:02 PM   #24
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Default Re: Good comment....

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
.....

Which is precisely why I've asked the questions I have...to avoid the hype any annoyance caused by those questions is regrettable but unavoidable.
Dude, I bought my cars coz I liked them, not because of the hype.

Hype is what you get from asking the public. You can only get so much information about a car, the rest is hype. Only when you drive the car will you know the truth.

eg. I have a pro4 famed for breaking one-way ring gears. To date I have never broken a single one, nor any other part on the car even though I race extensively. Geez, all I've been buying are hop-ups, I have ZERO spares for my Pro4 when I go racing.
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Old 06-06-2004, 07:06 PM   #25
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Default Can certanily agree with the last paragraph....

Quote:
Originally posted by Entropy
Dude, I bought my cars coz I liked them, not because of the hype.

Hype is what you get from asking the public. You can only get so much information about a car, the rest is hype. Only when you drive the car will you know the truth.

eg. I have a pro4 famed for breaking one-way ring gears. To date I have never broken a single one, nor any other part on the car even though I race extensively. Geez, all I've been buying are hop-ups, I have ZERO spares for my Pro4 when I go racing.
Back when I raced a JRX2 apparently the shocks were supposed to leak but I never had it happen once.

As for the hype I understand that but I've been working on the listen to hype from both sides then let them cancel each other out and what's left is the truth theory. lol
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Old 06-06-2004, 10:13 PM   #26
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WHAT CAR LOOKS THE BEST?







Now once you choose the kind you like..CHOOSE A LOGO







Visit each manufactuer's website and see who impresses you. Also check part prices and read the threads on each car. Ask the questions there. Also read some magazines/race reviews. Whatever impresses you the most will probably do you the best. Pay a visit to the track & ask around.


Now dont go worring yourself about the body... A Protoform MG will do you no wrong
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Old 06-07-2004, 04:37 AM   #27
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Some people like to talk, some like to race
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Old 06-07-2004, 06:52 AM   #28
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Default MABUCHI540

get both a shaft (for tight tracks) and a belt car(for BIG flowing tracks)!!!!!!

again, like what others posted here and on different threads, each have their advantages!! Since you'l be running 1500mah bats only, the shaft is better!!! Since majority says a shaft is more efficient.

I think the greatest factor in your kit of choice is weight, power efficency since your are onlylimited to 540 and 1500mah batteries.

And I think a johnson540 is faster
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Old 06-07-2004, 09:59 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Merciless
I just WISH a moderator would close down ALL these STUPID shaft vs belt threads . If the people who start them are so dumb they can't work it out for themselves, no matter how much we try to spell it out for them they will always come back with another DUMB ASS QUESTION !
Oh PLEASE

Still waiting for a sensible mod. to shut down all these duff threads
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:54 AM   #30
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Here is my expierence with shaft cars vs belt cars.

The shaft cars tend to have higher top end since they don't have belt flap. The belt cars seem to punch out of the corners better, but with low amounts of power they don't seem to have the top end of a shaft car.

Here is an unfortunate point, the TC3 motor mount will not fit the large size bearing that is used on the stock tamiya type mabuchi 540.

I have to disagree with lem2 on his opinion on which car does better on which track. I have always found shaft driven cars to be better for large tracks.

Oh ya, if you buy a tamiya car, clean the grease out of the bearings before you built it and replace it with a light oil like the stuff used in motor bearings. This made a significant difference in my tamiya 414-m2.

For your reference these are the cars that I have owned.

2 TC3's, XXX-S, 414-m2, TA-04, RS4 Sport, Yokomo MR4-TC Pro, and the most inneficient belt car the XX-4 (almost the same as the Street Weapon)

just my $.02, take it or leave it.
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