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Old 02-09-2013, 09:27 PM
  #8731  
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
i have an old LRP 17.5 and it is time for a new motor. What do you guys recommend for a 17.5 NT motor for our cars.
I heard good things about the Reedy Sonic motors as well but you can't go wrong with a D3, D3.5, RevTech or Speed Passion MMM series. There are a lot of good motors out there but your driving style and track layout can have an effect on determining which works best for you.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
I heard good things about the Reedy Sonic motors as well but you can't go wrong with a D3, D3.5, RevTech or Speed Passion MMM series. There are a lot of good motors out there but your driving style and track layout can have an effect on determining which works best for you.
What about rotors? Would I need to change out the rotor on any of these when running NT? Lastly of the ones mentioned I like smooth power delivery as you can tell from my dumb questions I am fairly novice.

In off road I run Reedy and LRP motors. Just not sure if those are the best for on road and I am definitely not as good at on road.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
What about rotors? Would I need to change out the rotor on any of these when running NT? Lastly of the ones mentioned I like smooth power delivery as you can tell from my dumb questions I am fairly novice.

In off road I run Reedy and LRP motors. Just not sure if those are the best for on road and I am definitely not as good at on road.
Well considering that you are not running at an expert level, you may not need to worry about getting every drop of power available. The stock rotors should do fine but if you want more torque, get the 12.5mm rotor as a tuning aid. Pretty much all the top manufacturers have them available and some even have the larger rotors as an alternate stock model. If you are happy with the Reedy motors, go with that. They work just fine in TC. I'm a Trinity guy myself...to each his own.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:48 PM
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FYI, the Reedy's come stock with the 12.5mm rotor, 2 12.3mm rotors are available though.
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:13 PM
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I though i'd post this here too

I have recently done the Exotek Duel Bellcrank conversion. I now have a huge amount of front end grip.

Unfortunately the car is now excessively Loose Neutral Power, will do a 180 no problem. I have tried softening the rear, stiffening the front (including swaybars), rasing and lowering droop on both ends, lighter oil in the rear gear diff (spool front), lowering roll centre rear – raising the front, rasing the front high and lowering the rear.

Im using sweep 32s on med grip outdoor asphalt

Has anybody else had this issue and were/how you able to sort it out?

*edit
Camber- F -1, R -1.5
castor - 4deg
tow F 1mm, rear 2.5 total
ride hight F 5mm, R5.5mm
droop 2mm all around

Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:28 PM
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Should have gone with the Reflex chassis! Lol

I had the same problem after converting to an RSD chassis, but simply changing (rear) diff from 1300 to 2000 weight solved it.

Someone running the Exotek conversion will have to chime in with a setup for spring rate and mounts
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Monsta View Post
I though i'd post this here too

I have recently done the Exotek Duel Bellcrank conversion. I now have a huge amount of front end grip.

Unfortunately the car is now excessively Loose Neutral Power, will do a 180 no problem. I have tried softening the rear, stiffening the front (including swaybars), rasing and lowering droop on both ends, lighter oil in the rear gear diff (spool front), lowering roll centre rear raising the front, rasing the front high and lowering the rear.

Im using sweep 32s on med grip outdoor asphalt

Has anybody else had this issue and were/how you able to sort it out?

*edit
Camber- F -1, R -1.5
castor - 4deg
tow F 1mm, rear 2.5 total
ride hight F 5mm, R5.5mm
droop 2mm all around

Thanks!
Try making your rear camber link longer or shortening the front.
Jason
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:02 PM
  #8738  
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The results !

This is my car (without shocks for setup), Yesterday I took 2nd on qualify and 1st on A-Final.
I use box setup with a minor changes, and I was surprised with consistent times on Final.
Our track is "parking lot" type and we're using 10.5 boosted.

Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
I don't know to who you are referring to, but the best ways would be:
1. to drill new holes for the standard battery mounts or
2. to make new battery tape taps from cfk which are redesigned for a shorter battery.

In my 4WS I made new holes for the battery mount and milled a new L-formed cfk part. The servo on the other side prevents the battery from leaving the chassis
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC6 Thread-tc6.1_01.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-tc6.1_02.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-tc6.1_03.jpg  

Last edited by MiTaller-RC; 02-11-2013 at 01:14 PM. Reason: add info
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:21 PM
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ive been racing off-road for 6 years and i just finally bought my first onroad car cant wait!
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by laceup View Post
ive been racing off-road for 6 years and i just finally bought my first onroad car cant wait!
Ditto: I will find out how my on road skills are next week for the first time. I am nervous, feels like going on a first date. LOL I set the car up by reading the posts on here. Figure this will give me a starting point and then go from there.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Monsta View Post
I though i'd post this here too

I have recently done the Exotek Duel Bellcrank conversion. I now have a huge amount of front end grip.

Unfortunately the car is now excessively Loose Neutral Power, will do a 180 no problem. I have tried softening the rear, stiffening the front (including swaybars), rasing and lowering droop on both ends, lighter oil in the rear gear diff (spool front), lowering roll centre rear raising the front, rasing the front high and lowering the rear.

Im using sweep 32s on med grip outdoor asphalt

Has anybody else had this issue and were/how you able to sort it out?

*edit
Camber- F -1, R -1.5
castor - 4deg
tow F 1mm, rear 2.5 total
ride hight F 5mm, R5.5mm
droop 2mm all around

Thanks!
Lighter oil in the rear diff will only give you more steering. What weight oil are you running? I would suggest trying a thicker oil.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jha07 View Post
Lighter oil in the rear diff will only give you more steering.
No. This applies to a front diff. Lighter oil on the rear will create better traction in the rear and can make the car push because it isn't rotating as much.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by kewdawg View Post
No. This applies to a front diff. Lighter oil on the rear will create better traction in the rear and can make the car push because it isn't rotating as much.
Actually, lighter rear oil will give you more steering it will make the car go in to the corner harder, and the car will rotate around the rear end more in the middle.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Actually, lighter rear oil will give you more steering it will make the car go in to the corner harder, and the car will rotate around the rear end more in the middle.
This sounds like the "diffing out" effect, where the diff is too loose and not able to transfer power to the wheels properly.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:38 AM
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The engineers nightmare: Increasing the diff oil weight can make it worse, make it better, or stay the same.
Increasing the diff fluid weight in my car made the back end slightly more lose.
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