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Team Associated TC6 Thread

Old 03-11-2013, 06:53 PM
  #8926  
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Originally Posted by ChadB.
I had some disappointment this last weekend with my 6.1 WE. Every single run that I did, I always came back in with at least one busted blade. I used up about every single blade I had in my box and wasn't sure if I was going to get through the entire weekend, then I would need to replace the outdrives on the spool because they would torn up as well. Does anyone else have these same problems I have? I have not had these issues with other older cars that I had which why I have some concerns.
Stock no problem. In mod you'll go thru those blades and outdrives every run. Go with the AE slipper spool.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:59 PM
  #8927  
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Originally Posted by shan74
hi
having my 6.1 camberlink position v3 front and back has very little thread in the ballcups ,as it the longest setting for the camberlinks .is there a upgrade camberlink (longer)available .i heard someone at the track say that you can use the tc6 camberlinks as they are a bit longer .any help appreciated .
shan
Just measure the tie rod and order a longer set. Associated makes many different lengths and they are labeled as such. I bought like 3 different lengths to accommodate different setup scenarios.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:01 PM
  #8928  
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Originally Posted by LEM C
Stock no problem. You'll go thru those blades and outdrives every run. Go with the AE slipper spool.
I can honestly say that I have never, ever broken a blade on either of my TC6.1 cars. is it possible that you are running the car too narrow? This can bind the drive shafts thus causing premature failure.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:12 PM
  #8929  
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Originally Posted by YoDog
I can honestly say that I have never, ever broken a blade on either of my TC6.1 cars. is it possible that you are running the car too narrow? This can bind the drive shafts thus causing premature failure.
I have never broken a blade either. Maybe a bad setup?
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:05 PM
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Chad, have you tried our outdrives? They don't go through blades as much because the blade is not captured inside the outdrive like the stock units. We are out of stock until the end of the month, but they are much better than the stock units. Plus they last a very long time.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:06 PM
  #8931  
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The blades break when you run with tracks with hard barriers, especially carpet tracks. This is not uncommon.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:09 PM
  #8932  
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tc6 and jeff cuff @ horsham rc
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:12 PM
  #8933  
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
The blades break when you run with tracks with hard barriers, especially carpet tracks. This is not uncommon.
Cristian, did you get my email about your short ball studs?
Is there a better way to reach you? Phone maybe?

Thanks
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:17 PM
  #8934  
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So sorry Rick, yes I did. Just getting ready to go on a family trip and totally dropped the ball. I'll set you up with something in a bit.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:29 PM
  #8935  
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
So sorry Rick, yes I did. Just getting ready to go on a family trip and totally dropped the ball. I'll set you up with something in a bit.
Ok cool,
Have a great trip!

Are you going to Denver next month?
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:32 PM
  #8936  
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The first batch of servo saver cams are heading to the anodizer!
I got the fixturing figured out so I will be able to make more without much delay.
I'm a happy camper now!
The aluminum cam only weighs about 1 gram more than the plastic part. Just in case you were wondering.

Look! still got all my fingers
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC6 Thread-20130311_202402-comp.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-20130311_202421-comp.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-20130311_202611-comp.jpg  

Last edited by YoDog; 03-11-2013 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:00 PM
  #8937  
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Originally Posted by YoDog
The first batch of servo saver cams are heading to the anodizer!
I got the fixturing figured out so I will be able to make more without much delay.
I'm a happy camper now!
The aluminum cam only weighs about 1 gram more than the plastic part. Just in case you were wondering.

Look! still got all my fingers
Ready to place an order for one of these! After a few wrecks over the weekend it already cost me a servo... any idea on price yet?
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:11 PM
  #8938  
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Originally Posted by LEM C
Stock no problem. In mod you'll go thru those blades and outdrives every run. Go with the AE slipper spool.
I was running Mod at our Regional race on Carpet. There were a few tight sections where I kept tapping the boards, but never broke a major part like an arm and such. I have had the slipper spool when I had the TC5 and never liked it.

Originally Posted by Night
I have never broken a blade either. Maybe a bad setup?
I currently have the offset blocks on the front plus 1 mill shims too. The axles up front shouldn't be touching at all to cause any binding.

Originally Posted by CristianTabush
Chad, have you tried our outdrives? They don't go through blades as much because the blade is not captured inside the outdrive like the stock units. We are out of stock until the end of the month, but they are much better than the stock units. Plus they last a very long time.
Hey Christian, no I haven't tried your outdrives, but it sounds like I need too. I wouldn't be surprised if that cured it, your products are always top notch. I will have to buy them when get them in stock.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bmannokc
Ready to place an order for one of these! After a few wrecks over the weekend it already cost me a servo... any idea on price yet?
Stop hittin stuff...lol

Joking aside, the cams will be $13 each shipped but only $10 when purchased with the V2 servo mount. That would be $30 shipped total. I am working on getting some low profile ball studs to include but for now, you will have to use the stock low profile ball and grind off about 2mm of thread. This is to give clearance between the cam and the top deck.
Stay tuned for some new upgrades I have in the works. Once the prototypes have been tested, I'll spill the beans.
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:03 AM
  #8940  
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014
Aluminum/titanium screws can cut ~20g. Make sure your wires (power wires & servo wires) are as short as possible, this can be 10-20g if your wires are long. Make sure you have a light weight body, in protoform bodies the LW versions are about 20g lighter, and your car drives better too
Originally Posted by jha07
My TC6.1 is under the 1380 gram roar limit. I had to add 14g to get it over 1380g. I'm running a light weight body and a tekin rs pro. Everything else on my car is pretty normal. I even have a heatsink and 2 fans.
Originally Posted by CristianTabush
The TC6.1 is a heavy car. A lot of it has to do with the construction of the A Arms and suspension blocks. It will be very hard to get it down to 1350, but aside from the Screws and body, 13AWG wire is more than enough for your 13.5 motor and will drop some grams.

We sell aluminum Ball ends for the TC6 which are lighter than what AE offers and can add up to 5-10G of weight savings too.

Lastly, I remove the upper plastic bumper brace on my cars and use a CF brace from Tamiya or some washers to hold the Foam bumper in place. While this puts the front end of the chassis at a bit of a risk, it does shave about 8G.



All in all I have gotten my RSD6 to about 1355-1360G Ready to Race with a 4.5 Motor (heavier than stock). It's not easy, but it's doable.

Thks at all, I'm working to reduce the weight with your tips.
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