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Old 03-27-2013, 09:38 PM   #9031
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Has anyone ever had to sand down the sides of the spur gear to get the darn e-clip to fasten on the spur gear shaft? I've never had so much grief trying to install a spur gear before and my only option appears to sand down the sides of the spur gear, but I'm afraid I might not sand it evenly and cause it to wobble if I'm not careful. Am I missing something here?
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:41 PM   #9032
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Mkimbroughs work fine in tc6.
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:10 PM   #9033
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Bill, I have tried several makes of spurs, and haven't encountered that problem yet. Do you know which brand you are using?
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:57 AM   #9034
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Bill, I have tried several makes of spurs, and haven't encountered that problem yet. Do you know which brand you are using?
Likewise. I've used Kimbrough and Robinson and had no issues fitting either one.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:59 AM   #9035
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Pretty sure it's for Associated, though it was in my pile of parts from back when I used to bash my gold pan RC10 in the 80's as a kid so I can't be certain which brand actually made it, maybe Hot Trick Stuff or Andy's?

I was able to verify all of my 64P gears would fit just fine, perhaps 48P made for slipper clutches are a little thicker?

I do recall seeing a thread where someone had replaced their spur on a Kyosho RB5 and had too much slop to where the slipper pads wouldn't engage properly. It never occurred to me that spurs could have different thicknesses, I assumed it was an industry standard since the beginning of R/C time.

Since I already have several 72T spurs and some 15T and 16T pinions, I figured I would put them to good use as a general starting point, and plan to switch over (purchase) 64P gears once I confirm the temps are golden in the 9.0 - 9.6 FDR range. The 64P gears (Robinson) that I have now are going to give me far too low of a FDR.

I don't think I've seen any car actually put balls in the spur gear anymore so I don't see any harm in grinding off the bevels on one side. I was able to confirm minimum amount of wobble (I've had worse on other cars) and everything fit like a glove after grinding down just the one side:


Last edited by billdelong; 03-28-2013 at 06:21 AM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:56 AM   #9036
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Default Balancing Tires

Hey folks,

Are there any good tutorials on how to properly balance tires for touring cars? In the past I've just used a hub with a drive axle removed, but this is cumbersome. I'm thinking of buying/building something that would use something like a propeller balancer. I've searched here, but have come up empty so far.

I noticed some of my tires are wearing inconsistently and I'd like to rule out balancing as a culprit since they don't appear to be out of round by much.

Thanks!
Tommy
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:11 AM   #9037
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Hey folks,

Are there any good tutorials on how to properly balance tires for touring cars? In the past I've just used a hub with a drive axle removed, but this is cumbersome. I'm thinking of buying/building something that would use something like a propeller balancer. I've searched here, but have come up empty so far.

I noticed some of my tires are wearing inconsistently and I'd like to rule out balancing as a culprit since they don't appear to be out of round by much.

Thanks!
Tommy
I would invest in a balancer and some lead tape. Just be sure the balancer can do TC wheels
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:45 PM   #9038
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Default building tc6.1 worlds

Ive been reading this thread and found something about polishing the ballstuds with steel wool (I think) and then use a dremel with polishing wheel? Cant seem to find the page its on. Im new to rc tech and any help appreciated.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:13 AM   #9039
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Ive been reading this thread and found something about polishing the ballstuds with steel wool (I think) and then use a dremel with polishing wheel? Cant seem to find the page its on. Im new to rc tech and any help appreciated.
The main idea is to polish off the black oxide coating as it makes the fitment a bit too tight. I usually just insert the threaded end into my cordless dremel. Turn it on at a low to medium speed an press either some scotch bright pad or steel wool against the ball stud and essentially clean off the black oxide. It only takes a few seconds. If you want to get crazy, you can also use some mothers polish and buff them to a brilliant shine but there's no real need for that IMO.

Don't make me start a how to video series in this stuff.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:03 AM   #9040
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Hey folks,

Are there any good tutorials on how to properly balance tires for touring cars? In the past I've just used a hub with a drive axle removed, but this is cumbersome. I'm thinking of buying/building something that would use something like a propeller balancer. I've searched here, but have come up empty so far.

I noticed some of my tires are wearing inconsistently and I'd like to rule out balancing as a culprit since they don't appear to be out of round by much.

Thanks!
Tommy
Dubro Tru-Spin prop balancer and some non-hardening modeling clay from Hobby Lobby.
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:23 PM   #9041
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I had a 20 years pause in driving RC cars and made my comeback last year with a Asso 1/12. I need to drive and to excercise a lot, so I bought now the TC 6.1. Great cat, but I still have to understand it.
The Roll Out was on a carpet track. I had no grip at the back.
So, what tires would you recomend on a carpet track?
Is there a chart of ride tires which are good for which surface? What does the RE number mean?
Thank you
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:32 PM   #9042
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
The main idea is to polish off the black oxide coating as it makes the fitment a bit too tight. I usually just insert the threaded end into my cordless dremel. Turn it on at a low to medium speed an press either some scotch bright pad or steel wool against the ball stud and essentially clean off the black oxide. It only takes a few seconds. If you want to get crazy, you can also use some mothers polish and buff them to a brilliant shine but there's no real need for that IMO.

Don't make me start a how to video series in this stuff.
Thanks YoDog,

This is my 2nd build and any information is great. I sanded, ca glue, and painted the edges followed by more glue and sanding. Looks amazing but time consuming task I think is worth the wait. I received 2 of the same side bearing caps so AE is sending me the opposite side, great customer service. Im starting the build this weekend and was wondering about the green slime for the shock o-ring. Put just a little around the whole ring or dont be shy with it? Thanks
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:21 PM   #9043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBorchid View Post
Ive been reading this thread and found something about polishing the ballstuds with steel wool (I think) and then use a dremel with polishing wheel? Cant seem to find the page its on. Im new to rc tech and any help appreciated.
Not sure why everyone always wants to start grinding/"polishing" on the balls. Spend a couple bucks on a 4.7mm ball reamer or do the notch in an old ballstud and then Dremel trick - end of problem. Cheaper to replace the ends than the balls themselves.

Green slime is your friend.
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:27 AM   #9044
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Originally Posted by LasagnaCat View Post
Not sure why everyone always wants to start grinding/"polishing" on the balls. Spend a couple bucks on a 4.7mm ball reamer or do the notch in an old ballstud and then Dremel trick - end of problem. Cheaper to replace the ends than the balls themselves.

Green slime is your friend.
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:11 PM   #9045
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Always the same... Just take your pliers and sqeeze the turnbuckle eyelets two times when installed and everything should be fine. Really no need to buy tools here.
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