20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
05-11-2011, 05:20 AM
#2536
A wider front track should reduce the amount of steering. Looking at the rest of the setup (front springs much stiffer than rear, front oil much thicker than rear) I'm guessing that reducing steering was a priority. These settings would also help to reduce grip-roll.
The change of shock position is probably to account for the wishbones moving outwards, although I guess you really need a hole half-way between A and B to get the shocks back where they would be with a narrower track width.
I've been tempted to space the TC6 out myself (both front and rear) as it runs at about 184mm out of the box. Has anyone else tried this?
The change of shock position is probably to account for the wishbones moving outwards, although I guess you really need a hole half-way between A and B to get the shocks back where they would be with a narrower track width.
I've been tempted to space the TC6 out myself (both front and rear) as it runs at about 184mm out of the box. Has anyone else tried this?
05-11-2011, 05:27 AM
#2537
A wider front track should reduce the amount of steering. Looking at the rest of the setup (front springs much stiffer than rear, front oil much thicker than rear) I'm guessing that reducing steering was a priority. These settings would also help to reduce grip-roll.
The change of shock position is probably to account for the wishbones moving outwards, although I guess you really need a hole half-way between A and B to get the shocks back where they would be with a narrower track width.
I've been tempted to space the TC6 out myself (both front and rear) as it runs at about 184mm out of the box. Has anyone else tried this?
The change of shock position is probably to account for the wishbones moving outwards, although I guess you really need a hole half-way between A and B to get the shocks back where they would be with a narrower track width.
I've been tempted to space the TC6 out myself (both front and rear) as it runs at about 184mm out of the box. Has anyone else tried this?
05-11-2011, 09:55 AM
#2538
Tech Regular
Hi All,
On that new setup the main reason why I did go wider is because I was trying to get more stability as the car was very grabby. This track is particular but I am positive that this will be a good setup for any other asphalt track because it did have very good steering.
Going inside on the front arm will generaly give you more steering mid corner. The 70 wt oil on the inside actually still feels thinner than let say 55 on the outside with the shock being so far in it makes the shock feel a lot softer. I had 2 cars I was playing with there and one of them had something close to my regular setup and both of them had about the same amount of steering but the new setup was much easier to drive.
On that new setup the main reason why I did go wider is because I was trying to get more stability as the car was very grabby. This track is particular but I am positive that this will be a good setup for any other asphalt track because it did have very good steering.
Going inside on the front arm will generaly give you more steering mid corner. The 70 wt oil on the inside actually still feels thinner than let say 55 on the outside with the shock being so far in it makes the shock feel a lot softer. I had 2 cars I was playing with there and one of them had something close to my regular setup and both of them had about the same amount of steering but the new setup was much easier to drive.
05-11-2011, 07:11 PM
#2539
bad points
hi guys just wanting to know want are the bad points with this car as i have had 1 tc5 and 3 tc5r kits never run but built and every kit i had things missing not taped right etc so i sold them straight away i must be totally unlucky or there workmanship is bad.I have been running xray kits from 008-11 kits for awhile now and never any problem with parts or workmanship.so has things picked up with the new kit or are problems still there.im keen as on getting a tc6 but had a bad run with the older kits.thanks
05-11-2011, 07:40 PM
#2541
hi guys just wanting to know want are the bad points with this car as i have had 1 tc5 and 3 tc5r kits never run but built and every kit i had things missing not taped right etc so i sold them straight away i must be totally unlucky or there workmanship is bad.I have been running xray kits from 008-11 kits for awhile now and never any problem with parts or workmanship.so has things picked up with the new kit or are problems still there.im keen as on getting a tc6 but had a bad run with the older kits.thanks
05-11-2011, 09:32 PM
#2543
Mick, which roll center blocks are you running and how much droop are you looking for? Also how are you measuring your shocks?
The shocks on my car measure 63mm measured from the top of the shock cap to the bottom of the lower mounting ball end.
I am on A3 roll centers F/R. If you go lower, you would start having trouble without unscrewing them (as a matter of fact mine are lengthened a bit). Are you sure you are not on the A (lower) hole with like a 1 or 0 block? This would make it hard for the shocks to be long enough, even at 67mm.
The shocks on my car measure 63mm measured from the top of the shock cap to the bottom of the lower mounting ball end.
I am on A3 roll centers F/R. If you go lower, you would start having trouble without unscrewing them (as a matter of fact mine are lengthened a bit). Are you sure you are not on the A (lower) hole with like a 1 or 0 block? This would make it hard for the shocks to be long enough, even at 67mm.
05-11-2011, 11:34 PM
#2544
Tech Initiate
05-12-2011, 05:59 AM
#2545
Mick, which roll center blocks are you running and how much droop are you looking for? Also how are you measuring your shocks?
The shocks on my car measure 63mm measured from the top of the shock cap to the bottom of the lower mounting ball end.
I am on A3 roll centers F/R. If you go lower, you would start having trouble without unscrewing them (as a matter of fact mine are lengthened a bit). Are you sure you are not on the A (lower) hole with like a 1 or 0 block? This would make it hard for the shocks to be long enough, even at 67mm.
The shocks on my car measure 63mm measured from the top of the shock cap to the bottom of the lower mounting ball end.
I am on A3 roll centers F/R. If you go lower, you would start having trouble without unscrewing them (as a matter of fact mine are lengthened a bit). Are you sure you are not on the A (lower) hole with like a 1 or 0 block? This would make it hard for the shocks to be long enough, even at 67mm.
Last edited by mickrcarver; 05-12-2011 at 06:49 AM.
05-12-2011, 07:47 AM
#2546
Yes, this is the problem. You are on the lower hole. Kit settings are for the upper hole with the 2 dot blocks. This is why you can't get enough droop. You can however look for a longer 4.3mm ball cup for the shock, or unscrew the ones on your car a little bit more.
The 3 hole blocks have a higher roll center by 1mm than the 2 dots. I theory, a lower roll center will create more lateral roll which in turn generates more grip, but this is only to a degree. With low roll centers you have you run stiffer springs and this causes the suspension to have less road compliance, which in turn takes away forward bite on your car.
Ultimately, roll centers can all be made to work, and yes, there are certain ones that will optimize your car to the particular track and grip level. The most important part of roll centers though is to match your roll stiffness to your track conditions. ie, low roll centers with stiff springs and high roll centers with soft springs.
And the track I run on is medium to medium high grip. The roll center blocks I use have worked on high grip carpet and on asphalt. The majority of set-ups use even higher roll centers with the 0 block on the upper hole (B hole). A2 is perhaps even a little bit too low, even on low grip.
The 3 hole blocks have a higher roll center by 1mm than the 2 dots. I theory, a lower roll center will create more lateral roll which in turn generates more grip, but this is only to a degree. With low roll centers you have you run stiffer springs and this causes the suspension to have less road compliance, which in turn takes away forward bite on your car.
Ultimately, roll centers can all be made to work, and yes, there are certain ones that will optimize your car to the particular track and grip level. The most important part of roll centers though is to match your roll stiffness to your track conditions. ie, low roll centers with stiff springs and high roll centers with soft springs.
And the track I run on is medium to medium high grip. The roll center blocks I use have worked on high grip carpet and on asphalt. The majority of set-ups use even higher roll centers with the 0 block on the upper hole (B hole). A2 is perhaps even a little bit too low, even on low grip.
05-12-2011, 02:21 PM
#2548
Anyone have a setup for low grip asphalt 17.5 blinky?
05-12-2011, 02:56 PM
#2549
Stock set-up is really pretty good. I would just increase the rear toe to either 3 or 3.5 degrees and maybe change rear oil to 30 or 35wt and you should be very close. This what we have done to the cars of the guys running blinky at our local track and their cars run really well.
thanx