TC3 Assembly Tips, Factory Team Kit
12-28-2002, 07:19 PM
#1
TC3 Assembly Tips, Factory Team Kit
I recently built a new Factory Team TC3. I thought I would share some of these assembly tips as I have seen the same problems on some of the other racers kits that they have been running for a while.
Hand Fit the A-arm Hinge Pins.
The pins were not very straight on my kit. In addition some of the ends appeared to be cut with a shear and were a little rough. Sand these by rotating them by hand in some fine sandpaper until they will spin easily in A-arms.
Hand Fit the A-arms.
All four of the A-arms on my kit would not drop by gravity indicating excessive friction. I had to sand the A-arm mounts and the A-arms a bit to make them move easily. The car will not develop good grip if the suspension arms are binding.
Upper shock Pivots.
You should be able to rotate the shock a bit along its own axis at each of the pivots. This is a check to make sure the shock is not binding. The Plastic flanged nut on the upper shock mount did not clear the bell of the shock cap on my kit. If you snug the nut the shock will be binding on the flange. I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and took a light cut on the shock cap so that the nut’s flange would have some clearance. The bushing that the upper shock mounts pivot on should rotate easily in the shock. One of mine was too snug, so I sanded it a bit until the fit was good.
Front Outer Camber link Pivot
When I popped on the upper camber links they added some spring tension to the suspension. This occured on both sides of the car. The suspension needs to move freely. I replaced both outer camber link ball cups on the front with the Losi XXXS part which cured the problem. The Losi part has a little clearance cut which may have helped.
Gear Lash.
Three spacers on the input shafts of the gears seemed to be too much on my kit. There was no play and the gears were hard to turn. I reduced this to two spacers and the gears seemed to work fine.
Lube Port.
There is an extra screw hole on the upper part of the case that is not used that goes all the way into the gear train. You can use this hole to add a little lube once in a while. You should cover this hole with a small button head screw to prevent dirt entry.
The rest of the kit went together fine. If you built your kit without paying attention to some of these problems it is never to late to check them. Feel Free to add your own tips.
Hand Fit the A-arm Hinge Pins.
The pins were not very straight on my kit. In addition some of the ends appeared to be cut with a shear and were a little rough. Sand these by rotating them by hand in some fine sandpaper until they will spin easily in A-arms.
Hand Fit the A-arms.
All four of the A-arms on my kit would not drop by gravity indicating excessive friction. I had to sand the A-arm mounts and the A-arms a bit to make them move easily. The car will not develop good grip if the suspension arms are binding.
Upper shock Pivots.
You should be able to rotate the shock a bit along its own axis at each of the pivots. This is a check to make sure the shock is not binding. The Plastic flanged nut on the upper shock mount did not clear the bell of the shock cap on my kit. If you snug the nut the shock will be binding on the flange. I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and took a light cut on the shock cap so that the nut’s flange would have some clearance. The bushing that the upper shock mounts pivot on should rotate easily in the shock. One of mine was too snug, so I sanded it a bit until the fit was good.
Front Outer Camber link Pivot
When I popped on the upper camber links they added some spring tension to the suspension. This occured on both sides of the car. The suspension needs to move freely. I replaced both outer camber link ball cups on the front with the Losi XXXS part which cured the problem. The Losi part has a little clearance cut which may have helped.
Gear Lash.
Three spacers on the input shafts of the gears seemed to be too much on my kit. There was no play and the gears were hard to turn. I reduced this to two spacers and the gears seemed to work fine.
Lube Port.
There is an extra screw hole on the upper part of the case that is not used that goes all the way into the gear train. You can use this hole to add a little lube once in a while. You should cover this hole with a small button head screw to prevent dirt entry.
The rest of the kit went together fine. If you built your kit without paying attention to some of these problems it is never to late to check them. Feel Free to add your own tips.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-28-2002 at 07:22 PM.
12-29-2002, 08:09 AM
#2
Aluminum Screws
The Team Kit comes with many Aluminum Screws. Maybe a few too many. Some of the screws that I replaced with steel are the two screws at the bottom rear of the chassis. If this screw fails it may take the corner of the chassis with it (previous experience). I also used Steel screws to hold the gear cases down to the chassis. This might prevent problems with tweak later on after the car gets some wear. Run a steel screw (or tap) into all the holes that you plan to put an Aluminum screw. This was sufficient for easy insertion of all the Aluminum screws on my kit. I did not need to lube the screws.
12-29-2002, 08:59 AM
#3
Tech Regular
John,
Make sure you scrape the trans cases where the bearings ride. There sould be no clamping of the bearings. Any clamping of the bearings will add friction to the drivetrain.
Our cars will spin for quite a while.
Ted
Make sure you scrape the trans cases where the bearings ride. There sould be no clamping of the bearings. Any clamping of the bearings will add friction to the drivetrain.
Our cars will spin for quite a while.
Ted
12-29-2002, 12:18 PM
#4
Weight
Ted- Thanks for the tip.
I assembled the car with a GM V12 speed control, Airtronics M8 receiver and a stock motor. The weight is about 50.7 ounces without transponder.
I weighed the car side to side with transponder. The right side is about 1.3 ounces light with a transponder in the usual position to the right of the servo, so some lead can be added near the right side of the chassis. I'll get corner weights later and pinpoint the fore-aft position for the transponder and the extra weight.
I mounted the V12 on the edge on the inside edge of the tray with lead wire terminal up. I previously drilled the bottom of a couple of the solder tubes so that the wire could run from the bottom to the negative battery terminal. Receiver is flat outboard of the Speed control. This gave me short lead wires with a secure clearance over the drive shaft. I filled the bottom of the space between speed control and servo with some stiff foam for added security.
I assembled the car with a GM V12 speed control, Airtronics M8 receiver and a stock motor. The weight is about 50.7 ounces without transponder.
I weighed the car side to side with transponder. The right side is about 1.3 ounces light with a transponder in the usual position to the right of the servo, so some lead can be added near the right side of the chassis. I'll get corner weights later and pinpoint the fore-aft position for the transponder and the extra weight.
I mounted the V12 on the edge on the inside edge of the tray with lead wire terminal up. I previously drilled the bottom of a couple of the solder tubes so that the wire could run from the bottom to the negative battery terminal. Receiver is flat outboard of the Speed control. This gave me short lead wires with a secure clearance over the drive shaft. I filled the bottom of the space between speed control and servo with some stiff foam for added security.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-29-2002 at 12:25 PM.
12-29-2002, 01:48 PM
#5
Tech Regular
John,
Most of us have moved the battery in toward the center by cutting down the center part of the chassis. Move them as far as you can without hitting the driveshaft, it is about 3/8's I think.
It does not appear to weaken the chassis enough to notice. Josh Cyrul put a brace on his car but most people have not.
I have not measured the side to side weight but it has to be better.
Ted
Most of us have moved the battery in toward the center by cutting down the center part of the chassis. Move them as far as you can without hitting the driveshaft, it is about 3/8's I think.
It does not appear to weaken the chassis enough to notice. Josh Cyrul put a brace on his car but most people have not.
I have not measured the side to side weight but it has to be better.
Ted
12-29-2002, 02:11 PM
#6
Moving the batteries closer to center; I saw when they reviewed it in November's RCCA magazine that is what Barry Baker did on his TC3. I have to trim my KO Servo tabs in order to fit it down on my chassis. After talking to a couple of people, I guess that is common practice on certain servos.
I didn't buy my TC3 (Factory Team), but I have made some FT upgrades, and I did buy the aluminum screw set. I strongly advise against the use of aluminum screws on the bottom of the chassis at the rear of the car and the front (areas that are most susceptible to being scraped). I am actually 'now' replacing all of the aluminum chassis screws with steel. I ruined a graphite chassis, mainly because I wasn't being careful, and stripped the head.
And an easy out won't work with an aluminum screw. I should have (as you mentioned) pre-screwed with a metal stock screw to get the threads set. I use the Mylar adhesive film over those front and rear screws, but it can still be a problem. The Mylar gets pushed into the screw head, and when you attempt to get it out, you can ruin the screw head. So; I think it best to keep the 'nice' Blue aluminum screws on top. No problems there.
I didn't buy my TC3 (Factory Team), but I have made some FT upgrades, and I did buy the aluminum screw set. I strongly advise against the use of aluminum screws on the bottom of the chassis at the rear of the car and the front (areas that are most susceptible to being scraped). I am actually 'now' replacing all of the aluminum chassis screws with steel. I ruined a graphite chassis, mainly because I wasn't being careful, and stripped the head.
And an easy out won't work with an aluminum screw. I should have (as you mentioned) pre-screwed with a metal stock screw to get the threads set. I use the Mylar adhesive film over those front and rear screws, but it can still be a problem. The Mylar gets pushed into the screw head, and when you attempt to get it out, you can ruin the screw head. So; I think it best to keep the 'nice' Blue aluminum screws on top. No problems there.
Last edited by AGR#7; 12-29-2002 at 02:29 PM.
12-29-2002, 02:52 PM
#7
Wiring
Thanks for the added input guys. By the way, Ted, Good finish at the Cleveland Champs!. I think I'll run the car a bit before I cut the chassis.
Here is my first attempt at a picture. New digital camera. Still getting the settings and image size right. It looks OK at about 1/4 screen size.
(note that there is a better photo in my post of 1/2/2003)
Here is my first attempt at a picture. New digital camera. Still getting the settings and image size right. It looks OK at about 1/4 screen size.
(note that there is a better photo in my post of 1/2/2003)
Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-03-2003 at 08:29 PM.
12-29-2002, 06:55 PM
#10
Tech Initiate
John, I found one way of getting the weight right without adding any weight. I moved some cells around, I race outdoors on a big track shared with gas cars. I put 2 cells to the back then the speed control then 2 more cells. The other 2 go where the speed control was. The rec. goes on top of the servo. I used a small tekin. This made my car better balanced, actually a small amount right side heavy which is what I wanted because of our track design. This change also helped in tire wear as we run on somewhat abrasive asphalt. We run foam in stock class.
Craig
Craig
12-29-2002, 07:11 PM
#11
John, it will be interesting to read what you find in your shaft vs belt testing. Good luck.
I have a Losi and will probably keep it because 90% of my racing is offroad and I have Losi cars there and it's nice having the same diff parts in shock types in all the kits. However from what I've expeienced on tight carpet tracks the shaft may be the way to go. I'm still wrenching though and not gave up yet.
I have a Losi and will probably keep it because 90% of my racing is offroad and I have Losi cars there and it's nice having the same diff parts in shock types in all the kits. However from what I've expeienced on tight carpet tracks the shaft may be the way to go. I'm still wrenching though and not gave up yet.
12-30-2002, 07:53 AM
#13
Tech Fanatic
replacement screws
Do you know who makes steel or titanium screws for the bottom and what the sizes/quanity are? Thanks.
12-30-2002, 08:07 AM
#14
There are 18 total of 4-40 thread x 3/8 inch Flat head screws on the bottom of the chassis. The two steering screws are longer and came with steel screws on my kit. Personally I would use the Associated steel screws in places that I did not want aluminum. They come in packages of about 5 screws. They are about twice as strong as the 6 AL V4 titanium. Maybe someone else can post a site for good Titanium Screws. I have not purchased any.
12-30-2002, 09:27 AM
#15
Custom Deans Half Plugs
I thought I would describe how to make the connectors on my car in case it is of interest. Use a .010" thick Xacto saw which fits in the big handle to cut a male Deans plug in half. You can use both halves. Use the saw to cut the female connectors right along the negative terminal. Discard the negative half. This preserves the proper tension on the plug. Use the dremmel sanding wheel to round off the plugs a bit. Solder on as normal. Stretch some 1/4 inch high quality shrink wrap (not radioshack) by inserting the jaws of a needle nose pliers into it and pulling the handles apart. Quickly slip it over the plug and solder joint and heat shrink it in place. My test showed this connector to be as good resistance wise as the wire it replaces in the circuit. The advantage over a double plug is that in some cases you can reduce the amount of wire in the circuit. It also makes for a fairly neat connection.
Here is a picture of the Deans Half Plug. I apologize for the low quality of the first picture above. I had to get farther away to obtain the proper autofocus.
Here is a picture of the Deans Half Plug. I apologize for the low quality of the first picture above. I had to get farther away to obtain the proper autofocus.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-30-2002 at 09:29 AM.
