Tarp repair tape is excellent. Very sticky, fairly clear and fiber reinforced. By it at TSC.

Good morning All. Need your help with a little clarification. It appears the rules still say 24 or 26mm wheel/tires are allowed. I also see where the new Ride 24mm tires have become the more or less spec choice.
Is anybody still using 26mm ? If so, what tires are good (other than X patterns)?
I've been away from GT for awhile and still catching up. When 26mm was the norm, using 200mm bodies was also the norm and the HPI wheels would get you the right offset.

My 190mm Daytona Prototype body came in at 102g while the 200mm DeltaPlastik body weighs 139g

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3679/...392917e7_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7410/...2565c3ee_b.jpg

Maybe account a few grams for rubber shavings and HobbyTown racing decals?

@Evo,
The Ride tires are the spec tires for USGT. They are designed for 24mm wheels, so most everyone I've heard of is running them on 24mm wheels. There are VERY few 24mm wheels with anything other than a "0" offset (I have a set of Tamiya's with a +2mm offset), so 190mm bodies seem to be becoming the norm. I have heard some folks report that he center of the tires is, for lack of a better term, "expanding" and leading to more of a motorcycle tire's rounded cross section. We've wondered if a 26mm wheel with help with this. Also, 26mm wheels have different offsets available.
Just my $0.02 worth.

IMO my tires worked better for me when they got this "motorcycle" tire effect and a bit more air gap. Not saying that 26mm tires wouldn't work for someone, but I am saying this isn't a "bad" thing.

Also the winner of the last Scale Nationals used a 200mm body on 24mm wheels. The car looked good to me. Maybe his dad will chime in on if he used any + offset.

No problem using 190mm bodies with 24mm wheels. Hell, even the Tamiya Challenge Series is back to using 24mm wheels/tires. Just wanted to see if the trend was indeed moving towards 24mm as the most common.

I was watching one of the gt/gts races today and Gt class was broken into GT and GT-A which i believe is an aero difference between the european and american teams. But it got me thinking could we do this in USGT? and let the gt-a cars run a 26mm spec tire or make the prototype bodies GT-A? Not trying to beat the dead horse just thought it was an interesting idea

nope. I'm fairly that's incorrect.

GT and GT-A has to do with 'professional' vs 'amatuer' race teams. I forget what the deciding factor is, but it has nothing to do with American v European manufacturers

let all the cars run together - splitting them up will only dilute any USGT class at most tracks. unless you are getting 50+ USGT drivers on a weekly basis, splitting a class into 2 more grouping is only going to hurt things...

now maybe, just maybe if you ran a local points series where you split the drivers up based on body design would something like this work. maybe a driver register at the start of the series to run XX body, then give points based on respective finishes. then splitting the class would work. otherwise, you'll just weaken the class

trust me, I've seen it happy way too many times :(

My opinion is to race the DP and GT cars together (just like the real cars do) and award finishes based on class. Maybe even allow the DP cars to run a different tire. The speeds will be so close it will not be a issue. I honestly believe that once the DP bodies get some more racing on them that they will have a slight advantage. I have seen people cutting out the back of them though. In the IMSA/Tudor series, the back is not open completely on the DP cars, I'm not sure about the LMP bodies though.

Me too. Drywall tape is just intended to hold joint compound until it dries. Its not structural fiberglass like the wing tape. Huge difference. Once the fiberglass wing tape is embedded in shoo goo, you have a strong fix.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...glasstape2.jpg

Actually, it sorta is both.

If we're talking about the GT classes in the Tudor series, then basically the two GT classes come from the Grand Am series and the ALMS series. When they combined, they kept a GT class from each. The Grand Am GT cars are the big American GT cars like Mustangs and Vettes and the other GTs are mainly Porsches and Ferraris.

At Daytona, the ALMS GTs were where the "Gentlemen Drivers" congregated...

Matts car was narrow with the jaco wheels and ride tires no spacers either up close I didnt lkke the look but on the track noone can tell

If for whatever reason you need to remove the ride tires from the rims DO NOT BOIL them, the insert shrinks in boiling water !!

I soked mine in acetone and it seemed to have actually softened the tire some. Not real sure about this, but they feel squishier. Could just be my mind playing games with me

I couldn't tell any difference in performance one way or another on a set I soaked once to remount on a different set of wheels. I've been using Sweep foam inserts which are acetone safe too ;)

More info here on the debate over the effects of acetone soaking:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ance-tire.html

I feel that once you condition the tires with some Simple Green, any moisture that may have been evaporated from the rubber initially after an acetone dunk, will have then been restored... or you can follow this guys tip here which would preserve the stock foams:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11449072-post10.html