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Old 10-09-2011, 03:01 PM   #4096
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Im having an issue I dont recall being posted up about. Just getting my TC6 up and running and I put the servo in. The problem is the servo horn is hitting th bottom side of the top deck and flexing the top deck as I turn back and forth. Any solutions? I'm using a KO servo with the J servo arm.
Shorter servo arm or you might be able to shave a bit off the kit piece to get the clearance you need.
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:19 PM   #4097
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What kind of Ko servo are you using. I cannot imagine a 1/10th servo being that high as the arm would touch the top deck, all servo arms are the same lengh in kit.
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:24 PM   #4098
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In what way are the soft bladders different from the ones in the kit?
Are they of thinner material, or so?
And if so, are they as durable as the ones in the kit?

What doe the soft bladders do for you, that is for the car, when racing it?

What about chassisflex?
XRay has a lot of options with screws here and there in there topdeck and chassis.
I realize that chassisflex especially on low grip asphalt is a must. But I prefer to tune the suspension.
How is it with chassisflex with the TC6?
Are there possibilities to tune the chassis and/or topdeck with screws in or out?
Or is it just the setup as in the kit? With all screws in?
for flex Kensei, you can remove the two button head screws just behind the spur gear on top deck, there was also a more "drastic" thing that was done on TC5, it was cutting a piece from the front bulkheads, but so far have not heard of anyone doing this on TC6.
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:28 PM   #4099
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On another point of quality of components which I find now frequently having two cars running, the quality of the screws is poor to say the least, even with good driver, the head hex have limited life, so watch out so not to be stuck with a screw locked on your car that you cannot remove, usually this happen at the wrong time or place
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:36 PM   #4100
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
In what way are the soft bladders different from the ones in the kit?
Are they of thinner material, or so?
And if so, are they as durable as the ones in the kit?

What doe the soft bladders do for you, that is for the car, when racing it?

What about chassisflex?
XRay has a lot of options with screws here and there in there topdeck and chassis.
I realize that chassisflex especially on low grip asphalt is a must. But I prefer to tune the suspension.
How is it with chassisflex with the TC6?
Are there possibilities to tune the chassis and/or topdeck with screws in or out?
Or is it just the setup as in the kit? With all screws in?
No not thinner, softer more plyable, you can get real 0 rebound. Car seems smoother on the track. And I have had mine apart three times and keep using the same ones over and over.So more durable.

And the last great thing is their clear, you can see any air bubbles and get them all out. So you cant go wrong.

You can take the two screws out by the motor for more flex.

Pete
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:59 PM   #4101
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Here's a couple of pics of my servo mod. It's essentially the XRAY set bolted on, but I have the arms flipped to clear the arm blocks.

On my next chassis I will be moving the steering posts forward a few millimeters to give more room for the battery. You can see part of my cut upper deck --- generates tons of flex!
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Team Associated TC6 Thread-servosetup1.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-servosetup2.jpg  
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:41 PM   #4102
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
What kind of Ko servo are you using. I cannot imagine a 1/10th servo being that high as the arm would touch the top deck, all servo arms are the same lengh in kit.
pds-2363 ics

I would think if I went with a shorter servo arm I would then have the linkage hitting the servo.
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:49 PM   #4103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
In what way are the soft bladders different from the ones in the kit?
Are they of thinner material, or so?
And if so, are they as durable as the ones in the kit?

What doe the soft bladders do for you, that is for the car, when racing it?

What about chassisflex?
XRay has a lot of options with screws here and there in there topdeck and chassis.
I realize that chassisflex especially on low grip asphalt is a must. But I prefer to tune the suspension.
How is it with chassisflex with the TC6?
Are there possibilities to tune the chassis and/or topdeck with screws in or out?
Or is it just the setup as in the kit? With all screws in?
The soft bladders are silicon material instead of urethane (kit). It makes it easier to set 0 rebound, and they are also shaped so the threads of the cap dont grab the bladder like the stock ones can sometimes.

The TC6 chassis as stock is pretty soft as is, its softer than tamiya or xray. Most guys take out the 2 screws to the layshaft bulkheads.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:07 PM   #4104
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
for flex Kensei, you can remove the two button head screws just behind the spur gear on top deck, there was also a more "drastic" thing that was done on TC5, it was cutting a piece from the front bulkheads, but so far have not heard of anyone doing this on TC6.
A few weeks ago I actually cut the center out of the rear shock tower to help generate more rear grip. I like my cars to have a ton of steering, but was losing rear grip on the low traction carpet we run, so I cut it and it actually works very well.

When I go to big races, I need to put a stock shocktower back on the rear to when grip levels are high, but the cut one works great on club racing where the track layout is changed often.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:17 PM   #4105
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
On another point of quality of components which I find now frequently having two cars running, the quality of the screws is poor to say the least, even with good driver, the head hex have limited life, so watch out so not to be stuck with a screw locked on your car that you cannot remove, usually this happen at the wrong time or place
I just finished mine and found the exact same thing. The unmarked cheapo screws don't accept a 2mm properly. The YFS marked 12.9 grade screws are actually top notch quality, and how the rest of the hardware SHOULD be. Not sure what's up with the 3x5mm screws, they should be tossed out right out of the box.

I have a HUGE issue however, haven't done a search yet, but what is up with the camber links. Front and rear are SOOOOO long that none of the camber adjustment holes can be used. Am I missing something, or are shorter links an option part only that we shouldn't have to pay for?
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:08 PM   #4106
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I have a HUGE issue however, haven't done a search yet, but what is up with the camber links. Front and rear are SOOOOO long that none of the camber adjustment holes can be used. Am I missing something, or are shorter links an option part only that we shouldn't have to pay for?
Nope, you got it right. If you want shorter camber links, and to replace the crappy screws, shell out more $$$.
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:13 PM   #4107
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I never had any issues with any screws that came in the kit......

Even the thrust bolt and nut in the diff worked fine with no trouble.

For the rear camber link I just cut the stock one down a bit with the Dremel. I've never found where I wanted a rear link as long as the front.
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:13 PM   #4108
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Great, anybody want a brand new 90% assembled TC-6 with tuning spring kit? Most of the stuff seems top notch, just can't believe there are no stock camber link adjustments available out of the box.

I suppose that fits with having the wrong size screws for the pivot block mounts as well. 4 3x14mm, 2 3x16mm, and 2 3x12mm. All 8 are supposed to be 3x14.
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:55 PM   #4109
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Great, anybody want a brand new 90% assembled TC-6 with tuning spring kit? Most of the stuff seems top notch, just can't believe there are no stock camber link adjustments available out of the box.

I suppose that fits with having the wrong size screws for the pivot block mounts as well. 4 3x14mm, 2 3x16mm, and 2 3x12mm. All 8 are supposed to be 3x14.
You are going to get rid of/sell the car because you want different screws?

Instead of just shelling out another $5?
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:02 PM   #4110
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Great, anybody want a brand new 90% assembled TC-6 with tuning spring kit? Most of the stuff seems top notch, just can't believe there are no stock camber link adjustments available out of the box.

I suppose that fits with having the wrong size screws for the pivot block mounts as well. 4 3x14mm, 2 3x16mm, and 2 3x12mm. All 8 are supposed to be 3x14.
The give you those different length screws for a reason, think about it instead of quitting on it......
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