Ok so I've narrowed it down to 4 cars. . . .
#61

Originally posted by stumper
Just get a car already. I have a Evo III, 414m2,TA04, Losi xxx-sg+
and on a good day I can drive them all about the same if they have the same motor,batts in them. So just pick one and run with it.
Just get a car already. I have a Evo III, 414m2,TA04, Losi xxx-sg+
and on a good day I can drive them all about the same if they have the same motor,batts in them. So just pick one and run with it.
This is cant be a spur of the moment purchase as I've never been a multi car owner eh but yeah I'll have one when my brother comes over for a visit in 3-4 weeks. But the reason for the research is that he won't do it for me he's not into RC in the slightest he said just make the list.
#62

Your calculation surprises me. Not saying it's wrong, just surprised...
Sligthly off topic....
A man is afraid of getting on a airplane where there's a bomb. Unfortunately, he has to fly a lot. He read the statics: Chances of being in a plane with a bomb, is 1/1000. Then he takes another look in the static, and wooww, chances of getting on a plane with 2 bombs, is 1/100.000. Plan was simple: When he enter a plane, he always carry his own bomb.....
You cant cover yourself in all apsects.
But then again: With two cars, you can drive one of them. If anything breaks, you can take the part from the spare car AND order a new one of that particular part.
On the other hand, personally I've experienced that, a given chassis have a weak point, maybe two. This specific part might break often.
Then there are parts, which wear out. This is bearings, moving parts in the steering, balls in the diffs, CVD's, belts, hinge pins, screws...
The parts which might break often - for example A-arms on the Yoke SD - might be usefull to have more extras, than just what in a extra kit.
Consider getting a car, which have identical A-arms all around.
By the way, I like to see you want a belt car. Personally, I'm considering the XRay or the MI2.
Sligthly off topic....
A man is afraid of getting on a airplane where there's a bomb. Unfortunately, he has to fly a lot. He read the statics: Chances of being in a plane with a bomb, is 1/1000. Then he takes another look in the static, and wooww, chances of getting on a plane with 2 bombs, is 1/100.000. Plan was simple: When he enter a plane, he always carry his own bomb.....
You cant cover yourself in all apsects.
But then again: With two cars, you can drive one of them. If anything breaks, you can take the part from the spare car AND order a new one of that particular part.
On the other hand, personally I've experienced that, a given chassis have a weak point, maybe two. This specific part might break often.
Then there are parts, which wear out. This is bearings, moving parts in the steering, balls in the diffs, CVD's, belts, hinge pins, screws...
The parts which might break often - for example A-arms on the Yoke SD - might be usefull to have more extras, than just what in a extra kit.
Consider getting a car, which have identical A-arms all around.
By the way, I like to see you want a belt car. Personally, I'm considering the XRay or the MI2.
#63

Originally posted by Cole Trickle
Your calculation surprises me. Not saying it's wrong, just surprised...
Sligthly off topic....
A man is afraid of getting on a airplane where there's a bomb. Unfortunately, he has to fly a lot. He read the statics: Chances of being in a plane with a bomb, is 1/1000. Then he takes another look in the static, and wooww, chances of getting on a plane with 2 bombs, is 1/100.000. Plan was simple: When he enter a plane, he always carry his own bomb.....
You cant cover yourself in all apsects.
But then again: With two cars, you can drive one of them. If anything breaks, you can take the part from the spare car AND order a new one of that particular part.
On the other hand, personally I've experienced that, a given chassis have a weak point, maybe two. This specific part might break often.
Then there are parts, which wear out. This is bearings, moving parts in the steering, balls in the diffs, CVD's, belts, hinge pins, screws...
The parts which might break often - for example A-arms on the Yoke SD - might be usefull to have more extras, than just what in a extra kit.
Consider getting a car, which have identical A-arms all around.
By the way, I like to see you want a belt car. Personally, I'm considering the XRay or the MI2.
Your calculation surprises me. Not saying it's wrong, just surprised...
Sligthly off topic....
A man is afraid of getting on a airplane where there's a bomb. Unfortunately, he has to fly a lot. He read the statics: Chances of being in a plane with a bomb, is 1/1000. Then he takes another look in the static, and wooww, chances of getting on a plane with 2 bombs, is 1/100.000. Plan was simple: When he enter a plane, he always carry his own bomb.....
You cant cover yourself in all apsects.
But then again: With two cars, you can drive one of them. If anything breaks, you can take the part from the spare car AND order a new one of that particular part.
On the other hand, personally I've experienced that, a given chassis have a weak point, maybe two. This specific part might break often.
Then there are parts, which wear out. This is bearings, moving parts in the steering, balls in the diffs, CVD's, belts, hinge pins, screws...
The parts which might break often - for example A-arms on the Yoke SD - might be usefull to have more extras, than just what in a extra kit.
Consider getting a car, which have identical A-arms all around.
By the way, I like to see you want a belt car. Personally, I'm considering the XRay or the MI2.
Oh and umm thanks for pointing out that with a second kit I'd have a second set of bearings I hadn't thought of that. Doh lol
#64
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)

Originally posted by Mabuchi540
This is cant be a spur of the moment purchase as I've never been a multi car owner eh but yeah I'll have one when my brother comes over for a visit in 3-4 weeks. But the reason for the research is that he won't do it for me he's not into RC in the slightest he said just make the list.
This is cant be a spur of the moment purchase as I've never been a multi car owner eh but yeah I'll have one when my brother comes over for a visit in 3-4 weeks. But the reason for the research is that he won't do it for me he's not into RC in the slightest he said just make the list.
#65

Originally posted by Mabuchi540
For example with one kit I added the price of 4 front A arms but with two kits to have the same number I'd only need to by two extra that sort of thing.
Oh and umm thanks for pointing out that with a second kit I'd have a second set of bearings I hadn't thought of that. Doh lol
For example with one kit I added the price of 4 front A arms but with two kits to have the same number I'd only need to by two extra that sort of thing.
Oh and umm thanks for pointing out that with a second kit I'd have a second set of bearings I hadn't thought of that. Doh lol
Recently I talked to the local Schuie importer about what might break on the MI2. He pointed out that it also depend on the track.... Some tracks have boards which are way harder to the cars than others... With the tracks I've been at in mind, I'm quite sure he's right !
As somebody else said, with 1500 and 540, you wont break much anyway. And the wear will also be way lower. Personally, my belts last for at least a year, maybe two in stock class. My bearings get gritty, but dont wear out (but I'm too lazy, so I replace instead of cleaning...) Wear will also depend on how dusty the track is....
Why not just pick a model (without the backup car), and then try it out. If you dont break anything, why spend money on backup? If it appears you break parts, you can order the spare kit and/or parts......
I'm not saying your plan abiout having a backup is bad (I would think the same way, if I didnt have local support), I'm just trying to say, that there's a lot of variables that affect the need for spare parts.
#66

certainly trying to take as many variables into account as possible that's for sure. 
As for asking on the specific car forums I've done that and have the answers I need for the MI2 now if someone would answer my gear ratio question on the Losi then I'd have all the info I need.
So in case a xxx-s driver reads this I'll ask it again......
Can the Losi be geared from 4-5:1 and if so what pinions and spurs would I need to get this range (and does the car allow for fitting of the required spur/pinion combos without having to enlarge the motor mounting slot)?

As for asking on the specific car forums I've done that and have the answers I need for the MI2 now if someone would answer my gear ratio question on the Losi then I'd have all the info I need.
So in case a xxx-s driver reads this I'll ask it again......
Can the Losi be geared from 4-5:1 and if so what pinions and spurs would I need to get this range (and does the car allow for fitting of the required spur/pinion combos without having to enlarge the motor mounting slot)?
Last edited by Mabuchi540; 06-02-2004 at 08:42 AM.
#67



#68

Originally posted by ngo8
yeah dude get the car allready running a 540 any car will work .


#69
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)

Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Can the Losi be geared from 4-5:1 and if so what pinions and spurs would I need to get this range (and does the car allow for fitting of the required spur/pinion combos without having to enlarge the motor mounting slot)?
Can the Losi be geared from 4-5:1 and if so what pinions and spurs would I need to get this range (and does the car allow for fitting of the required spur/pinion combos without having to enlarge the motor mounting slot)?
#70

Actually, acceleration is all that it will have with that ratio. That car is going to reach it's top speed of 7 mph almost instantly!
Edit: Oh, you're talking final drive ratio. Never mind.
Edit: Oh, you're talking final drive ratio. Never mind.
#71

Originally posted by stumper
whats the deal with this ratio anyways? i would think that gearing it like that would burn up the motor in a hurry. and its going to lack acceleration
whats the deal with this ratio anyways? i would think that gearing it like that would burn up the motor in a hurry. and its going to lack acceleration
As for the ratio after much searching on the net and asking those that run them with the 1500 packs that stock rules limit them to a ratio somewhere between 4 and 5 to 1 is required (depending on track) to get any sort of performance out of them.
#72
Tech Adept

I'd have to vote for X-Ray.
My Corally Assassin (dealer support in Wellington) is very close in speed, the Car not the driver- but not a good choice, or on your short list, for starting back in racing. There is also a very quick Tamiya.
Reasoning
A) The fastest 540 motor car seen regularly at the Wellington track is an X-Ray!
B)Because of the nature of the track (very hard boards - concrete kerbs), you need a strong car.
C) Well supported in New Zealand
see ya at the track
Peter
ps. a well set up 540 car is faster than a less well set up stock(27t) car on our track
My Corally Assassin (dealer support in Wellington) is very close in speed, the Car not the driver- but not a good choice, or on your short list, for starting back in racing. There is also a very quick Tamiya.
Reasoning
A) The fastest 540 motor car seen regularly at the Wellington track is an X-Ray!
B)Because of the nature of the track (very hard boards - concrete kerbs), you need a strong car.
C) Well supported in New Zealand
see ya at the track
Peter
ps. a well set up 540 car is faster than a less well set up stock(27t) car on our track
#73

Originally posted by Pedro 51
I'd have to vote for X-Ray.
My Corally Assassin (dealer support in Wellington) is very close in speed, the Car not the driver- but not a good choice, or on your short list, for starting back in racing. There is also a very quick Tamiya.
Reasoning
A) The fastest 540 motor car seen regularly at the Wellington track is an X-Ray!
B)Because of the nature of the track (very hard boards - concrete kerbs), you need a strong car.
C) Well supported in New Zealand
see ya at the track
Peter
ps. a well set up 540 car is faster than a less well set up stock(27t) car on our track
I'd have to vote for X-Ray.
My Corally Assassin (dealer support in Wellington) is very close in speed, the Car not the driver- but not a good choice, or on your short list, for starting back in racing. There is also a very quick Tamiya.
Reasoning
A) The fastest 540 motor car seen regularly at the Wellington track is an X-Ray!
B)Because of the nature of the track (very hard boards - concrete kerbs), you need a strong car.
C) Well supported in New Zealand
see ya at the track
Peter
ps. a well set up 540 car is faster than a less well set up stock(27t) car on our track
#74

Originally posted by Pedro 51
I'd have to vote for X-Ray.
My Corally Assassin (dealer support in Wellington) is very close in speed, the Car not the driver- but not a good choice, or on your short list, for starting back in racing. There is also a very quick Tamiya.
Reasoning
A) The fastest 540 motor car seen regularly at the Wellington track is an X-Ray!
B)Because of the nature of the track (very hard boards - concrete kerbs), you need a strong car.
C) Well supported in New Zealand
see ya at the track
Peter
ps. a well set up 540 car is faster than a less well set up stock(27t) car on our track
I'd have to vote for X-Ray.
My Corally Assassin (dealer support in Wellington) is very close in speed, the Car not the driver- but not a good choice, or on your short list, for starting back in racing. There is also a very quick Tamiya.
Reasoning
A) The fastest 540 motor car seen regularly at the Wellington track is an X-Ray!
B)Because of the nature of the track (very hard boards - concrete kerbs), you need a strong car.
C) Well supported in New Zealand
see ya at the track
Peter
ps. a well set up 540 car is faster than a less well set up stock(27t) car on our track
xray and mi2 are both excellent cars; i have heard that the mi2's are really well-built and 'bulletproof'(but everyone knows that everything breaks under the right mistakes). xrays are well crafted too, so you do have something to think about.
then throw in the losi and that's a whole other issue. i went through the same agonizing process. but in the end it all came down to wanting to be different, plus i already had a belt car and i wanted a shaft(but i didn't want the 'popular tc3), so i went with the yoke sd.
with all you're comtemplating, you really can't make a bad choice. go with the one that caught your 'eye' 1st.

#75
Tech Master

I agree with JayBee's last statement
I wanted a Tamiya Evo3 SL
I get a Losi (cheap & RTR)
I dump the Losi for the TC3 (good parts support/price)
I still want a Evo3
TC3 doesn't perform upto snuff for me
I get an Evo3
I place 3rd in my next race
With the Evo3
I wanted a Tamiya Evo3 SL
I get a Losi (cheap & RTR)
I dump the Losi for the TC3 (good parts support/price)
I still want a Evo3
TC3 doesn't perform upto snuff for me
I get an Evo3
I place 3rd in my next race
With the Evo3
