R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-02-2004, 08:12 PM   #76
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,813
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Post

Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
I agree with JayBee's last statement

I wanted a Tamiya Evo3 SL
I get a Losi (cheap & RTR)

I dump the Losi for the TC3 (good parts support/price)
I still want a Evo3

TC3 doesn't perform upto snuff for me
I get an Evo3

I place 3rd in my next race
With the Evo3
DYN-O-MITE
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2004, 08:19 PM   #77
Tech Lord
 
Oasis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: * Sin Cal *
Posts: 10,336
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

I would look at the Losi but I dont think it's as tough as the Xray,but the ratio of the losi is low enough At 1.88,Their are a few gear adaptors on the market for the Losi,so without to much trouble you could get the ratio's you needed.I also would look for used XXXS's,right now the market is very soft for used Losi's(as in cheap)It's still a great car and with the black belt kit(really free's up the drive train)more than fast enough.The choice is yours,after all it's only money.
Oasis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2004, 11:23 PM   #78
Tech Addict
 
Simon K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 573
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Pedro 51


Reasoning
A) The fastest 540 motor car seen regularly at the Wellington track is an X-Ray!
see ya at the track
Peter

Gimme a week or two Pete, I plan on changing that

This whole "What car" thing's getting a bit out of hand. There is absolutely no reason to spend $1500 on a single Touring car, no matter where you are.
Pick a chassis.

Build the kit, as per instructions and just run it. I'd bet dollars for donuts that the factory setup will be fine for 540 class. Buy some front/rear arms and hub carriers. These are the usual casualties when you crash. A spare pulley set and belts too.

Anything else can be bought as you need it. If you don't have a credit card you'll just have to get used to the idea that no-one will send you anything unless you pay first by cheque.

Breaking a car and not having a spare part is a chance you take, it's not the end of the world if you have to pack up early.

You'll be pleasantly surprised by the quality of the kits these days(I feel you are expecting them to be crap, like the old days). They use top quality materials and you aren't going to be ruining X Ray ball bearings for example, racing with a 540 motor(unless you interfere with them).

If you are quite happy to blow a huge chunk of cash unnecessarily, then thats it for me, go ahead. We've tried to talk you out of it to save you money but I feel we're wasting our breath/typing here.

Me personally, I'm going the cheapest route possible. I've bought a $160 second hand(mint) "Racer TC3" and I'm gonna have some fun with it, without worrying too much about having every conceivable part spare. I'll pick stuff up as I go and I'll learn what I need.
Simon K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2004, 11:33 PM   #79
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,204
Default Perhaps you missed the shopping list....

comment further up I made a list as suggested and as I thought and calculated it is cheaper to buy the parts as a kit rather than "as you need them" as for the

"Anything else can be bought as you need it. If you don't have a credit card you'll just have to get used to the idea that no-one will send you anything unless you pay first by cheque."

I don't have a cheque book either.
Mabuchi540 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2004, 11:47 PM   #80
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,204
Default I've been meaning to add and changing the subject somewhat.....

There is only one reason that I'm looking at a 1/10th on-road touring car and that is because there is no official class for the Tamiya 4wd F1 cars in NZ I even went as far as ringing the NZRCA technical officer to check.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 06-03-2004 at 12:47 AM.
Mabuchi540 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2004, 11:54 PM   #81
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,813
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Post

Quote:
Originally posted by Simon K
Gimme a week or two Pete, I plan on changing that

This whole "What car" thing's getting a bit out of hand. There is absolutely no reason to spend $1500 on a single Touring car, no matter where you are.
Pick a chassis.

Build the kit, as per instructions and just run it. I'd bet dollars for donuts that the factory setup will be fine for 540 class. Buy some front/rear arms and hub carriers. These are the usual casualties when you crash. A spare pulley set and belts too.

Anything else can be bought as you need it. If you don't have a credit card you'll just have to get used to the idea that no-one will send you anything unless you pay first by cheque.

Breaking a car and not having a spare part is a chance you take, it's not the end of the world if you have to pack up early.

You'll be pleasantly surprised by the quality of the kits these days(I feel you are expecting them to be crap, like the old days). They use top quality materials and you aren't going to be ruining X Ray ball bearings for example, racing with a 540 motor(unless you interfere with them).

If you are quite happy to blow a huge chunk of cash unnecessarily, then thats it for me, go ahead. We've tried to talk you out of it to save you money but I feel we're wasting our breath/typing here.

Me personally, I'm going the cheapest route possible. I've bought a $160 second hand(mint) "Racer TC3" and I'm gonna have some fun with it, without worrying too much about having every conceivable part spare. I'll pick stuff up as I go and I'll learn what I need.

WOW-- HILARIOUS
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 01:44 AM   #82
Tech Elite
 
Cole Trickle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Denmark / Europe
Posts: 2,571
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Simon K
If you are quite happy to blow a huge chunk of cash unnecessarily, then thats it for me, go ahead. We've tried to talk you out of it to save you money but I feel we're wasting our breath/typing here.
This is also what I feel.

The choise of having a credit card or not is very personal, but it seems like it would make things a lot more easy to get one.

But it's not my business.

As for the cars: Consider that Schumacher use longer springs than other cars. So it might be usefull to get springs from another brand, if you want another car later on. Case is, that if you take the too long Schumacher springs to another car, you will have zero droop. Resulating in real bad handling. But you can do it the other way around: Shorther springs will work on the Schumacher, if you add proper spacers.
__________________
Schumacher Mi5 - Sanwa MT-4 / RX-462 / KO Propo PDS-2123 - Nosram 5600 X-treme Saddle Pack - LRP SPX Zero/X12 17,5 - Nosram Stealth Touch Evolution - MAAS SPS 9250
Cole Trickle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 01:46 AM   #83
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,204
Default See I just knew it had been too many years away from RC.....

Quote:
Originally posted by Cole Trickle
This is also what I feel.

The choise of having a credit card or not is very personal, but it seems like it would make things a lot more easy to get one.

But it's not my business.

As for the cars: Consider that Schumacher use longer springs than other cars. So it might be usefull to get springs from another brand, if you want another car later on. Case is, that if you take the too long Schumacher springs to another car, you will have zero droop. Resulating in real bad handling. But you can do it the other way around: Shorther springs will work on the Schumacher, if you add proper spacers.
Droop? Is that like preload on the springs?

Oh and I understand what ppl are saying about blowing a wad of cash but as I sat down and added it up it does indeed work out more economical in the long run.
Mabuchi540 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 02:05 AM   #84
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 209
Default

Simon
I guess I could leave the Corally with the silver can, but feel I'd be a bit embarrassed to drop another place in 540 class. Probably put the motor which seems quite strong in the old car. Sent off Drivers series entry today.

Mabuchi540
I'm not in a position to comment on self stocking spares, I keep a huge selection in my van, but........!!! I have a large supply of parts I never broke any of, for a Corally C4.1. I appreciate that a spare car will give you one of everything, but you would probably find you need two of one and none of the other as it were.

I'm a big fan of Formula 1, - I have a good Tamiya and a better Corally. Real F1 cars are two wheel drive and harder to drive for it - models should be the same imho.

Que sera sera

Cheers Peter

Last edited by Pedro 51; 06-03-2004 at 02:44 AM.
Pedro 51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 02:10 AM   #85
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,204
Post

Quote:
Originally posted by Pedro 51
Simon
I guess I could leave the Corally with the silver can, but feel I'd be a bit embarrassed to drop another place in 540 class. Probably put the motor which seems quite strong in the old car.

Mabuchi540
I'm not in a position to comment on self stocking spares, I keep a huge selection in my van, but........!!! I have a large supply of parts I never broke any of, for a Corally C4.1. I appreciate that a spare car will give you one of everything, but you would probably find you need two of one and none of the other as it were.

I'm a big fan of Formula 1, - I have a good Tamiya and a better Corally. Real F1 cars are two wheel drive and harder to drive for it - models should be the same imho.

Que sera sera

Cheers Peter
Point taken about the F1 it's unfortunate as one it would be an easy choice and two visually it pushes my I wanna build that buttons. Que sera sera as you say.

While I think about it how much would a Corally Assissin cost in NZ anyway?
Mabuchi540 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 02:27 AM   #86
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 209
Default

Mabuchi540

I think I paid NZ$800 plus (there were other things included in the cheque and the exchange rate has improved since then). Available from Kelvin of KW Racing. Seemed like a lot at the time, but the other top chassis are catching up. Took me a long time to get my driving / set up aligned, but it is going really well now. I found from the start straight line speed was good as good as anything around.

I only put the 540 motor in the Assassin as a test of speed as my old car was too slow against the X-Ray - I'm now wondering if it was partly a dying motor, I'll test again this week end weather permitting. I usually run it in pro-stock- (27t stock to the rest of the world).

Cheers Peter

ps When you visit I'm in the green van with a selection of cars, I look forward to meeting you.

Last edited by Pedro 51; 06-03-2004 at 02:40 AM.
Pedro 51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 02:54 AM   #87
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 590
Default What car?

Mabuchi540

I was in the same boat as you! I normally race 1/10 nitro but while the weather is shocking over here at the moment, i thought i would give electric a try. i just bought a 2nd hand (but almost new) surikan ev0 3 off my LHS and a 540 motors and so forth to run stock indoor for a while until the weather turn good again (could be running indoors for a while). I will let you know how it runs.

P.S. Were are you guys getting a good supply of xray parts from??????
Brett.w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 02:59 AM   #88
Tech Fanatic
 
Entropy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 965
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
I agree with JayBee's last statement

I wanted a Tamiya Evo3 SL
I get a Losi (cheap & RTR)

I dump the Losi for the TC3 (good parts support/price)
I still want a Evo3

TC3 doesn't perform upto snuff for me
I get an Evo3

I place 3rd in my next race
With the Evo3
Erm no offence dude, but this sounds like a personal preference pitch.

Juz coz u got the car doesn't mean its the best car to have, though that may be the case for u
Entropy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 03:01 AM   #89
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 590
Default Re: Perhaps you missed the shopping list....

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
comment further up I made a list as suggested and as I thought and calculated it is cheaper to buy the parts as a kit rather than "as you need them" as for the

"Anything else can be bought as you need it. If you don't have a credit card you'll just have to get used to the idea that no-one will send you anything unless you pay first by cheque."

I don't have a cheque book either.
You maybe right in buying a "second car" people have to realize that our local hooby dont stock alot of items like in the states and so forth if you want an A arm for a top car (ae, losi, xray etc) people have to order them in because they wont carry them, and to order it over the net would cost heaps in shipping.
Brett.w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2004, 03:05 AM   #90
Tech Fanatic
 
Entropy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 965
Default

Mabuchi:

I think its best to go with the car that you like if budget isn't an issue. Better to die with your loved one, than to live with one you hate

Since parts support is non-existant for any car, it don't matter which car you get.

In the end, parts only break if you crash your car often and/or you're a reckless driver.

The only reason to stay away from a particular car is if it has a systemic flaw. Something that breaks regularly in the normal running of the car rather than user error.

I personally have a Pro4 and a TA04, both I got because I liked. Despite their flaws (if any), I still make them run the best they can, because I like them alot.
Entropy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Narrowed it down! rcrevolution Nitro Off-Road 23 04-29-2008 08:25 PM
23mm Wabash w/ BowTies - Narrowed Wolverini R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 3 05-28-2007 10:56 AM
narrowed wheels wd40prerunner Micro and Mini Scales 1 02-04-2007 12:42 PM
Panther Pythons on Wabash wheels(narrowed) riverrevo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 04-10-2006 02:08 PM
Big Jim's narrowed Reedy brushes for the MVP coolrcdad R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 09-30-2002 06:04 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:39 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net