rc car guy

read the last two pages...

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

I took a closer look and if the front belt is too tight, it will rub on the top deck especially if the diff is low in the bulkheads.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Hi Danny, you should have both on hand for different setup choices. Either will work fine but the diff will turn better and smoother in lower power setups. The spool will give better on power grip and feel for higher power motors.

flag72

iTrader: (18)

thanks YoDog

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

got some tc6 parts for sale
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post12898559

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

Hi guys,
I got a second hand car a while back in got a number of yokomo diffs with it.
I went to install one the other day and I found the hole in the out drive is smaller then the std associated one 6.15 not 6.35 (1/4). The ball on the end of the axle binds up. My question is ?
Is this a typical problem with these diffs. Or are there different out drive cups from yokomo.
What do you guys do to fix it?
I was just going to drill them out to 1/4. But the hard anodizing will be removed..
I do have a few associated diffs so I rebuilt one of them for now.

Steve

rc car guy

are you talking about the out drive where the cva goes into the diff? the only screw that is on the outside of the SPOOL is the one it attaches to the spool out drive with the spool itself, slightly confused at what you asked with the terminology you described it with

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

yes to the first question.
Screw?

Im talkin about a rear diff.
Yokomo Brand.
axle to Diff interface.
Axle binds in drive cup.
ID of drive cup is smaller them Standard TA style.
Simple fix drill out cup from 6.15MM to 6.35mm (or 1/4")
I just wondered if this was typical?
or do Yokomo make other drive cups for a TC6?

I will just drill them out but it will remove the coating.

Steve H

rc car guy

I belivw that the yokomo brand doesnt use the the cva bones so maybe try without it ?

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

This is the same problem we had with the original spec-R gear diff out drives. While machining or drilling them will remove the anodizing, the universals use a plastic blade where contact is made so wear will be minimal. If you have the Associated gear diff, just use them instead.

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

Yes you right the inside is not a wear surface, I just tried drilling one out and it works fine very simple fix. I was thinking I would need to strip the diff and put them up in the lath but. Drill press worked fine, only need a small skim cut. I polished them with some 800 grit in the dremel flapper and look like bought one.
I've got 6 brand new ones with all different weight oils in them and only two Associated so I thought I would get them sorted so I could use them. Anyway all good now.

Thanks guys

jpx

Drilling like you did is what I heard people did before the AE-diff was available. So it should work fine an wear will not be a problem due to drilling.

Jan-Peter

racer034life

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone have the part numbers to convert my Tc6.1 to worlds car. Also does anyone have these parts for sale along with world's main chassis

rc car guy

Its the shock towers and bearing caps along with the chassis thats all ae has this info under 6.1

racer034life

iTrader: (1)

Yes i remember seeing the post on here. But i havent been able to find the post where someone had posted the part numbers for everything.