20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
01-29-2011, 03:13 PM
#1621
01-29-2011, 03:36 PM
#1622
Are you guys who are running the Savox running boosted classes with Tekin speed controls?
The servo seems crazy fast, but as soon as I put my car on the track I loose my boost. Cycling the car will reset it for a breif period. I changed out everything in the car (refusing to believe the servo could be the cause) and then the servo to fix the issue, and replacing the servo brings back the problem.
When I built my second TC6 I tried it again and same issue... its wierd, not a total cut (like a lipo cut off) the car still drives, just no boost....
Per your question, i have never heard a louder servo, and it almost never shuts up, in any of the cars I have seen them in (2 or 3 at our local track).
-b
The servo seems crazy fast, but as soon as I put my car on the track I loose my boost. Cycling the car will reset it for a breif period. I changed out everything in the car (refusing to believe the servo could be the cause) and then the servo to fix the issue, and replacing the servo brings back the problem.
When I built my second TC6 I tried it again and same issue... its wierd, not a total cut (like a lipo cut off) the car still drives, just no boost....
Per your question, i have never heard a louder servo, and it almost never shuts up, in any of the cars I have seen them in (2 or 3 at our local track).
-b
01-29-2011, 05:52 PM
#1623
Maybe helpful
Not sure if this has been brought up lately, but I was having issues with my right rear bulk head having poorly threaded holes. The bulk head was stripped on one hole and on the bottom side as well. I actually had a screw back out during a race and fall out (which I check before each run). So I changed my M3X14 to M3X16 for a little more bite when holding on the A arms. For the chassis underneath to the bulk head I used M3X8 instead of the M3X5, but some 8's didnt fit, because of inconsistant depths of the treaded holes.
01-29-2011, 06:14 PM
#1624
I 'messaged' Hobbycraft through their website and they do have kits and they are now listed on the internet. The problem is that they are for sale at (CDN) $399.99 + (quoted) ~$45 shipping to the US.
I just got mine from Ultimate Hobbies in CA, but they are now out of kits....
Sorry I can't be of more assistance to those looking for kits.
-Drew
01-29-2011, 07:04 PM
#1625
RC Hobbies in Woodenville WA has one on the shelf
01-29-2011, 09:05 PM
#1626
01-30-2011, 08:39 AM
#1628
Tech Initiate
little help!
I'd like to get an associated hex wrench that fits the larger hex bolts (chassis bolts, ball studs, etc) for the TC6. Can someone tell me the size of this wrench?
I think it is the 5/64" (blue handle) but I'm just not sure. I'd get the whole set, but $10 sounds better than $50! I've recently discovered that the allen wrenches included with the kit are pretty worthless.
Thanks again folks!
I think it is the 5/64" (blue handle) but I'm just not sure. I'd get the whole set, but $10 sounds better than $50! I've recently discovered that the allen wrenches included with the kit are pretty worthless.
Thanks again folks!
01-30-2011, 09:14 AM
#1629
It's metric now. 2mm for the majority of the fasteners.
01-30-2011, 09:34 AM
#1630
Tech Initiate
I've split one of the tie rod ends/eyelets. Where to get them in the UK? or will another make fit? I know RPM fit but struggling to see them in stock as well!
01-30-2011, 09:52 AM
#1631
Tech Initiate
That's what I initially thought, but 2mm isn't even included in the full set: 1 each of .050", 1/16", 1.5mm, 5/64", 3/32", 2.5mm, 3mm.
Actually, TA doesn't have a 2mm listed on their entire site.
Actually, TA doesn't have a 2mm listed on their entire site.
Last edited by cvlooper; 01-30-2011 at 10:10 AM.
01-30-2011, 11:13 AM
#1633
Has this not been mentioned on here yet? Wow.
OK the TC6 drivers here in the UK have been running the top decked flipped and not using countersunk screws as intended.
The countersunk screws create a 'jamming' effect which affects the consistancy of the flex. If you think about it the countersunk screws are 'locking' the top deck in place. If you use the pictured washers or just button heads it smooths the flex out as it can slide around freely.
It makes a huge difference on flast flowing corners. Makes the car rotate better.
First thing I changed.
OK the TC6 drivers here in the UK have been running the top decked flipped and not using countersunk screws as intended.
The countersunk screws create a 'jamming' effect which affects the consistancy of the flex. If you think about it the countersunk screws are 'locking' the top deck in place. If you use the pictured washers or just button heads it smooths the flex out as it can slide around freely.
It makes a huge difference on flast flowing corners. Makes the car rotate better.
First thing I changed.
Who needs more flex can leave out the buttonhead screws of the top deck. This really increases flex and makes the car easier and very consistent to drive, but again was today 1 tenth slower.
01-30-2011, 11:30 AM
#1634
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I tried this today on a high grip carpet track. I found it a little more difficult to drive and it costs about one or two tenth. But this may only count on a high grip surface.
Who needs more flex can leave out the buttonhead screws of the top deck. This really increases flex and makes the car easier and very consistent to drive, but again was today 1 tenth slower.
Who needs more flex can leave out the buttonhead screws of the top deck. This really increases flex and makes the car easier and very consistent to drive, but again was today 1 tenth slower.
01-30-2011, 12:15 PM
#1635
Please could some one help me i
am looking or the advice on easing
ball studs and thought it was this
thread.
Thanks a lot
am looking or the advice on easing
ball studs and thought it was this
thread.
Thanks a lot