Originally Posted by John Wallace2 (Post 14064911)

I remember a sign at the first race track my son and I went to: "Speed is measured in cubic dollars; how fast can you afford go to?" After doing this hobby/addiction for 30+ years I'm not sure I agree with you. If you think the world class mod drivers don't obsess over the same details (tires, batteries, vehicle drive train, etc.) as the guys that run the spec classes you simply haven't known a world class racer. Believe me they obsess about those details even more so than us guys who now just run the spec classes. IMO what makes spec classes costly or more costly than it needs to be is lack of quality control of the spec controlled parts (motors, batteries etc.). Take for example Street Spec, a old attempt to control the cost of racing. Good idea - IMO poor implementation. Take the Street Spec motor for example. You had to buy 5 or 10 to find that one that was awesome. Then we (me too) cut the rotor so small that it lasted only a few runs. (OH but you say, those weren't rebuildable motors how can you cut the coms? - my secret and it involve REVTEC com drops). Some realized the foolishness of all of this and pushed for rebuildable hand-wound high quality 19T motors, so instead of buying 10 $50 dollar motors we only had to buy 1 $80 good motor and replaced only that $19 armature instead of buying another 10 $50 dollar motors when the armature got too small.

Originally Posted by racenut123 (Post 14065346)

There are way more Spec Drivers then "world class mod" drivers. Spec racing has and will always drive the hobby. It's why we have classes like USGT, Street Spec, etc etc etc. It's why we have "blinky" ESCs and Premounted tires. There will always be cost control measures thrown in to try and control the class. But someone will always find ways around the spirit of those rules.This in turn causes people to either feel they need to buy the latest and the greatest to stay competitive, or stop running the class all together. The cycle continues,rinse repeat.

Originally Posted by racenut123 (Post 14065346)

But someone will always find ways around the spirit of those rules.This in turn causes people to either feel they need to buy the latest and the greatest to stay competitive, or stop running the class all together. The cycle continues,rinse repeat.

Originally Posted by howardcano (Post 14066215)

There is a third option: race with whoever is your speed. As I get older, I find that I don't much care where I finish, as long as I had a good race for that position. On any Sunday, only one guy will win the race, but everyone can have fun.

Originally Posted by howardcano (Post 14066215)

There is a third option: race with whoever is your speed. As I get older, I find that I don't much care where I finish, as long as I had a good race for that position. On any Sunday, only one guy will win the race, but everyone can have fun.

Originally Posted by howardcano (Post 14066215)

There is a third option: race with whoever is your speed. As I get older, I find that I don't much care where I finish, as long as I had a good race for that position. On any Sunday, only one guy will win the race, but everyone can have fun.

Originally Posted by Gravity Dodger (Post 14069274)

Sorry for the newbie question but is this Honda body legal for USGT?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-10-Painted...34430749&rt=nc

Originally Posted by Norman2 (Post 14069414)

Hi. It should be legal for USGT. It is the body of the Honda HSV-010 which
races in the Japanese Super GT Series in the GT500 class.
Regards
Norman
Here is the photo of the Raybrig team car

Originally Posted by old_dude (Post 14071768)

Here is a little info on my recent experience with a Turnigy TrackStar 17.5 on oval. High timing isn't everything. I was testing this motor on a Fantom Dyno and I noticed as I lowered the timing the first three readings showed larger RPM numbers and wattage but not the highest peak power. So now to track testing on an oval. I started with the peak power timing setting and everything was OK. as I backed down the timing and upped the roll out I got faster and the difference was noticeable on the straight. I settled on a spot 2 lines from the top for my motor. Our track was about a 145-155 runline and in the main I started with mid 3.9's but I finished still being able to run 4.0's. This setup shined from mid corner out as the bottom end grunt showed its stuff. One of those times where what you see on the dyno actually worked. Now I have to get this thing on the Motolyser to see what the real timing is.

Originally Posted by Jamison R (Post 14071771)

Just got a trinity D4 1s 21.5 was curious on what others are gearing this motor? As I understand it has more rpm than say my actinium 21.5. Any help appreciated. Indoor carpet track medium size.

Originally Posted by JimmyMac (Post 14072417)

Is this for the Awesomatix? I run one in mine for USGT. I'll message ya the gearing when I head back to the house.

Originally Posted by John Wallace2 (Post 14072148)

I sent you a PM, but after rereading your post I may have misinterpreted what you are saying. I was thinking peak RPM, but you may be talking about another RPM. What RPM are you talking about going up and the peak power (watts) going down? I'll go back through my many test runs as see if I find the same thing.

Originally Posted by old_dude (Post 14072448)

John:
Look at the first three readings on the tabled data. If you set the timing to high or to low they fall off. On the motor I was running the sweet spot appears to be at the next to the last line. If I am right it will be around 35 actual degrees of timing. As I go up from that the peak rpm climbs and the peak power climbs. But there is a price, the first numbers (where the motor works) get worse. Look closely at the every value in the first 5 readings. My motor was averaging 5600 rpm for a lap. Power above 8k means nothing in that case. Timing up and gearing down are counter productive as the amp draw climbs quicker than the power.

Originally Posted by John Wallace2 (Post 14072854)

I see what you are saying. BTW how big are the tracks you are running on in terms of length and lap times for USGT? I'm running on large outdoor tracks with 150 to 180 foot long straights and 18 to 20 second lap times on a good day in USGT.

Originally Posted by old_dude (Post 14072867)

The test I did was on an oval that was of medium length for an indoor track (150' run line). RPM's very only a small amount. Our indoor track for road course is basically built in a 90 x 40 box so our straights are only about 70'. The premise though still works. As you up the timing beyond a certain point the efficiency drops off so fast that the on track performance falls due to heat. That is what high static timing does and that is why the dynamic timing worked so well. For USGT and F1 we run our motors in the 40 to 45 degree range (actual). This seems to give the best balance of infield and straight. What you might find is that lowering your timing would actually work. On a touring car with rubber tires you run a roll out in the 2 to 3 range for 21.5 (our track). On the oval we are running between 4.5 and 5.5 with the 17.5's (one cell).
Our USGT and F1 lap times are in the 10 to 11 second range.

Originally Posted by Joe Maxey (Post 14082898)

I had a chance to run the new Cadillac ATS body from protoform yesterday. I only ran 1 qualifier (focused on other classes).

The body is really good. I didn't spend much time with it but I previously ran the Camaro ZL-1. The Cadillac felt very a lot like the Camaro but had more steering. I set Tq by more then 4 seconds. I think there is more in the body but I didn't have time to try anything.

Two thumbs up.

Originally Posted by Joe Maxey (Post 14082898)

I had a chance to run the new Cadillac ATS body from protoform yesterday. I only ran 1 qualifier (focused on other classes).

The body is really good. I didn't spend much time with it but I previously ran the Camaro ZL-1. The Cadillac felt very a lot like the Camaro but had more steering. I set Tq by more then 4 seconds. I think there is more in the body but I didn't have time to try anything.

Two thumbs up.

Originally Posted by NutDriver (Post 14091799)

Anyone been successful in getting a FWD car down to the 1250g minimum? I don't think that the Tamiya FF03 can get there very easily. Any others? I'd heard of one of the 3Racing cars getting there, but it's NLA.

Originally Posted by NutDriver (Post 14091799)

Anyone been successful in getting a FWD car down to the 1250g minimum? I don't think that the Tamiya FF03 can get there very easily. Any others? I'd heard of one of the 3Racing cars getting there, but it's NLA.

Originally Posted by trytowin (Post 14104630)

Opinion needed, which is better ?

1. New tires
2. Slightly used tires
3. Well used tires

Thanks :)

I race on asphalt, if that helps.

Originally Posted by trytowin (Post 14104630)

Opinion needed, which is better ?

1. New tires
2. Slightly used tires
3. Well used tires

Thanks :)

I race on asphalt, if that helps.