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Old 02-01-2011, 06:15 PM
  #1666  
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So far i like the mazdaspeed. The mazda def numbs up the corner entry compared to the ltcr
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:00 PM
  #1667  
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Originally Posted by DomTC6
Does any one know what the best body shell is for the TC6 is. On my TC5 I tried the R9 and that was the worst shell I had ever used so I changed to the DNA 2 which I also put on the TC6. The P37-R looks quite good but does it handle well or is there a better shell out there?

thanks
The R9 was the worse body every produced IMO. I feel I'm owed 2 bodies after I wasted time and money painting them Go with the LTCR or a Speed 6 and call it a day.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:03 PM
  #1668  
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The R9 is a great body... the chassis just needs to be tuned differently to use it...
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:13 PM
  #1669  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
The R9 was the worse body every produced IMO. I feel I'm owed 2 bodies after I wasted time and money painting them Go with the LTCR or a Speed 6 and call it a day.
Lots of guys at my track are running the R9. Seems to be working rather well for them. Like anything else, body is just another tuning tool in the entire set up of the car.
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:35 PM
  #1670  
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Originally Posted by GreenSC10
Not sure if this has been brought up lately, but I was having issues with my right rear bulk head having poorly threaded holes. The bulk head was stripped on one hole and on the bottom side as well. I actually had a screw back out during a race and fall out (which I check before each run). So I changed my M3X14 to M3X16 for a little more bite when holding on the A arms. For the chassis underneath to the bulk head I used M3X8 instead of the M3X5, but some 8's didnt fit, because of inconsistant depths of the treaded holes.
I had a bulkhead that wasn't threaded properly during manufacturing, and I called the customer service number listed in the manual, and AE sent me a new one.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:40 AM
  #1671  
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Thanks everyone for the help in body shells. I think I might give the speed 6 ago.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:45 AM
  #1672  
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
Hi!



+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


I use some cnc cut 10mm tool to put inside bearing more,
and now:
- outside is 5x10x3,
- inside is 5x10x4,
- hex is from yokomo: bd-011c (5mm) or nr graupner: YBD.011C,
- spec-r bd5 double joint axle

Need some work on c-hub to fit it, and I will squeeze tc6 diff, it is a little slop,
or put Y bd5 gear diff to front with 100k oil

Anyway, works, from slow rpms to high without big shaking

Also I wait very long time for ae factory to do own axle ...


tool:
Attachment 702326


Good Luck with the Spec-R axles. We tried them in the Yokomo BD5 (All in Modified) but they didn't last long. They kept braking at the Joint.
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Old 02-02-2011, 06:08 AM
  #1673  
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We tend to only use the R9 in the wet here in the UK
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:34 AM
  #1674  
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Originally Posted by DomTC6
Thanks everyone for the help in body shells. I think I might give the speed 6 ago.
The real secret is to pick up 2 or 3 bodies, as it is the quickest tuning aid (ie less then 10 seconds to change the body) and it makes an unbelievable difference in handling. It will take a couple of laps to adjust to the difference in the body. Like JRS_chris suggests maybe the R9 gives you a ton of front bit that you need in the rain to make your standard setup just work.

-b
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:37 AM
  #1675  
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Originally Posted by FrankH
Good Luck with the Spec-R axles. We tried them in the Yokomo BD5 (All in Modified) but they didn't last long. They kept braking at the Joint.
+1
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:12 AM
  #1676  
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Originally Posted by twk-b
The real secret is to pick up 2 or 3 bodies, as it is the quickest tuning aid (ie less then 10 seconds to change the body) and it makes an unbelievable difference in handling. It will take a couple of laps to adjust to the difference in the body. Like JRS_chris suggests maybe the R9 gives you a ton of front bit that you need in the rain to make your standard setup just work.

-b
That IS a great idea... but the reason most dislike the R9 body is because they did just that. They drop the shell on with their current setup for the previous body, make a few tweaks, cant seem to tame its immense amount of steering, and out comes the critiques.

While todays TC's DO have a lot of steering, there is something to be said for greater downforce in almost any racing situation. Using an R9 in the wet is a great example of that. I use it because our local track has less grip than most. But i would likely shy away from using it at a big event that has high grip, like the Snowbirds... because the body DOES require more wrench time to find a setup that works for your particular chassis.

Im just saying dont shy away from the R9. A lot of people hated the Mazda 6 body when it first came out because it had so much steering. It went on to become a staple in TC racing for years.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:02 PM
  #1677  
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Originally Posted by hanulec
+1
I will see

I have too much time for tuning then race ...


If axles will be bad, I will just switch to ready set ae

Regards!
m
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:28 AM
  #1678  
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Default litemodz tc6 axle



anyone try them in the past with tc5 ?
maybe now with tc6?



http://www.litemodz.com/product_info...roducts_id=402
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:36 AM
  #1679  
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I prefer the LTC-R over the Speed6, for both my TC5 and TC6. It just seems to suit my driving better, plus I found the LTC-R just seems to sit better on the car compard to the Speed6.
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Old 02-03-2011, 12:11 PM
  #1680  
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Is there place where I can get the bulkheads at?

Thanks.
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