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Old 05-27-2004, 02:59 PM   #31
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Originally posted by PitCrew
Cogging is when one pole of the armature isn't being "charged" for part of the arms rotation. That "notchiness" you are referring to is the motor acting as a generator when you turn the shaft. The reason that mods are usually easier to rotate than stock motors (less drag break) is because the more wire there is on the armature, the more current it creates like a generator. Basically, with more wire, as in a stock motor, ther is more drag through the magnetic field of the magnets than a low turn mod.
Ok.. thanks for the follow-up there bro!!!..
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Old 05-27-2004, 03:50 PM   #32
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PitCrew- Thank for correcting me there. You seem to be very knowledgable in the technical aspect in motors.

I'm getting about 4-5 runs with 766's if you dont over time it. I usually cut every 2 runs.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 05-27-2004, 05:12 PM   #33
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I run a D5 11 single, purple springs, stock brushes and after 3 runs theyr'e a lil purple on the ends. Where should I set timing of the endbell and what brushes get good runtime & good performance (looking to get around 10 runs) I don't have a lathe...I have to use my dad's but he doesn't bring it to the track

I want the most runs possible yet I want good performance too.....I'll be willing to sacrifice a few runs if it makes it run noticably better

Last edited by The Black Kat; 05-27-2004 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 05-27-2004, 06:36 PM   #34
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Just go get a V2 10x1 or 9x1. They will be just as fast as your 11T but the brushes will last way longer.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 05-27-2004, 06:40 PM   #35
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I don't have the cash for another motor. Woun't for a long while either
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Old 05-27-2004, 06:41 PM   #36
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ok .. I am getting into Mod sedan racing ... I have a KR 10x1 that I got to play around with on the carpet this past winter and I never did get the roll out right so it wasnt smoking hot and killing brushes every run ... I did set the timing like suggested ( kind of .. 2v and set to 10 amps ) and I could never find a happy roll out ... I run a TC3 usually with a 100 t 64 p spur .. any help / clues .. I use it with actrons and the rebent springs ... I'll give the 767's a try this summer outdoors ... also I usually on carpet run the foams down around 2.15-2.3 inches

I also just purchased a D6 8x2 and 10x2 they are fresh never run .. I will be using them outdoors to run .. either foams or rubber .. depending on the track and the available classes ... same TC3 but with a 72t 48p supr ... so any help you guys can give would be great ... I am headed over to read the Big Jim thread now on RCcar ...

thanks in advance and have fun racing

E
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Old 05-27-2004, 06:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
I don't have the cash for another motor. Woun't for a long while either
Doy uo remember the part number of the stock brushes. I knwo there is a high silver compound and a more conservative compound. I just dont remember the part numbers and what comes in the motor.

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Old 05-27-2004, 06:53 PM   #38
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If yer talking about the V2 brushes, there are only two......the Sprint(high silver race brush, like the 4383 in performance and wear) and the Enduro (longer lasting brush, like the 4380 in performance and wear)....

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Old 05-27-2004, 06:57 PM   #39
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Stock brushes? My D5 takes P94s.....
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Old 05-27-2004, 07:58 PM   #40
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The best brushes for the P94 hoods is the p94 4379 or the p94 4383......if yer looking for long wearing, but a little less power try the p94 4380....

Of course, the best thing to do is put some regular hoods on your D5....and just use the 4383.

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Old 05-27-2004, 08:06 PM   #41
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Well actually, I wasn't talking about the V2's but EddieO mentioned the 2 trinity brushes I was talking about (thanks dude!). There is a comound of brush that is made my trinity that has more silver in it. Most people call them 4383E. The E stands for the "P-94" size. The lower silver compound would be ideal for you and we call that a 4380E.

So your best bet would be to go to your hobby store, buy a couple pairs of 4380E brushes, recut your comm, and rebuild the motor. Turn down your timing to like 12-15 degrees (easier on brushes and cooler running temps).

If you wanna try somthing different, try narrowing the face of the brushes to the width of a standard stand up brush. This is what Jim Dieter (Trinnity's past motor man) did to all the team motors. That will increase torque and efficientcy and I heard it reduces comm wear as well. Hope this helps.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 05-27-2004, 08:07 PM   #42
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Eddie, do you ever use 4379's in sedan? I tried them once and they definitely were comm killers. I've been told it's really a 4-cell brush.
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Old 05-27-2004, 08:33 PM   #43
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At big races we have.....who cares about comm life then as long as it lasts 5 minutes!!!

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Old 05-27-2004, 08:34 PM   #44
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You make a point there sir.
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Old 05-27-2004, 08:48 PM   #45
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I sent you an email Brian.....


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