olly986

Chaz explained it well, but if your balls or pads are damaged they need to be replaced, do not mix diff and spool setup.

As explain, when the diff is rebuilt, screw all the way the central bolt (without forcing or it will break!!) then screw back a 1/8 turn.

Take 2 screw drivers or xdrivers that fits through the slits of the outdrives, hold them with one hand and try turning the diff with over hand, if it slips screw a little more, but it probably won't at 1/8th of a turn, so for yourself, unscrew a little and try again you will see that there is a tiny amount to screw/unscrew to get the point where it is slipping or not.

Now you have learn how your diff works, so reset it as to have no slip whatsoever and refit in car, after 10/15mn racing, recheck your diff to see if it slips or not by holding the left wheel with the spur gear and turn the right wheel, it might need to get a tiny amount of screwing.

roger999

iTrader: (13)

so how far i understand, that rear spool should not move when i block by hand one wheel and diff pulley??? and when will be trying to turn secon wheel it should not move at all??? a thought it should move little bit thats why is damaged

Chaz955i

iTrader: (5)

Not sure if you mistyped but the spool (the part that for all intents is locked) goes in the front. The diff ( the part that lets the wheels move independently) goes in the back. It can be tough to get right because one person's idea of hard to turn is easy to another. Again, assuming the diff rings and balls are in good shape, go with Associated's instructions, lock a wheel and spur and see the force it takes to move the other wheel. Now you have a baseline. The diff will loosen a tiny bit with some use. You should only have to tighten it a fraction to get it back where it should be and assuming everything is good you probably won't have to look at it for awhile unless you run in very dirty conditions.

The damage you described sounds more like a diff that was too loose. The slip generates heat in the rings and diff balls which will melt the pulley. It doesn't take long.

roger999

iTrader: (13)

Ok so, the point when that is ok is when is set between wont turn and can turn. I hope
Will change pads and balls anyway, just in case, i think they are ok but leave it for spare.
And im talking about rear differential sorry

olly986

You just need to change your balls, for the pads, just turn them around !!

And do not mix Spool: front very little to no play and diff: loose play when not held on one side, but no movement when one side and spur gear is held together.

sandsurfer

iTrader: (20)

I have read over half of this thread from the beginning. Quite a few posts on recommendations to fix tweaks in chassis and tried all the recommendations. I still have a problem. I disassembled everything and started from the beginning (uggh). Started with rear, everything good, no tweak. Then went to front, everything good till I tighten the shock tower screws, then get a .11mm tweak in the right front. Am I missing something. Wrong sequence of tightening? Tightening too much, not enough? or is this amount of tweak insignificant?

Thanks in advance, Gary

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

The latter. .11mm = .004". You'll never tell a difference with that little tweak, and I'd venture to say that is prob. as good or better then most. Time to run it and enjoy!!
Case and point...my Hudy setup board is out .006.

azz187

iTrader: (1)

I'm also finding the same tweak issues with my TC6. I think if you're going to get super anal about the tweak on your tc6 it's going to do your head in!
I've found if I loosen off the spur gear or take off the belts the tweak will go. So it looks like my belts are twisting my chassis. Also be carefull when mounting your servo as this can cause some chassis tweak.

Anyway I'd say the tweak problem is the most fustrating think about the TC6..

gpm-parts.com

ya, I just forget about the tweak and use a tweak station to setup the spring. Then do the droop according to the "tweaked" chassis..... end up the front spring collar one side is .2-.3mm lower..... But it drive ok.

big al

iTrader: (10)

I know I'm gonna catch hell for this, but here we go....

I rarely ever bother to set tweak. Literally EVER. In my mind if i hit just one thing or even a bump in the pavement wrong, bam tweaked. In an imperfect world and surface, tweak seems like circular logic. "I'm gonna reset my tweak so that my car will turn and handle almost perfectly on surfaces that are in no way near perfect nor flat." It's like drying your swim shorts right before you jump in the pool. Call me crazy. You should sweat you contact patch (camber). Hasn't let me down yet.

roger999

iTrader: (13)

ok my rear differential is built again (used front pulley from slipper for now). And now when i want to move wheels without blocking spool and one wheel, just to check how they move, so they dont move freely like b4 i can feel there little resistance. Is that ok? Can i adjust it little bit with one or second way or no? I mean to move more freely or to get more resistance?

sandsurfer

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for the replies. Before there was a response here I was able to get it down to .6mm after re-doing the top plate a few times. Would have been nice for an even quicker reply than there was, would have save me time and hair pulling. Tomorrow will be the maiden voyage.

Gary

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

You need to check your numbers. My first post was to what you claimed was .11mm tweak, now you "got it down to" .6mm which is 5 times more tweak then you posted you had. Was that supposed to be 1.1mm? If so that is way too much and disregard what I said, in fact .6mm is on the edge of what most serious racers would allow.

roger999

iTrader: (13)

Ok i have found on youtube movie how to do it properly and now i know! Thanks guys for everything! Now im at home

roger999

iTrader: (13)

how much force should i use to try turn wheel??? because if i was trying hard it was slipping but if not hard it wasn't slipping that gear seems to be hard to work with it!