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Old 12-27-2011, 06:10 AM   #5161
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Yeah, I've been in contact with AE about the defective case halves.......they just blew me off. Not likely to purchase anymore of their stuff, crappy customer service.
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Who did you talk to at AE? That is the 1st time I've ever heard of such a thing

Search this and other Associated threads, and not just here on RCT. It's well documented to be hit or miss with those guys. Heck, they've run the extremes from full assembly parts sent out on just a say-so phone call, to giving out bogus tracking numbers for parts they supposedly sent multiple times.

Seems to have peaked with the first three runs of the original TC6.

Looks like not much has changed, no matter who you get on the other end of the phone, or who's name you drop.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:03 AM   #5162
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Default Good idea to thread lock the motor mount

Hi all

Just happened to me twice today, the car have no break at full speed(6.5T with turbo at full) at the end of the straight because the motor was not in contact with the spur gear ! The first time was the chassis screw came off of the front of the motor mount. That time was lucky that I steer and hit a padding. The second time the side screw at the front motor mount came off, but this time it hit a square steel pole

Long story short, the only part that need replacing was the spur gear and the motor, as both the motor case and rotor have deformed.

But the car still good as new, chassis is still flat and no broken part, even the motor mount is still straight.

So now I have used slightly longer screws with thread lock.

Cheers
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:05 AM   #5163
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Originally Posted by durtbag View Post
Donald Natale
Team Associated/Associated Electrics Inc.
Senior Dealer, OEM & Customer Support
26021 Commercentre Dr.
Lake Forest, CA 92630
949-544-7500 xt 2124 phone
949-544-7501 fax
When I saw these posts last night, I thought to myself "they must not have to talked to Don." I was surpised when I saw this post. I've had countless AE cars, dating back to the 80s. I even worked for a distributor for some time, and haven't had a reason to call them about anything until a couple weeks ago. I bought an SC10 4x4, and it was missing a clutch spacer. When I called, I talked to Don, and he was super nice to me. I emailed him a copy of the receipt, and the part was in my mailbox, two days later.

It's a shame to hear when people have bad experiences with customer service. Those stories speak volumes to the would be customer.

As far as the diff halves........I agree, not the finest piece they've put out. Mine leaked and warped the first time I assembled it, too. I took it back apart a couple times and finally got it sealed. I walked the screws in super slow, and used a pattern for tightening, similar to how you would tighten lug nuts, making sure that no side was much tighter than the rest at any time.

Hopefully AE gets a better setup soon. Maybe Don was heading out to lunch when you called....... I know, not an excuse.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:29 AM   #5164
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Default diff

i had the same problem with my diff and rebuilt it using the pattern and making sure it was seated properly while tightening the screws and all is well. My advice is to take your time and pay attention to detail while assembling the diff not that you haven't but i know i get anxious when i get close to being done.
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:01 AM   #5165
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The stock ball cup is not smooth. Want to know what is the choice of better ball cup? thx
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:15 AM   #5166
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The stock ball cup is not smooth. Want to know what is the choice of better ball cup? thx
You can follow the manual as it states to gently squeeze the ball cup with needle nose pliers(same trick has been around for years in the entire world of rc) to free it up.
Or you can take an old ball stud and make 4 marks (indentions) on the ball with wire strippers and put the ball into a dremel. Install ball cup on modified stud and spin for a few seconds. Be sure NOT to overheat the cup as it can happen quickly. When done, you will have a cup that fits nicely and is very smooth with no marks on the outside from squeezing it with pliers!
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:35 AM   #5167
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Originally Posted by R Doyel View Post
When I saw these posts last night, I thought to myself "they must not have to talked to Don." I was surpised when I saw this post. I've had countless AE cars, dating back to the 80s. I even worked for a distributor for some time, and haven't had a reason to call them about anything until a couple weeks ago. I bought an SC10 4x4, and it was missing a clutch spacer. When I called, I talked to Don, and he was super nice to me. I emailed him a copy of the receipt, and the part was in my mailbox, two days later.

It's a shame to hear when people have bad experiences with customer service. Those stories speak volumes to the would be customer.

As far as the diff halves........I agree, not the finest piece they've put out. Mine leaked and warped the first time I assembled it, too. I took it back apart a couple times and finally got it sealed. I walked the screws in super slow, and used a pattern for tightening, similar to how you would tighten lug nuts, making sure that no side was much tighter than the rest at any time.

Hopefully AE gets a better setup soon. Maybe Don was heading out to lunch when you called....... I know, not an excuse.
I too have owned several AE vehicles and I have always been treated great by customer service. NEVER A SINGLE PROBLEM WITH THEM!!!



Additionally, the deformation of the diff halves was an early production issue and it never caused any leaks on mine because the deformation is on the thin outer edge NOT where the halves seal. Search my posts as I posted a pic after installation. I ordered both of mine as soon as they were released and a friend at the track just purchased his two and they came in with no deformation what so ever.

Gear diffs take a lil tlc when building to ensure a proper seal. The rubber seal can "roll" and is one of the biggest issues. Add a little oil to the seal. Take your time, remove any excess material, (big problem with the spec-r diffs!! Talk about a leak problem!!) and do not overfill with oil!!! #1 issue is overfilling!!

Take care and Happy New Year!!
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:46 AM   #5168
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The stock ball cup is not smooth. Want to know what is the choice of better ball cup? thx
You could also try our RSD Aluminum Ball ends, they are much smoother than the stock black ones that take some time to break in. The coating on them is super hard and lasts a very long time, plus they weigh a lot less.
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:53 AM   #5169
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You could also try our RSD Aluminum Ball ends, they are much smoother than the stock black ones that take some time to break in. The coating on them is super hard and lasts a very long time, plus they weigh a lot less.
+1.......And while you're at it, check out the other trick things for the TC6 that RSD has to offer!
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:42 AM   #5170
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Does anybody know is an upgrade kit TC6 -> TC6.1 is on the way ?
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:10 PM   #5171
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Has anyone else noticed how much play there is in the driveshaft/bearing/rear hubs??
And I don't mean the hun against the wishbone..

Not even ran the car yet and the rear has a bag of slop in it...
I thought the new plastics were supposed to help with the poor fitment?
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:34 PM   #5172
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Search this and other Associated threads, and not just here on RCT. It's well documented to be hit or miss with those guys. Heck, they've run the extremes from full assembly parts sent out on just a say-so phone call, to giving out bogus tracking numbers for parts they supposedly sent multiple times.

Seems to have peaked with the first three runs of the original TC6.

Looks like not much has changed, no matter who you get on the other end of the phone, or who's name you drop.
First heard for me, I've always had good luck with AE support. Even before I ran for Team Associated.
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:45 PM   #5173
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Has anyone else noticed how much play there is in the driveshaft/bearing/rear hubs??
And I don't mean the hun against the wishbone..

Not even ran the car yet and the rear has a bag of slop in it...
I thought the new plastics were supposed to help with the poor fitment?
Yes, it is the AE Bearings. Use a hobby knife and score the inside of the hub, I do an asterisk pattern. This should make the bearing "press in" instead of dropping in.

it seems other brand bearings are better fitting, but most people still score the Hubs. Don't know how the 6.1's are though...
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:46 PM   #5174
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Default tamiya TRF Bladders

Just rebuilt my shocks and used Tamiya TRF #53576 bladders.....wow the difference is amazing. the Tamiya bladders are so much softer than the kit ones.
Oh, and I have been using the Tamiya clear bottom o-rings for a while and they rock too!
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:49 PM   #5175
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Originally Posted by Warbird View Post
Hi all

Just happened to me twice today, the car have no break at full speed(6.5T with turbo at full) at the end of the straight because the motor was not in contact with the spur gear ! The first time was the chassis screw came off of the front of the motor mount. That time was lucky that I steer and hit a padding. The second time the side screw at the front motor mount came off, but this time it hit a square steel pole

Long story short, the only part that need replacing was the spur gear and the motor, as both the motor case and rotor have deformed.

But the car still good as new, chassis is still flat and no broken part, even the motor mount is still straight.

So now I have used slightly longer screws with thread lock.

Cheers
You can run really long screws from the inside of the spur bulkhead towards the edge of the chassis, then fasten it with small locknuts..... it won't come loose that way
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