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Old 03-09-2012, 06:56 AM   #196
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Also, kind of an off topic thing as I'm following F1 again,I noticed that last season Jenson Button's car lost its power steering in one of the races and he retired that race because of it and I thought it was kind of a BS move. ... This got me thinking that maybe this new breed of racers are a bit soft lol.
Love that the driver you picked as an example of 'soft' drivers is the one that regularly takes part in triathlons and iron man contests to keep fit.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:15 AM   #197
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Does anyone know any staff at the body makers to see if they still have the molds to pull the old Jaguar and Porshe GTP bodies? And any chance they would fit the newer 12th and 10th scale pan cars?
Any of the body makers will happily pull any of the old bodies for you, as long you order a hundred of them.

if you just want one or two though, there is already plenty of choices.
McAllister Racing for 1/10th wide pan
Andys Mercedes GTP in 1/10th and 1/12th
A selection for narrow pan from Cross, Blade, Colt
1/12th Mercedes from Kawada
and the new Toyota Toms and Porsche 956 bodies re-released by Tamiya for their new /12th scale car.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:20 AM   #198
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Still looking for bbs style wheels for the tamiya r91 nissan... anybody?
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:14 AM   #199
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Still looking for bbs style wheels for the tamiya r91 nissan... anybody?
The closest you could get are the Jaguar group "C" Tamiya rims, they come in white and are sort of BBS mesh style.
The good news is that you won't have to fiddle with anything for the fit to the chassis is the same as your Nissan stock rims.

Check E Bay, they come in white.

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Old 03-21-2012, 02:06 AM   #200
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I guess I'm too old school . My SVX weigh about 3200lbs. and I don't like how the car feels at high speed with the pump on, so I took the belt off. So maybe the new drivers don't have big (you know what) to drive cars that not to long ago had no power steering. Can't wait to see go-kart with power steering , since that what the F1 drivers run off-season.

On topic for a bit. My M.A.N.E. Eclipse is almost like a pan-car, but with independent suspension, how competitive would you guys think it could be against the new 235mm cars with a nice Porsche 962 body?
I can't help but laugh at your comparisons. Driving a go kart with slicks tires that are at best 7 or 8" wide and such small diameter is like saying you are experienced at flying a kite so you can fly a 747 jumbo jet. I raced Mazda RX-3's in the '90's on Goodyear racing slicks that have a fraction of the grip, down force, etc. of a modern day Formula 1 car and I would be tired after a 30 minute sprint race as that car did not ave power steering. And yes, I was a regular at the gym in those days. Later, I drove a 500HP Camaro on the race track and even with power steering, it was tiring if you were not in shape. If you think your SXV feels better at high speed with the belt off, you certainly would not be able to handle the high speed precision and reactions of a modern day race car. Take a modern day F1 car that is as quick as the "old school cars" without power steering but also had more power and that funny thing called ground effects and I think you could say most F1 drivers are carrying a pretty good size set in their overalls when they step in the cockpit.

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Old 03-21-2012, 05:27 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by KingAirPilot View Post
Does anyone know any staff at the body makers to see if they still have the molds to pull the old Jaguar and Porshe GTP bodies? And any chance they would fit the newer 12th and 10th scale pan cars?
For 235mm pan
http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page755.htm

For 1/12
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150625098189...84.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150750307712...84.m1438.l2649
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:54 PM   #202
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Default Nissan R91 the other proyect?

Have you guys seen this one?









Cheers!
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:12 AM   #203
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I tried a dobule wing like that years ago on my RC10L at The Ranch. It gave me too much rear traction.
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:07 PM   #204
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Hi,
Maybe somone can help me out.
I`m trying to upgrade my Group c chassis a bit.

I am trying to mount the F104 alu diff on the gr.c chassis.
But the alu diff housing are longer than standard.
So i think i need f103 t-bar (ca 4mm offset to the other side)

Can someone with a f103 please tell me the distance between the two screws
you mount the T-bar to the main chassis. (mm)
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:37 PM   #205
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The only difference between the F103 and F104 rear axle assemblies is the F104 axle itself is shorter than the F103. The off-set is the same.
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:59 PM   #206
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Yes, but not the Tamiya group c chassis. the wheel hex on the diff side is shorter than the alu diff on f103/f104

So if someone has a f103 can you please messure the distance between the mounting screws on the T-bar?
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:41 PM   #207
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Yes, but not the Tamiya group c chassis. the wheel hex on the diff side is shorter than the alu diff on f103/f104

So if someone has a f103 can you please messure the distance between the mounting screws on the T-bar?
the only way you could use the new diff is to convert the entire rear end to the 104 or 103 including the t-bar. The measurment is roughly 55.3mm. The t-bar on the group c car is centered where as the 103 is offset.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:51 PM   #208
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Originally Posted by Cryptonite View Post
Yes, but not the Tamiya group c chassis. the wheel hex on the diff side is shorter than the alu diff on f103/f104

So if someone has a f103 can you please messure the distance between the mounting screws on the T-bar?
I tried getting my C to run on F104 rubbers and F103 Diff, no good. you will never get the offset correctly.

It's faster and handles much better stock. Just install a 17.5 dremel the plastic motor mount so you can fit a wider pinion or go 64 pitch, you louse the cool sound but get more roll out punch.

If you trim the battery hole then you can run a LIPO pack such as the Orion 3800. With the bullets plugs facing in, all cables remain inside the bathtub.

If you must run rubber (as is mandatory in some classes here in CA) use the stock rims and Tamiya F104 soft rear and F60 Kit fronts glue directly to the stock C rims.

No need to do more than that...

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Old 03-30-2012, 06:00 PM   #209
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Thank you for messuring.
it seems like the f103 T-bar plate will not fit afterall.
the mounting screws is in different posision.
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:57 PM   #210
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If you want to fit the F104 diff there's several options.
First, the F104 diff will push the wheel out 4mm, so if you have the clearance under the body then you could fit the F104 diff and add a 4mm spacer on the axle on the other side to space it out. If you haven't got the clearance then the slightly narrower F104 wheels would fit on there.

If you want to stick to the normal width rear end and use the Group C wheels, then it can be done pretty easily. It just requires a bit of work. Simple option is to modify an F103 T-piece. Having compared both of them, as the holes are in quite different locations it's pretty simple to drill and countersink a new pair of holes in the F103 T-piece to get it to fit, then cut off the excess material at the front of the T-piece with a hacksaw or dremel. You will then have to sort out the mounting point for the shock as the F103 mounts the shock to a damper plate, so you need a strip between the two mounting points on the motor mount to mount the shock to.
Alternatively you can either make or get someone to make a new T-piece based on the F102/Group C one with the correct amount of offset. If you don't have the equipment to cut fibreglass there are several companies that can do it for you, if you are prepared to wait a while I could even make one myself.
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