geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

I would go to 1 and 1 for your camber link positions. Going 7 to 1 on the front should help with the buildup. I also like 1 instead of 3 in the rear, it feels more stable to me.

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

Thanks

The guy who's setup I copied runs modified and does very well

The only difference between our cars is he use 1B roll centers in the rear of both front and back end

So basically (Ft 0B, 1B),(Rr 0B, 1B) so I guess that creates anti-dive?

His car looks in comparison to mine that it drives straighter when on power

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Are you also running modified?

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

Not yet although I usually run 12th modified

I want to get used to working with sedan a little as my TC experience is not as much as 12th

Are there better setups for stock?

An better approach for 17.5?

Thanks

kghills

iTrader: (40)

I use Keven Hebert's 17.5 Super Stock set up from the 2011 IIC on Jason's TC6.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...iicss_2011.pdf
17.5 Blinky class. Large medium bite carpet track for club racing using Sweep Kitty Rug tires. Just tweek your front and rear camber settings to get it to handle to your liking. On high bite carpet tracks we will run a Jaco blue or Sweep 32. Car is fast and solid.

Keith.

mtbboy

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have any experience with the difference between hub toe in and pin angle toe in?
Is there any?

Dave

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

Thanks I'll check that out

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Yeah generally you would run a different setup for stock vs mod.

ChampRC

iTrader: (3)

Hmm could explain some straight line issues I'm having under full power; car veers left (motor side).

Ah good to see Im not the only one that had this problem...Im a noob with dremel tools etc, what bit did you use?

This is what I figured, my hobby shop didnt seem to have any pinions with a shorter shaft than the one I was using...

Anyone one know of any other short shaft pinions they have tried that give significant distance from the belt?

bjanzen

iTrader: (6)

I had the same issue...... When i switched to a D3.... Just took a plastic bag and poked the motor shaft through. Keeps the metal shavings out of motor and bearing. Made the flat long enough that any pinion fits now.

BTW....... I just figured out why newer setups don't work. The 6.1 setups make my TC6 pushy. Just went back to the KHebert setup above and WOW! Car drives MUCH BETTER.

tr1kstanc3

iTrader: (18)

Which dremel bit did you use to grind the shaft?

bjanzen

iTrader: (6)

Just a cut off disc...... Fiber disc..... Held at a low angle

jonu

Any suggestions for where I should start gearing wise for a medium sized track? I haven't had a chance to run it since i'm waiting on a couple of parts but I will be using a 10.5t motor. Currently I have the stock spur coupled with a 20 tooth pinion. Does this sound like a decent starting point?

racing_jason

the new set ups wont work unless you are using the new arms. the new arms provide alot more mechanical grip then the old arms do.

Jason

racing_jason

main thing that i find between pin toe and and hub toe is it changes the angle of shock as you shim the pin out to get your toe it moves the shock bottom out making the shock have more lean causing more side bite where the hub toe will increase forward bite and have alot less of a effect on the side bite of the car.

Thanks Jason