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Old 06-01-2004, 07:12 AM   #46
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Unhappy Moi hit things.

lol
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:16 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally posted by Simon K
There's no reason to buy two cars, unless you are going to race two of them. One kit for spares might be needed in a third world country but certainly not here.

One kit with a supply of parts like arms, springs, shock oils, hubs/carriers, Hingepins, Drivetrain parts, small fasteners etc would be normal which if bought here will be well under $1K and leave room for other goodies like tyres and shells.

Personally I'd be rethinking your plan but thats just me.

your'e not his pops, so get off of that. personally i think he should be able to spend his money how HE WANTS TO SPEND IT .
it is obvious that he has thought about it , that's why he is asking the ???'s that he's asking.
do as you feel bro
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:30 AM   #48
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Default See the thing is.....

when people mention the spares that would be a good idea to get it all makes sense but apart from say a chassis, bearings and bulkheads the parts mentioned pretty much equal a whole car anyway. lol

After all there's not much to cars nowadays from what I've seen. The fastest cars the ones most recommended are pretty much skeleton like anyway.

And I assume the model shops I have called were telling the truth when they said No you couldn't buy a cars worth of parts for less than the price of a boxed kit?
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Old 06-01-2004, 12:24 PM   #49
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I agree with the majority... 2 cars is a waste of money. I know for a fact with most of the cars you listed you will mainly break front and rear arms... front caster blocks and hubs... bend hinge pins. These are the most common parts. If you buy a spare car you will get 2 spare front arms... 2 spare rear arms 2 front hubs, 2 rear hubs and 2 caster blocks (C hubs) well actually 1 left and 1 right. You can go through two arms in one day... The rest of the spare car you will probably never need... you can buy a lot of arms, hubs etc for the price of a car kit. Pick a car and post on that thread asking what breaks. The XRay has the best reputation for being tuff and having a great setup out of the box.
To simplify it... you wont get enough of what breaks with a spare car and you will get a whole lot of stuff that never breaks.
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:03 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally posted by ottoman
I agree with the majority... 2 cars is a waste of money. I know for a fact with most of the cars you listed you will mainly break front and rear arms... front caster blocks and hubs... bend hinge pins. These are the most common parts. If you buy a spare car you will get 2 spare front arms... 2 spare rear arms 2 front hubs, 2 rear hubs and 2 caster blocks (C hubs) well actually 1 left and 1 right. You can go through two arms in one day... The rest of the spare car you will probably never need... you can buy a lot of arms, hubs etc for the price of a car kit. Pick a car and post on that thread asking what breaks. The XRay has the best reputation for being tuff and having a great setup out of the box.
To simplify it... you wont get enough of what breaks with a spare car and you will get a whole lot of stuff that never breaks.

okay, okay , okay, I give.
everyone has a point
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:18 PM   #51
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Mabuchi540, what is up with the 540 motor class and 1500s? How come you guys are running such puny motors? Is this some sort of spec class? If so, why not run 19T or stock? As far as the chassis, I have owned a XXXS and a Tamiya Surikarn EVOIII. The XXXS is an outstanding chassis that is very easy to drive, work on, tune, and assemble. The EVO III (or any car with a graphite plate chassis) is harder to assemble as there is a lot more work in preparing the graphite pieces.

My vote: XXXS G+. You will not be disappointed.

Khal

BTW, what is the r/c scene like in NZ? How high profile is Scott Dixon in NZ?
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:45 PM   #52
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I know you specified Xray FK, but if you buy the FOC kit and use the pivot ball suspension, you'll be saving a lot on spares. the only thing you'll need to replace more frequently are the outdrive pin blades ( the dogbone pin cushions). The lower left and right arms are interchangeable.

Stock on a pair of upper arms, pair of front arms, rear arms, 1 front and 1 rear belt, a few of the big bearings and you're all set. the hub and diff bearings are of the same size.

Handling with the PB suspension is still a lot better than the TA04's.
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:01 AM   #53
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I definitely agree with almost everyone else on this thread that buying two kits is not the best use of your money. It makes MUCH more sense to first decide which car you're going to buy, then post a new thread asking owners of that car which parts break and which ones don't. Once you find out that info, take the money you were going to use on that second kit and buy plenty of the spare parts that are most likely to break.

Let's take the xxxs as an example. I guarantee you that you will break ten suspension arms before you even slightly damage the chassis. As someone else already said, buying a second kit will give you way more spares of some parts (i.e. a second chassis you will probably never need) and not nearly enough of others (i.e. suspension arms). One complete set of spare suspension arms will not be enough.

Of course, if you're running a 540 motor you might not ever break anything!!! j/k
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:31 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by KDagh1
Mabuchi540, what is up with the 540 motor class and 1500s? How come you guys are running such puny motors? Is this some sort of spec class? If so, why not run 19T or stock? As far as the chassis, I have owned a XXXS and a Tamiya Surikarn EVOIII. The XXXS is an outstanding chassis that is very easy to drive, work on, tune, and assemble. The EVO III (or any car with a graphite plate chassis) is harder to assemble as there is a lot more work in preparing the graphite pieces.

My vote: XXXS G+. You will not be disappointed.

Khal

BTW, what is the r/c scene like in NZ? How high profile is Scott Dixon in NZ?
Well yes I guess you could call it spec as stock and 19t would be called pro stock here.

As for the NZ scene well I'm getting back into it so don't really know but from what I've heard each major centre supports a different car...go to one area and it's mostly TC3 and another and it could all be Xray for example... I wanna be different

So sayeth the previous owner of the only MIP 4wd RC10 to ever compete in a national event. lol
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Old 06-02-2004, 01:19 AM   #55
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The scene here isn't at the cutting edge, the national Touring car rules are a bit of a hodge podge so it's hard to compare to everywhere else in the world.

We have a 540 class with limited cells(1500 mah unmatched, rubber tyres only)and this is generally huge at most meets. The competitors range from total newbies...upwards, including trophy hunters who want to have a go in one of the most competitive classes here.

We also run ROAR stock motors in another class and an open modified class, both able to use foam or rubber tyres(more often than not, foam).

But anyway, back to the topic...
The money spent on a second kit is better spent elsewhere, I'm assuming you have all the radio gear/ESC/Servo options taken care of and that you have a suitable charger?
Once you actually make a decision on what kit you're buying, it'll be easier to suggest which spares to buy.

Suffice to say, if you raced in Wellington, you'd be able to buy spares for the Yokomo SD/CGM on the spot as the local track retailer sells them(Kelvin)

MIP RC10 huh, Peter Hook by chance? I remember the Team Pit Stop RC10 2WD chaindrive gearboxes were popular in Palmy for a while too...LOL
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Old 06-02-2004, 01:25 AM   #56
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Thumbs up no no not Big Pete.....

But I do know who you mean.

As for the cars it's down to either the Losi or the MI2 the Xray is great but at a clear $200 more than the other two it don't think it's worth the difference.

It's those two mainly because they fit what I'm looking for, I like the look of both of them and Metro Hobby turns out to be just down the road from my bro in Melbourne.

Oh and not only did I have an MIP I also had a Turbo glide hyperdrive belt kit for the RC10 as well back in the day.
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Old 06-02-2004, 01:39 AM   #57
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Hmmm, while the Mi2 looks like a good car, it's one of the only ones that may be troublesome, getting parts for in this country.

I built a Graphite plus Losi last year and out of the box it was a cracker. Good car and the parts are sharply priced at the moment due to the exchange rate and Hobby Directs regular orders from the USA.
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Old 06-02-2004, 05:57 AM   #58
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Post Ok I've made my list and I'm checking it twice.....

As many have said use the money to buy one kit not two and by a bunch of spares instead, so I've found the parts list for a Schumacher (I'll do the Losi later) and jotted down the part numbers and prices for at least two of everything I have ever broken when I raced before.

On top of this I have added such things as different shock oil and springs, diff rings, shock seals and axels etc etc and I'll post the results once I've added it all up and we'll see if it works out cheaper ...brb asap.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 06-02-2004 at 07:01 AM.
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Old 06-02-2004, 06:53 AM   #59
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Post And the results are in. . . . .

Ok as suggested by others get one kit and buy a bunch of spares with the money I would have purchased the second kit with.

Well for the calculation I disregarded that (becasue I'm just testing the economics of it)and as mentioned in the previous post made a list of the spares that ppl have recommended plus things like spring sets and oil, shock seals that sort of thing.

Ok so to buy 1 kit and the recommended spares plus the extras came to....

$1533

and to buy two kits plus the recommended spares (that wouldn't be covered by the parts in a second kit) came to....

$1282

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 06-02-2004 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 06-02-2004, 07:14 AM   #60
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Just get a car already. I have a Evo III, 414m2,TA04, Losi xxx-sg+
and on a good day I can drive them all about the same if they have the same motor,batts in them. So just pick one and run with it.
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