kobiwan

iTrader: (12)

Well, I did it. I ordered one. Does the kit come with a servo saver or do I have to buy one seperate?

VAzRACER

iTrader: (17)

The saver is built into the steering so you just use a standard servo arm that comes with the kit.

Johncho

It comes with one.

spongerX

I'm using a Robinson Racing 87T 48P spur ok. I run a 24T pinion and I can access all the motor screws ok with the RR spur. At the extreme ends of the motor mount if I was using the smallest or largest pinion possible with this 87T spur I would not be able to access the motor mount screw behind the spur.

I find the stock 87T spur is really soft and get's chewed up running outdoor asphalt. The RR super machined spurs last a lot longer. Interestingly the diameter of the RR 87T 48P spur is smaller than the stock 87T 48P spur.

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Can I hear some 17.5 Tekin setups and gearing and temps.

I run 6.4FDR,10deg endbell timing, 50 boost, 14 turbo. ANd comes in at 1500 RPM to 15K. Seems the fastest here.But runs 180-190 after a 6 minute race.I never tried any different gear ratio.Im hearing some ideas but would like to hear yours. Seems pretty fast but it could be better.

Thanks Pete

hacker

iTrader: (141)

it's quite simply, if its running too hot, bring the boost down.

1500 is too low in my opinion. I would go at least 4k as your starting rpm.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

I'm sure others will address this also, but first how big is the track? What motor are you running?

I would start with 6.8 to 7.0 on FDR
40 Boost
2000 (on the low side) to 2800 on the RPM
0 deg on the endbell
Then check temp...
If you need a little more, then 1 or 2 marks add on the end bell.
what is your ramp? start around 2.0
What is your turbo delay? start around .14
What is your THROTTLE PROFILE? start at 4 or 5
What is your Throttle Minimum?, this is very nice feature, this is punch when you apply throttle, and it can help you get out the corner...

This is an excellent read: http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire_RS.html

Also the Tekin thread is here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9360453

Hope this helps...

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Can anyone tell me, when adding the Anti-sway bar to both front and back, I understand you need to adjust so they when you pick one side, it will raise the other side at the same distance, measured with calipers, but do you also need to have the same measurement between front and back?

Currently the back on both sides is at 30.3mm, but the front is at 36.5mm on both sides. Should both the front and back be at the same measurement? And what are others running for a measurement?

olly986

I am going to try to explain my way.

Remove wheels and shock absorbers and work on a flat surface. lift left side (rear) wishbone and put something high enough so that it will keep pressure on opposite side and lift the other wishbone (I use a screw driver handle for exemple), mesure with a droop tool, then do the same the opposite side, you need to get the same mesurement on both side, if you don't, screw or unscrew the sway bar (antiroll bar) until you get the same on both side.

Hope this is clear enough, repeat the same on front.
I do not necesseraly checked if front and rear are same but by using the same tool, I guess it is pretty close.

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

Congrats. You will not be disappointed. I like mine more every time I get to take it out. It is WAAAY better than my TCX was.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Perfect... I was not sure if front to back had to be the same. Many thanks....

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Interesting to read this rollbar theme. Did you do something to prevent the rollbar from moving left to right? I would think this can affect its outcome, too...

I never did anything to adjust it before. Just mounted it.

Rick Hohwart

A lot of the team guys will take the aluminum roll bar links and cut the ball off. Then you slide the resulting collars on the roll bar so that they sit between the bulkheads. Then you center the roll bar, slide the collars so to the bulkheads and tighten them down making sure there is still a little bit of play. The roll bars will operate correctly and not slide left or right.


To adjust I use a similar technique to Olly. First I would start with equal droop left to right at the setting you plan to use. and begin with sway bar links that are equal.

With the shocks off the car, I flip it upside down and lift one arm so that it bottoms out on the droop screw and not how much the other side sags. Then I'll do the other side and adjust the links so that the sag is equal on both sides.

This has worked for me but anything that assures equal action on bot sides is ok.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tip. Now I know what to do!

EDIT: The anti-roll-bar-pivot is just available in a complete anti-roll-bar-set. And there are just two of them in it. Which means I need to buy two sets (around 30€) and just for four anti-roll-bar-pivots... That is not worth it. Does somebody have a source for anti-roll-bar-pivots without balls?

olly986

I did not cut the balls like Rick mentionned but bought some collar with a grub screw and fitted one on each inside of bulkhead like explain.

The play is way to high and does upset your set up.

Just make sure that there is a bit of play not to lock the sway bar (antiroll bar)

I forgot to mention in my explanation to remove the shock absorbers, but Rick corrected this in his. (and I did too)

I can take a pic if needed of my car.