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Old 06-01-2004, 03:36 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
Team paradigm also has a pretty good guide on how to get your motor running well.

The only thing I would recommend you not do is sand the armature shafts.

You can just polish the shafts with some chrome polish and the inside of the bushing with some polish and a q tip in a drill or a dremel.(tip from paradigm's guide)



http://www.team-paradigm.com/tech.shtml
Thanks........
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:47 PM   #107
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dude, get a new hobby or stop whining. either (best case scenario) your equipment sucks or your driving sucks, or (worst case scenario) both suck. some of the better racers out there have given you their best advice they can. everything they come back with you have an excuse/arguement for (gear up - i can't: your driving - no i'm good on carpet, batteries aren't that bad - yeah but i couldn't win with them anyway, etc).

i know for a fact that there are incredibly helpful people at gilroy (you mention you do well on carpet, i'm assuming this is HW). hit up just about any of the fast guys (hicks, jaime, badboy, or any of a dozen other people) and i'm sure they'll help out. heck even though i don't get a chance to make it that far north too often, if you see me i'll see if i can help out.

-g. warren
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:53 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally posted by gee-dub
dude, get a new hobby or stop whining. either (best case scenario) your equipment sucks or your driving sucks, or (worst case scenario) both suck. some of the better racers out there have given you their best advice they can. everything they come back with you have an excuse/arguement for (gear up - i can't: your driving - no i'm good on carpet, batteries aren't that bad - yeah but i couldn't win with them anyway, etc)
Whatever dude....I can tell you tryin to start somethin with me...

The reasoning to I can't gear up is because the damn motor would fry cause it didn't have the torque to push the car....Even though it sucked...Its still a $25 motor.....

If anyone wants to read about a guy who will give you REAL advice....Read some of the stuff Big Jim writes...I learn more reading one of his threads than reading a page of threads here....

Anyway...I rest part of my case...I found this monster armature my dad said I could use and popped it into a can....24,000 RPM

Needless to say...I'm runnin that motor in stock this weekend
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:08 PM   #109
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Let's see how your memory is...

Try these (CS27/CS22) tires. Read the threads on rccars.com to learn about basic motor tuning. MVP and Core motors are basically the same thing and while they can be made fast, they just take TOO MUCH effort to make fast. Monster Motors suck, they are hard to gear properly but I will have to run one to keep up.

Stuff I said during the "fuzz" season directly to you!

Here is another one, lets see if you remember it...

RPM, in and of itself, is not indicative of a motors performance on the track.

Another one...

Amp draw, in and of itself, is not indicative of a motors performance on the track.

Stop jabbering and start reading, OK!
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:13 PM   #110
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Big Jim is very very biased.

The Black Kat - If a monster is 1 tooth(48 pitch) out in the gearing a motor can feel soft... a new arm isn't going to fix a gearing problem. Ask anybody at the track what gearing/ motor springs and brushes they are useing for their monster.

Back to the topic?
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:16 PM   #111
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Guys got another question, can diffrent brushes withstand diffrent temperatures? Cause i noticed in my V10 i geared it same as my monster and the brushes turned bluey in color.
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:21 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
Anyway...I rest part of my case...I found this monster armature my dad said I could use and popped it into a can....24,000 RPM
RPM Means nothing man. When I put my motors on a Dyno they blow.... When there on the track they are very good motors.
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:22 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally posted by Advil
Let's see how your memory is...

Try these (CS27/CS22) tires. Read the threads on rccars.com to learn about basic motor tuning. MVP and Core motors are basically the same thing and while they can be made fast, they just take TOO MUCH effort to make fast. Monster Motors suck, they are hard to gear properly but I will have to run one to keep up.

Stuff I said during the "fuzz" season directly to you!

Here is another one, lets see if you remember it...

RPM, in and of itself, is not indicative of a motors performance on the track.

Another one...

Amp draw, in and of itself, is not indicative of a motors performance on the track.

Stop jabbering and start reading, OK!
I've been using the CS-22/27 on carpet and they work better than the odd-balled 23-25 combo I got out of the discount bin

I agree with you on the monster thing....They suck but I also run them to keep up

I use the dyno just to compare....While amp draw may just mean a bad bushing (over my dead body I'd allow a bad bushing in those things) RPM on there is a good indication of how "use" the motor...IE My 19,000 Monster would have worked if I were able to gear it higher but it didn't have the torque, If I geared down for the torque I'd have no top end (exactly what happened at Sheldon's, I was trying all sorts of gears too, but none of them worked cause the motor sucked)....Having the 24,000 Monster means I can gear down for the torque and still have top end (which is good)

I also test these results...From my observations (I dyno them with no load) a higher amp-drawing motor usually has more torque....I clean them out REAL good so theres no dirt casing excess amp draw. When a motor dynos in with a high RPM rating...that usually means it has more top end (d'oh, logic works there...) Just from the rug experience I do have, the dyno for me is a good indicator on how the motor works...Sure it can be misleading, but it hasn't done me wrong yet
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:25 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
Big Jim is very very biased.

The Black Kat - If a monster is 1 tooth(48 pitch) out in the gearing a motor can feel soft... a new arm isn't going to fix a gearing problem. Ask anybody at the track what gearing/ motor springs and brushes they are useing for their monster.

Back to the topic?
I tried all sorts of gears....A bunch suggested and a bunch not....NONE of them really worked with the bad motor

I'll try em this Saturday....We can argue more once I get them out on the track for a test
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:35 PM   #115
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black kat ...whats your final drive ratio?
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:40 PM   #116
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The Black Kat - What motor springs/brushes are you running?
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Old 06-01-2004, 09:27 PM   #117
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wrx_fan - brushes are somewhat temperature sensitive, however what i've found running with the 'fast guys' is that they tend to change the brushes more frequently then go to a harder compound that withstands higher temperatures. look for the trinity advertisement in this months rc car action with dieters brush reccomendations.

kat - nah, not trying to start anything. was in your shoes myself not that many years ago .
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Old 06-01-2004, 09:49 PM   #118
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"I also test these results...From my observations (I dyno them with no load) a higher amp-drawing motor usually has more torque...."

You cant dyno a motor with out a load applied and expect to get any usable results... when does your motor run in your car with out a load? All real dyno's apply a load to the motor either by a flywheel (Phantom..Robi etc) or with a load motor (turbo dyno) how can you get a torque reading with out a load?
gee dub is right... for every good sugestion we give, you tell us its not the problem... you seem to know more than us so why ask?
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:06 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally posted by gee-dub
dude, get a new hobby or stop whining. either (best case scenario) your equipment sucks or your driving sucks, or (worst case scenario) both suck. some of the better racers out there have given you their best advice they can. everything they come back with you have an excuse/arguement for (gear up - i can't: your driving - no i'm good on carpet, batteries aren't that bad - yeah but i couldn't win with them anyway, etc).

i know for a fact that there are incredibly helpful people at gilroy (you mention you do well on carpet, i'm assuming this is HW). hit up just about any of the fast guys (hicks, jaime, badboy, or any of a dozen other people) and i'm sure they'll help out. heck even though i don't get a chance to make it that far north too often, if you see me i'll see if i can help out.

-g. warren
Whats up George! When are you gonna make it up to hobbytown in newark to race man?That where we all race on the 2nd and 4th saturday of every month.Been awhile since you have shown me the fast way around the track man! I thought that was your screen name.See you soon hopefully.

J.Hicks

btw....about Black K.....never mind.
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:11 AM   #120
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Wink Want NO LOAD RPM?

Just use green springs on both sides. You will get lots of no load RPM. Motor won't be worth crap, but LOTS of RPM.

Stiffer Spings = More Torque. Some guys are even running purple/purple on monsters. I don't agree, but they say it works. Read the stock motor forum.

I learned a lot from Big Jim's forum too. You just have to sort out the good from the other stuff. Use your own mind and keep what is really useful. My best motors are $25.00 Trinity handouts. They come with NO springs or burshes. I cut the com, put in 767s, red/green or red/red, align the brush hoods perfectly and away I go. My motors are as fast as anyone else.
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