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Team Associated TC6 Thread

Old 01-02-2012, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Seeds
Newb question- what tuning is there in changing belt tension? Since there are 31 positions for every cam type (tho some are redundant), what's the benefit for one or the other? Is tension directly based on trigger response? There is nothing in the manual. Thanks.
If the belts are too tight, it'll feel like there is "drag brake", and it causes excessive motor heat. It can also cause the back end to kick around if only the rear belt is too tight.

Belts that are too loose are prone to falling off the pulleys under hard braking or acceleration.

I typically like them to feel a little "springy".... basically as loose as you can reasonably get them. Hard to say in a post, and I can't say run camholder in position X because that depends on belt wear and diff location. Have a local hotshoe feel them for you!

Also with lower turn motors I like the belts a hair tighter than usual, because of the extra power! You can run them in this manner for stock speeds for a bit more response..... just don't overdo it!
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by piper48
Got the car build and went together fairly well. No slop on the caster blocks and a little deformity on the gear diff but at least it doesn't leak. I had the opportunity to give it's first shake down on our reconfigured technical 102'x 60's ozite carpet yesterday and I am very pleased on how the car performed. Car is very predictable. I went with box setup at first but over steered too much to my liking. Raised rear roll center and went up 2 holes on the rear shock and thats all it took to get me dialed in. Awesome car compared to my 415 MRE which was also a good car back in the day. Great car Associated has put out.
HI Piper

That's great to hear having the car dialed. I am just curious that if raising the roll center at the rear will make it less stable at the rear? Just wanted to learn more.

Cheers
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cwoods34
If the belts are too tight, it'll feel like there is "drag brake", and it causes excessive motor heat. It can also cause the back end to kick around if only the rear belt is too tight.

Belts that are too loose are prone to falling off the pulleys under hard braking or acceleration.

I typically like them to feel a little "springy".... basically as loose as you can reasonably get them. Hard to say in a post, and I can't say run camholder in position X because that depends on belt wear and diff location. Have a local hotshoe feel them for you!

Also with lower turn motors I like the belts a hair tighter than usual, because of the extra power! You can run them in this manner for stock speeds for a bit more response..... just don't overdo it!
Right on...thanks!
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:54 PM
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Total newb to carpet here. Have been trying the TC6 in VTA and the rear end is super loose on tighter corners. It just wants to do donuts when I let off and turn. I have the kit setup with reflex shock pistons and 40 wt oil in all corners. I cant figure out why it is so loose. Just looking for any pointers or things to try. So far my TC3 is way easier to drive
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by slovanova
Total newb to carpet here. Have been trying the TC6 in VTA and the rear end is super loose on tighter corners. It just wants to do donuts when I let off and turn. I have the kit setup with reflex shock pistons and 40 wt oil in all corners. I cant figure out why it is so loose. Just looking for any pointers or things to try. So far my TC3 is way easier to drive
Hi there

Just my 2 cents, can try the follwings, the order is from less work to more work.

1. stand up the shock more
2. harder spring in front
3. make anti dive
4. up oil wt e.g. 50

The idea is to make lesser weight transfer to the front when throttle off. Hope this help

Cheers
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Warbird
Hi there

Just my 2 cents, can try the follwings, the order is from less work to more work.

1. stand up the shock more
2. harder spring in front
3. make anti dive
4. up oil wt e.g. 50

The idea is to make lesser weight transfer to the front when throttle off. Hope this help

Cheers
Stand up which shocks? I tried the front stood up as well as harder front springs (silver to gold) and that just made things worse. Also tried more rear anti dive and that seemed worse as well. Seemed like nothing I tried helped.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Warbird
HI Piper

That's great to hear having the car dialed. I am just curious that if raising the roll center at the rear will make it less stable at the rear? Just wanted to learn more.

Cheers
As stated, reconfigured/track change so the racing line/groove wasn't established so in some spots/corners the car was still unstable but better.
 
Old 01-03-2012, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by slovanova
Stand up which shocks? I tried the front stood up as well as harder front springs (silver to gold) and that just made things worse. Also tried more rear anti dive and that seemed worse as well. Seemed like nothing I tried helped.
HI There

I would stand up the front shock. The anti dive would be also for front.

If you have tried all then it is beyond my knowledge. May be other fellow racers could help.

Another thing is to try harder tire if possible. As this have also happened to me that trying all mentioned, and still no cure, so at the end change to set of harder tires solve all issues. Yes all 4 tires. Cheers

Cheers

Last edited by Warbird; 01-03-2012 at 01:22 AM. Reason: Additional info
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by slovanova
Total newb to carpet here. Have been trying the TC6 in VTA and the rear end is super loose on tighter corners. It just wants to do donuts when I let off and turn. I have the kit setup with reflex shock pistons and 40 wt oil in all corners. I cant figure out why it is so loose. Just looking for any pointers or things to try. So far my TC3 is way easier to drive
Here are some ideas to try in order of importance.

1) Check your tires, make sure you are running what others at your track are. Make sure you clean them and sauce them with appropriate sauce if allowed (paragon or Jack the Gripper for odor free tracks). Make sure they aren't too old, usually after 10 runs or if your belt is showing time to replace them. VTA is slower so you may get more runs.
2) make sure nothing is rubbing when you steer at full lock.
3) Make sure your front slipper spool is tight, you should really not be able to turn one tire while holding the other with your hand.
4) make sure your droop is to kit settings, 7mm front and 6mm back.
5) Turn down your dual rate on your radio and/or move your steering bellcrank ackerman position to C.
6) 2 degree of rear toe-in for carpet usually. Too much rear toe will make you loose out of the corner.
7) 6mm front right height, 5mm rear.
8) add a sway bar to the front or go stiffer on the roll bar if you already have it (silver). Front spring is usually 1 or 2 steps stiffer than back, Blue front/Silver back or silver/Green.

Also make sure your rear diff isn't too tight. Tighten it according to AE's instructions.

For your body, you should have some type of rear wing. I don't know VTA bodies, but put whatever wing you can on the back within your club rules.

If its severe its most likely your tires or having no wing. Something major.

Oil could be lighter in the rear, like 45/35 but you should not be spinning because of it.

Make sure you don't have excessive drag brake or something too.

Good luck.
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mtbboy
Orange=18.87
Green=16.06
Pink=14.93
Yellow=14.71
White=12.94
Blue=12.12

Not sure what those rates are from, but the Yokomo Pro springs (white with a small blob of paint) as used these days have the following rates:

Orange 18.5
Green 17.0
Pink 16.2
Yellow 15.7
Blue 14.8
Black 14.4
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by slovanova
Total newb to carpet here. Have been trying the TC6 in VTA and the rear end is super loose on tighter corners. It just wants to do donuts when I let off and turn. I have the kit setup with reflex shock pistons and 40 wt oil in all corners. I cant figure out why it is so loose. Just looking for any pointers or things to try. So far my TC3 is way easier to drive
I would stand up the rear shocks, this will add side-bite. The next thing I would try is less rear droop. This will limit weight transfer to the front. PM me your Email address and I can send you what I've been running.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:27 AM
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raise your roll center on the front, and lower your ride height.

Originally Posted by Warbird
HI There

I would stand up the front shock. The anti dive would be also for front.

If you have tried all then it is beyond my knowledge. May be other fellow racers could help.

Another thing is to try harder tire if possible. As this have also happened to me that trying all mentioned, and still no cure, so at the end change to set of harder tires solve all issues. Yes all 4 tires. Cheers

Cheers
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by slovanova
Total newb to carpet here. Have been trying the TC6 in VTA and the rear end is super loose on tighter corners. It just wants to do donuts when I let off and turn. I have the kit setup with reflex shock pistons and 40 wt oil in all corners. I cant figure out why it is so loose. Just looking for any pointers or things to try. So far my TC3 is way easier to drive
Try blue spring front/green spring rear, 0B arm mounts all around. With 5mm ride height try 1.5mm droop front and rear........ and maybe black front swaybar, or silver front/black rear.

The biggest thing is making sure the tires are actually gripping the track..... use whatever tire dope everyone else is, or use Paragon. Also, try cleaning them before each run.....
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:26 AM
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Also check that there are no binding 'A' arms or camber links as that could create all sorts of handling problems, does it happen in both directions? and only in 'off power' turn in ?
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by daleburr
Not sure what those rates are from, but the Yokomo Pro springs (white with a small blob of paint) as used these days have the following rates:

Orange 18.5
Green 17.0
Pink 16.2
Yellow 15.7
Blue 14.8
Black 14.4
Those numbers were what the springs showed on a fancy spring tester thing.
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