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Old 12-05-2011, 04:53 AM
  #4936  
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i
Sure you didn't mean "you're" genious?
ur a freakin "genious" haha
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
oh no, I have been hit back by an AE fan boy......
I'll take fan boy over illiterate.

Edit: Oh man you got me there. Well done.
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:58 AM
  #4938  
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Originally Posted by Paul.Spencer
and 1, well we can't blame him for racing 2wd off road.....
HEY - I resemble that comment!! (I also race 4wd, 1/8th Nitro & Electric as well as SC!!)

It was a great race, as Paul mentioned, there were plenty of intense battles on the track. I had not driven a tourer for over 4 years - so I feared the worst. My "team mates" gave me the honour of starting the race (they had some faith for some reason!!).......kinda happy I got up to second by the end of the first lap.

Long story short, whilst I am sponsored by other manufacturers - I have absolutely NOTHING bad to say about the T6 at all. The car performed faultlessly ALL day - not one breakage, just a bit of understeer that dissapeared as the track grooved up. It was on RAILS at the end of the race - we were able to match the times of the more "fancied" team of the day. Associated have and always will, make an excellent product.

It is like anything in this hobby - the cars are reliable if worked on and prepped properly. Nearly all of the major manufacturers know their game. In reality, it is we the users that drive into things, forget to maintain and generally let the cars and ultimately ourselves down.

Dont hate the brand cause you clip a kerb WOT and break a part, or something fails because you missed it or did not maintain the car properly....thats your fault - not the car.

Cheers

Darryn
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:59 AM
  #4939  
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woteva u say apostrophe natzi
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:50 AM
  #4940  
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
woteva u say apostrophe natzi
eh, you can't punctuate and my spelling sucks.

you think I'm a twat and I think you're a whiny little sally.

Been fun playing but back to the TC6.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:29 AM
  #4941  
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Got my gear-diffs this weekend. deburred the area by the outdrives, made sure the inner gears were free on the axles( a little deburring ), a little green slime, made sure to not over-tighten, and that's it. nice, easy to build, can't wait to run them this weekend!
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:17 AM
  #4942  
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Originally Posted by turbodog
Got my gear-diffs this weekend. deburred the area by the outdrives, made sure the inner gears were free on the axles( a little deburring ), a little green slime, made sure to not over-tighten, and that's it. nice, easy to build, can't wait to run them this weekend!
I've never run a gear diff. Is it easy to get the mesh correct or does it take some trial and error?

Thanks
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:22 AM
  #4943  
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The TC6 gear diffs were trivial to put together. Goes together much quicker than a ball diff too.

Regarding robustness, I just ran a race weekend with two cars - so all in all, 10 rounds ran - with no leaking.
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:33 AM
  #4944  
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Same here, quite nice, no leaks. The outer ring of the larger half is a bit warped, but it seemed to have no ill effects. I was definitely much faster with it, but it's hard to say if it's from the new Reedy motor, Reflex fan mount / muchmore high RPM fan, or the 1,1,1.5 pistons all around from the AE 3 piston. Unfortunately I don't have a direct comparison to laptimes since the layout changed since I last visited.
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:39 AM
  #4945  
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
Rick,

My car came with silver and copper. Are those what folks are calling white and yellow?
The TC6.1 bars have colored shrink tubing for identification like used on the RC8.2e bars shown here.

Originally Posted by olhipster1
Rick quick question....
Is there a chance that Associated will release different offset mounts. say incremental changes of .5 through 3.5 mm...

now that would make that setup option to a whole new level. with minimal shimming required.
It wold be good to do but with so many options it would require a lot of tooling for not much gain (if any) in performance.

Originally Posted by Chaz955i
I've never run a gear diff. Is it easy to get the mesh correct or does it take some trial and error?

Thanks
Build it like the manual and you are done.
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:41 AM
  #4946  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
Same here, quite nice, no leaks. The outer ring of the larger half is a bit warped, but it seemed to have no ill effects. I was definitely much faster with it, but it's hard to say if it's from the new Reedy motor, Reflex fan mount / muchmore high RPM fan, or the 1,1,1.5 pistons all around from the AE 3 piston. Unfortunately I don't have a direct comparison to laptimes since the layout changed since I last visited.
Some of the larger halves appear to be warped. This does not affect how the diff works but if you have one that is warped and it does cause some type of problem it can be replaced by AE.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:01 PM
  #4947  
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart
Some of the larger halves appear to be warped. This does not affect how the diff works but if you have one that is warped and it does cause some type of problem it can be replaced by AE.
the response I recieved:

Could you send a picture of the case, I installed one in my TC6 and there is a spot that the case has a bit of a waiver, it does not cause any problem and if yours is the same I will show it to the engineers for them to evaluate.

Thank you,

Donald Natale
Team Associated/Associated Electrics Inc.
Senior Dealer, OEM & Customer Support
26021 Commercentre Dr.
Lake Forest, CA 92630
949-544-7500 xt 2124 phone
949-544-7501 fax

So they know of the problem, but want proof? what is there to evaluate? At the price paid, there should be no questions asked, there is a defect, and it should be dealt with.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:35 PM
  #4948  
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can anyone help me find a replacement servo arm for my tc6. I used the f from the kit as I think was suggested somewhere in this thread the servo is savox 1251mg and i had trouble getting it to slide onto the servo anyway.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:38 PM
  #4949  
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that's the same arm im using on my 1257 and it fit fine, same with my b4 and sc10s. i know it's a tight fit, but usually you can start it off then tighten the screw down to finish it off. just get a replacement servo horn set for the tc6 and u should be set.
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:03 PM
  #4950  
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Got my new diffs, and found them to be very tight to the point that putting in the pin on outer drive bent the inside washer and cut the big o-ring. Anyone have ideas now to help this?

I have attached a picture to show the items of issue...
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC6 Thread-difftc6.jpg  

Last edited by bvoltz; 12-05-2011 at 02:46 PM.
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