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1/10 Touring Car Advice

1/10 Touring Car Advice

Old 06-30-2010, 06:03 AM
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Default 1/10 Touring Car Advice

im lokking to get into a decent touring car but dont want to spend thousands. if i can get some suggestions on cars that would be sweet thanks
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:39 AM
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the tamiya TA05 variants are the best value for money, get an IFS-R (if u can find one) or a TA05V2 chassis.

they handle awesome, and can beat carbon chassis cars if driven well.

once you want something more, you're better off buying a higher end chassis than modding the TA05..
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:48 AM
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Alot depends on what you want to do with it. Bash or race? New or used? If you're looking for a race car, the TOP Photon is one of the most competitive cars on the market and also happens to be the best bang for the buck. $380 and it comes with 2 chassis' and an extra suspension set (arms, knuckles, caster blocks, rear hubs) at no charge. If you're looking to bash, you can usually find a used TC3 or TC4 on here pretty reasonable.
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by stiltskin View Post
Alot depends on what you want to do with it. Bash or race? New or used? If you're looking for a race car, the TOP Photon is one of the most competitive cars on the market and also happens to be the best bang for the buck. $380 and it comes with 2 chassis' and an extra suspension set (arms, knuckles, caster blocks, rear hubs) at no charge. If you're looking to bash, you can usually find a used TC3 or TC4 on here pretty reasonable.
i want to race but i have never grabbed ahold of a controller with a on road car on the other end. ive always been a off road guy but am gonna try onroad. matter of fact there is one of these cars at my local track! the photon
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Old 06-30-2010, 03:30 PM
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Since associated is finaly coming out with a new car you should be able to grab a TC5 at a halfway decent price. its a good competitive car

Bottom line though, figure out what car there running at your local track because thats what your really going to want to steer twords brand wise. Buy somthing parts will be easy for you to come by. Everybody races X-ray here so I have to carry a hobby shop around with me. Broke a part at my last race thats a stupid any hobby shop should have on the wall part (hinge pin brace) and just didnt think to have one in my spares box because its not somthing I've ever broken on a touring car before. I acctualy didnt break it but had a screw vibrate loose and lost it on the track somewhere. Still, it would have been nice if I had a car that I could have gone and bought that $2 part for and kept racing, I got lucky and made some cobed up rig work for the mains
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by stiltskin View Post
Alot depends on what you want to do with it. Bash or race? New or used? If you're looking for a race car, the TOP Photon is one of the most competitive cars on the market and also happens to be the best bang for the buck. $380 and it comes with 2 chassis' and an extra suspension set (arms, knuckles, caster blocks, rear hubs) at no charge. If you're looking to bash, you can usually find a used TC3 or TC4 on here pretty reasonable.
Originally Posted by bbrace3m View Post
i want to race but i have never grabbed ahold of a controller with a on road car on the other end. ive always been a off road guy but am gonna try onroad. matter of fact there is one of these cars at my local track! the photon
Thats a good point. Knowing what you want to do with the car and how you plan to use it. Since you said racing, a belt driven car like the TC5 will be better for you. Belts are lighter, smoother, no torque steer. But they are higher maintenance and generally cost more to run/maintain.

But otherwise a shaft driven car would be better. They are more direct, and durable, and lower maintenance. They cost less to repair and maintain. A TC3 or 4 would be good here. But they suffer from torgue steer.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:32 PM
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Speaking of TC3....I just picked one up for 125 used. Stock. I'm a off road guy myself and was wondering what I should do as far as up grades and whatever else. We all know how this goes. Motor, carbon, suspension, servo bla bla bla. Not sure I'll compete but need to make better.
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:12 PM
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need your help guys..
what is damper rebound?
what is the effect of it?
how to set it?
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:29 PM
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Yellow!
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Old 07-03-2010, 11:43 AM
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go with a t3r great price, great handling car!!!
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Old 07-03-2010, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr LowDown View Post
need your help guys..
what is damper rebound?
what is the effect of it?
how to set it?
click suspension then PAGE 2
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
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Old 07-04-2010, 02:50 AM
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thanks dude..
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Old 07-04-2010, 09:11 AM
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I like the Kyosho TF-6. I'm looking to get into electric TC, too; And so far, it's either this or the new TC6 from Associated.
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Old 07-05-2010, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hyperfuxx View Post
Speaking of TC3....I just picked one up for 125 used. Stock. I'm a off road guy myself and was wondering what I should do as far as up grades and whatever else. We all know how this goes. Motor, carbon, suspension, servo bla bla bla. Not sure I'll compete but need to make better.
I picked up a used TC3 late last season and I couldn't be happier with it. All the Sprint 2 guys at the track started drooling when they saw it...

Handles great, some of the upgrades I'm planning are replacing the stock steering assembly with the dual bellcrank setup from the Nitro TC3 and upgrading the motor mount setup to avoid tweeking the chassis.

A common upgrade is moving the battery inwards towards the shaft by removing some of the reinforcements below the shaft.

There are some awesome tutorials out there for all this stuff...

You can also swap out some of the TC4 parts - There's a full FAQ on the AE website that lists all the interchangeable parts.
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:33 AM
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IRS used to make some lightweight shafts for the tc3, the rpm blue ball ends are strong too.

Another tip is that the rear shock tower fitted up front allows more aggressive shock and camber positions, giving a lot more steering - this is needed if you run a locked front diff (locked diff takes away steering. . .)
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