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Old 03-12-2012, 01:06 PM   #6166
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
If your running at the C, the last time I was there I was running 16.5's in the front, and 15.5's in the rear. I think I still have the setup sheet from when I was there, I can send you the whole thing if youd like
I agree, 16.5/15.5 is a great combination on asphalt. I also ran long camber links front and rear, but it was a huge track.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:46 PM   #6167
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Originally Posted by d2dap636 View Post
Yea, I'm running @ the C, I am definitly open to any help with setup. Shoot me over what you got.
ygpm
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:43 PM   #6168
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99% of the time you will want to leave these in the standard position. When i lowered these i found that the overall grip was improved because youre lowering the diffs them selfs and you are making the dog bones sit at a different angle. Also as you lower these the car will become more twitchy.
This is what i noticed other people may want to step in and correct me if im wrong.

Jason
Can anyone else add to this?
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:18 PM   #6169
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Default TC6.1 Factory Team Kits

We at ACER Racing are now selling TC6.1 Factory Team Kits for only $359.99, and we also have a full line of ceramic bearings also available for sale. Check them out!
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:31 PM   #6170
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Has anyone ever tried.to use cam B on the front diff or rear or even both at the same time? Any advantages or disadvantages to using them?
I tested for a few races the b cam, however not with diff, it was with spool at front, and ball diff rear, feels good, but not too much, so much better the A cam, even if you´re a loose belt setting....
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:14 AM   #6171
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Can I use the caster blocks from my old tc6 on my Tc6.1

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Old 03-13-2012, 05:40 AM   #6172
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Can I use the caster blocks from my old tc6 on my Tc6.1

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Yes you can. You'll need to add a shim between the block and arm on the outer hinge pin because there will be a little slop there. .25-.3mm is normally enough. 6.1 steering blocks still work too.
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:50 AM   #6173
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Yes you can. You'll need to add a shim between the block and arm on the outer hinge pin because there will be a little slop there. .25-.3mm is normally enough. 6.1 steering blocks still work too.
You have to add a shim with the 6.1 hubs on a 6.1 also. And a grub screw.

Is it possible there is a delay on the 6.1 hubs because they are adding a hole for a grub screw to them?
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:16 AM   #6174
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I tested for a few races the b cam, however not with diff, it was with spool at front, and ball diff rear, feels good, but not too much, so much better the A cam, even if you´re a loose belt setting....
So basically I need to throw the B CAM away. Because it secession no purpose. Man that's so hard to believe .
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:50 AM   #6175
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So basically I need to throw the B CAM away. Because it secession no purpose. Man that's so hard to believe .
Absolutely not, i´m not saying that the b cam doesn´t work!. To me is hard to believe that you ask about things that you can test in base on your track conditions.......
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:12 AM   #6176
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Yes you can. You'll need to add a shim between the block and arm on the outer hinge pin because there will be a little slop there. .25-.3mm is normally enough. 6.1 steering blocks still work too.
Thank you
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:15 AM   #6177
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Absolutely not, i´m not saying that the b cam doesn´t work!. To me is hard to believe that you ask about things that you can test in base on your track conditions.......
We cool bro, You are right I do need to test it out I was just looking for the general answer so I know what I need to expect when I first test it out. I'm still new to touring cars and amazed at how even the smallest adjustment makes such a big difference. I noticed that none of the curent setup sheets for the team drivers never use it and i just wanted to know why.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:29 AM   #6178
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
However, our 15.5lb spring is the most progressive spring we have tested It is stiff initially and becomes much softer as it compresses. I like using it in the rear of my TC on carpet and the front on asphalt.
The RSD 15.5 is my go-to front spring for asphalt. It works great.

On tighter asphalt tracks, Ive found the RSD 15.5 front and AE Silver rear make a very nice combo. They seem to compliment each other very well and result in a car that is well balanced, but doesn't sacrifice response and initial turn-in for mid-corner steering.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:35 AM   #6179
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Are there any coupon codes for the Team Associated site? I would much rather be buying from my local hobby store than paying $9 for shipping for a few plastic parts.

Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:37 AM   #6180
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You have to add a shim with the 6.1 hubs on a 6.1 also. And a grub screw.

Is it possible there is a delay on the 6.1 hubs because they are adding a hole for a grub screw to them?
Easy way around that is to glue the rear insert flush with the c hub then put some glue on the front insert, push it half way in then quickly slide the c hub through the arm. This will push the insert in enough to fit in the arm but keep it out to make up for the gap where the shim would be needed.

I would assume they are fixing the molding issue that resulted in air pockets in every c hub I have seen that broke. After I went through 4 in one day from brushing boards I put the old 6 c's and haven't broke one yet.
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