Team Associated TC6 Thread
#4111
Tech Master
iTrader: (75)
I've got hundreds of screws, that's not a big deal, the turnbuckles are the disappointing thing. All the adjustments in the world on this car, and they don't include the proper turnbuckles to use them.
Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.
I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.
I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
#4112
I've got hundreds of screws, that's not a big deal, the turnbuckles are the disappointing thing. All the adjustments in the world on this car, and they don't include the proper turnbuckles to use them.
Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.
I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.
I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
#4115
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
I remounted it but just pushed the servo down flat to the chassis. and now the servo horn just clears the top deck.
Could be the KO servo has a slightly thicker case therefor raising the centerline of the servo just enough to touch the top deck. I plan to tear the car down and go through it, as I bought it used and would like to make sure its 100% together the right way. When I do that I'll take a closer look at the servos I have and see if one is slightly thinner than the other.
#4117
Tech Fanatic
#4118
Tech Fanatic
I've got hundreds of screws, that's not a big deal, the turnbuckles are the disappointing thing. All the adjustments in the world on this car, and they don't include the proper turnbuckles to use them.
Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.
I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.
I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
#4119
Tech Fanatic
So the first time I mounted the servo I followed this advice here with the thin card under the servo. http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ips/index.html
I remounted it but just pushed the servo down flat to the chassis. and now the servo horn just clears the top deck.
Could be the KO servo has a slightly thicker case therefor raising the centerline of the servo just enough to touch the top deck. I plan to tear the car down and go through it, as I bought it used and would like to make sure its 100% together the right way. When I do that I'll take a closer look at the servos I have and see if one is slightly thinner than the other.
I remounted it but just pushed the servo down flat to the chassis. and now the servo horn just clears the top deck.
Could be the KO servo has a slightly thicker case therefor raising the centerline of the servo just enough to touch the top deck. I plan to tear the car down and go through it, as I bought it used and would like to make sure its 100% together the right way. When I do that I'll take a closer look at the servos I have and see if one is slightly thinner than the other.
#4120
Tech Fanatic
A few weeks ago I actually cut the center out of the rear shock tower to help generate more rear grip. I like my cars to have a ton of steering, but was losing rear grip on the low traction carpet we run, so I cut it and it actually works very well.
When I go to big races, I need to put a stock shocktower back on the rear to when grip levels are high, but the cut one works great on club racing where the track layout is changed often.
When I go to big races, I need to put a stock shocktower back on the rear to when grip levels are high, but the cut one works great on club racing where the track layout is changed often.
#4121
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
I find personaly that the servo mounts are on the wrong side (if this makes sense) they are basically too long and you end up with servo too far forward with servo link having too much angle, true some long servo would be hanging out from chassis and could be damaged in collision if Tboned, but I see more and more short servo being used, I have one myself on the way as I want to change my servo position, this way, my servo arm won't be under the top deck anymore. Ideally would be servo post square like little towers, screwed on bottom of chassis as the ones used now but with a rearer position and being fixed by upper screws only (one on each top position of servo and a bit of double tape on bottom of servo/chassis for more strengh) some people just double tape their servo to chassis, and it works with the right product (but NEVER EVER Superglued)
If you have a steady hand or drill press, you could always make your own servo mount holes a bit further away.
#4123
#4124
Tech Fanatic
yep fill to the cross bar level only