YoDog

iTrader: (28)

One tip would be to use all the flat head screws without lettering on the bottom of the chassis wherever possible as they fit closer to flush than the ones with the lettering stamped into the heads.
They are the shorter (5mm) of the two and apparently from a different vendor so the heads are slightly smaller in diameter.
2) You will need to be sure to press the diff locking nut all the way into it's seat as it fits quite tight and some have complained that the screw that goes into it is too short. it's just that the nut is not seated all the way.
3) Sand the edge of the shock pistons with 400 grit sandpaper to remove the burs. This will make them work smoother.
4) I had to shim the lower shock mounts 2mm at the rear of the car as the springs tend to rub. I will take some pictures of all this stuff later.
5) some motors have an issue where the flat spot on the shaft doesn't extend far enough toward the motor bearing which can cause a poor alignment with the spur gear. D3 motors are like this. You will have to grind, file or machine the flat to about 1mm from the bearing face in order to have enough movement.
There are other building tips in this forum, you will just have to look around a bit.

Good luck in you build... Cheers!

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

Ditto this.

If you are not so inclined to dremel/machine your rotor shaft... The combination of the Xray 64p offset spurs and a pinion with a short body(such as the Robinson and RW 64p pinions) will work as well on the Epic/Trinity motors.

ScottyTC4NZ

Motor wise ive got a LRP X-12 Stock Spec 13.5t

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Be sure to blue loctite the threads on the servo saver spring nut or it'll back off. Just happened to me on my blinky car last night...straight into the wall in the sweeper.

daleburr

+1 this is vital

Chaz955i

iTrader: (5)

Oh yeah, I found out the hard way myself. Thankfully on a slower section of the track.

ScottyTC4NZ

Hi

How tight do i tighten the servo screw up?

Do you all prep the chassis first before building?

Chaz955i

iTrader: (5)

There are instructions on how far the servo saver screw gets tightened down in the build manual. Check it out because it is tough to describe. The manual can be found at RC10.com if you don't have one. You don't want to tighten down too much or you defeat the purpose of the saver, unless that is what you are looking for.

I prepped the lower plate pre build. The other carbon parts I left unprepped.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I usually spend an hour bevelling the leading edges of the chassis, then seal it with CA, makes a big difference on carpet. I'll seal (CA) the shock towers and tape bar thingy's but I never seal the top deck, it changes the flex IMO.

wcalaker

iTrader: (1)

Just got done building my TC6.

There were a few parts missing. The diff nut actually stripped, luckily i had a replacement. There was a crush tube missing but i salvaged one from my TC5. Instructions were...well typical Associated. Some of the screws seem off tolerance. Had the same C clip issue where it wasnt in the right bag. Wasted 2 hours going to hobby store to see if some E clips would work then i found it in another bag. Overall a few minor things, nothing major but somewhat annoying little things.

Im dissappointed to hear that my D3 motor may have issues. I dislike having to modify anything that should just "work" with any car.

I cant see how the servo saver thing will come loose but guess i'll take it apart to put some loctite on it.

I havent put the electronics in it yet but the steering links hang real low to the steering knuckles. Is this right? i have the ball studs down per the instructions but it just doesnt look right. Maybe with the electrics in it will set the car down a little more so they arent so angled. I thought i heard that if you use 6 deg blocks you have to put the the arm the way it is on the TC5....

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

All you have to do is spin the nut off with the saver in the car (crank the wheels to the left). Apply some threadlock to the exposed bottom threads of the tube and spin the nut back on (with your fingers). Hold the chassis upside down while putting the nut back on. Takes about 5 min to do it.

jjfo80

iTrader: (1)

you wont go wrong with the tc6.. I only built a xray t3 11 for someone a few weeks ago and it had all the same things in its little book not so perfect..... Shocks well I just didnt like them.... as for the other odds and ends well I dealt with them.....

Tc6 is a nice car once you clearly work and iron out the bugs its a very quick car out of the box I assure you Xray killer in my hands

olly986

We mainly use the steering arms like the TC5, specialy with 6deg blocks.
I never had problem with servo saver, built as per manual, it did not move after a full season on two cars.

dennisV

Had a nice day of racing at Geilenkirchen today. I had loads of steering after some adjustments and plenty of speed. I could not keep up with the faster local guys, but they didn't ran 13.5 Boosted, so not a fair compensation at all .

Really like the car and the quality. I saw a MI4 crashing into a sidewall and lost his rear drivetrain. I did some weird moves during the day and nothing happened.

Good racing day!

wcalaker

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Olly. i will probably change them around when i install the electrics.

I must say i love how the car feels compared to my TC5. Definitely a lot less slop with the new turnbuckles. Shocks are awesome..not sure how much the Reflex parts helped but they are silky smooth. Cant wait to get it on the track.

I go to a place that has medium bite carpet. I started off with Olly Jefferies' (not sure if you are the same Olly, im assuming)setup on the Assoc website. That looks like it will get me close.

Thx

Drew