crazysavage

iTrader: (43)

Not trying to be a jerk here but your body could be rubbing at full lock when you are pitched over in a turn and it may just enough that you dont here it. Check for rubber dust inside the body. It may be only happening at certain speeds.

simplechamp

iTrader: (73)

You can basically turn any 1/8 buggy into a GT. The main factor is how difficult it will be. For my Jammin the Kyosho IGT parts bolted right on, so it was easy, for an Xray you may need custom towers and more fabrication to make stuff like body mounts and bumper work.

As a basic parts list I'd say: Shocks, shock towers, bumper, body mounts, body, and wheels/tires.

This was posted on the Xray forum back in 2007, doesn't seem to have much info though, or what ever happened with that car: http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?=&p=47406

Raman

iTrader: (94)

To convert an Xray 808E to a GT car, you'll basically need to do what I did with Tamiya TF801X.

I took the upper part of the kyosho GT shock tower along with the lower half of the TRF801 shock tower and made a cutout and gave it to SNRScion who is on this thread and he made me custom front and rear shock tower. After that, I mounted the front and rear body mounts from Kyosho along with bumper and my car was a GT. Here is the build thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...d-project.html

snrscion

iTrader: (21)

Yes they are the hardcase batteries.

williamw

iTrader: (5)

They don't, except for changing the C-Hub and they don't make one with less caster. I thought you were talking about the Ofna car.

Jspeed

The "B-Blocks" can reduce caster a little.

Jspeed

Running -2 degrees up front is way too much camber and toe-in is not good on the track.

Try running -1 degree camber (adjust according to tire patch wear pattern).

For front, running only + 1/2 or even 0 degrees toe-out (each side) is better than any toe-in. These changes should help reduce the "death ring" on your tires.

Good luck.

Jspeed

Very cool.

How long are the A Mains you guys run with Charlie B?

Missle

Thanks Jspeed! I'll try -1 deg camber and adjust per the wear patch. I was told last year to run 2 deg but that came from a couple of the track "pros" .
I'll also adjust the toe-in to 0 and see how twitchy she is on the straight.

Jspeed

I actually have been running +1 degree of toe-out with my GT cars for years. Toe-out in your car's front can be your very best friend on the race track.

RC Passion

iTrader: (8)

I can get 8 minutes tops on my zippy 4cell 5000mah bat. But, like some of u know, i love speeeed!
I may be able to squeeze out 10 min if i geared down a bit. My 5800 mah batts (on order) should make the time though. How long is the straight out there?
I think for the most part Charlie @ OC Circuit runs a 7 min format w/ 2 qualifiers and a main.

FangsCPO

I didn't see if you mentioned which shocks springs you are running? What WildBill said is right on but if you are trying to cut cost for now, the springs could be the problem in my opinion. Losi offers 6 springs varying in resistence, I forget what is the patter of firmest to softest but I know that Silver is firmer than Green.....If I'm wrong, please someone correct me. Good Luck!

WildBillMassey

iTrader: (5)

That is correct.

The A and B blocks are the upper and lower blocks on the rear of the front bulkhead. The car comes with A blocks but no B blocks are supplied. The part you will need is http://www.igthobbies.com/product_p/kyoif124b.htm

That set comes with A blocks, B blocks, and the complete set of rear toe blocks (2, 2.5, and 3 degree)

You must change both upper and lower block at the same time and they must match. Going to a B Block setup gives you lower caster angle for more quicker steering response.

Jspeed

OMG!
Stop the press, hell has frozen over, pigs can fly..... JK...

Here's some cool Warrior body pics from our GT racing Brothers in Brazil; for those of you that like pictures.

See ya at the races!

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Wanted to chime in on the run time of these cars. One of the biggest things we've come to notice running 1/8th off road electric for 4+ years now is that run time varies greatly between drivers and driving style. Driver A can have the exact same setup as driver B but run his batteries out twice as fast (no exaggeration). Driver skill and driving style make a huge difference. A pro level driver might only be able to race these cars for 6-8 min, and expert driver 8-10min, and a sportsman anywhere from 8-15min, all with the same setups. Sometimes hard to believe but several factors support this. Pro drivers typically turn more more laps than average racers. Pro drivers drive deeper into turns and brake later and harder than average drivers. They also have the ability to drive strapped yet be in total control (this is more of an off road thing but can still apply here) whereas others cannot push that hard with good results.

I'd say that whatever the lowest time posted is you'd want to go 1 min lower than that to allow for any inconsistencies and warm-up laps. And by doing triple A-Mains you allow racers to get their money's worth of track time. This race shouldn't be won or lost due to a battery dumping.

One last note, or wish, lol, if you can work in a way to bump up through the mains that would also be really cool. I know it's hard to do with triple A's but winning a lower main and knowing you have another race is very exciting. Plus it also allows for bum qualifiers.