Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Worried about reliability of soldered connections >

Worried about reliability of soldered connections

Worried about reliability of soldered connections

Old 05-22-2004, 08:18 PM
  #31  
WC
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
 
WC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Global Citizen
Posts: 1,932
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

you guys are forgetting one thing... "heat mass".

I have used all kinds of soldering tools last 30-odd yrs... some good, some hopeless.

A 100W soldering gun with the bent wire element is COMPLETELY HOPELESS for soldering batteries. Useless for electronics work too - yes I've got one. Heats up quick.

It might heat up fast (100W) but its got no where to store that heat. When you touch a big conductive surface (battery or motor tab) it'll suck all the heat away, you've got no reserves.


Conversely... a 60-80W soldering iron with a big fat element & chunky tip... that's got LOTS of heat mass. Those things take 5+ mins to heatup to working temp... but after you unplug it it'll stay hot enough to work for quite some time.

That's HEAT MASS working for you.

Touch the battery bar & flow your solder in less than 5 seconds and your cells won't even feel the pain.


But I wouldn't use that big-ass iron on delicate electronics though... get a separate iron for the tinier stuff like servo wires etc.
WC is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 12:24 AM
  #32  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 195
Default

Originally posted by stumper
Dont listen to that guy....You dont HAVE to have $100 iron to make good solder joints. I have a $6 towerhobbies 60 watt iron that works like a champ. It sounds like the iron isnt getting hot. Give it a couple minutes before you try to solder. You should be able to melt solder on the tip with ease before you can use it.

and one more thing. Use the thinner solder like the 1/32 stuff and not the 1/16. Its melts quicker and makes less of a mess.
I never said you have to have a $100 iron, but it helps, and it will by far outlast any $20 iron. Thats a fact. I can leave my iron on all day at the track 7+ hours and not have a single problem with it. I have left my hakko on for 2 days straigh on accident with no problems. Tip is still fine. Hell at the birds my iron was on for damn near a week straight, mon-sun in our booth, and there was no problems with it. Try that with any $20 iron. I had a bunch of "cheap" irons that all burnt up untill I got a good one.

say what you want, but not only will a good station work better, but it will last for years (2,3,4,5+) While a $20 iron will have a hard time making the season, if your racing week in and week out. Thats a fact jack.
JPHRacer is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 12:54 AM
  #33  
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

JPHRacer - As long as you buy or build a switch to cut it from full wave to half wave the irons and the tips last for ages. I leave my weller 40wt on "half wave" every race day(7-8 hours) and it's still working great after a few months of use. On full wave I had trouble with my tips pitting but on half-wave I havn't had any trouble with the tips at all.
fatdoggy is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 03:31 AM
  #34  
Tech Addict
 
Simon K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 573
Wink

I've used Master Butane soldering irons for the past 10+ years. The only time I had a problem was with some solder I was given in an emergency. Up til then, I'd been trouble free.

All you need is...
Good hot iron with a sufficiently wide tip.
Damp sponge to clean hot tip.
Good quality solder to tin tip...then tin wire or battery bar.

No problemo.
Simon K is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 01:59 PM
  #35  
Tech Master
 
UCHEATULOSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: birth place of oval! daytona beach!
Posts: 1,083
Default Re: Worried about reliability of soldered connections

Originally posted by imjonah
Solder and me do not seem to get along. Is there some gel, paste or liquid that is both conductive and adhesive that can be used as a replacement for solder.
------------------------------------------------------------------


B. Why in an situation where I know an object will be subject to high speed impacts and sever jolts, major g forces do I want to depend on the adhesive properties of solder to hold 2 pieces of metal together.

C. If I wrap a wire around a post, or I have some kind of connector like a deans plug or a bullet type electric plug, I can look at the connection I can tug on the wire, I can actually test the level of adhesion or security of the connection. With a soldered connection I am always afraid of pulling on the connection and I have no confidence in a visual inspection.
------------------
My primary interest is reliability but I want to find a method which does not negatively effect the power of my car.

HOW DO YOU USE DEANS PLUGS WITHOUT SOLDERING THE WIRE TO THE PLUG? OR ANY OTHER CONNECTOR ON THE MARKET? PLUGS ARE USED FOR BACK YARD BASHING WHERE CONVIENENCE RULES. IN A MARKET WHERE WE PAY AN EXTRA 10.00 A CELL FOR .01 VOLTS SOLDERING IS A MUST. BUT IN THE BACK YARD OR OUT AT THE BALL FIELD BASHING YOUR READY TO RUN PLUGS ARE GREAT IF ONLY FOR THE LACK OF HAVING TO CARRY AROUND A SOLDERING IRON OR LOOKING FOR A A/C OUTLET TO EVEN USE ONE.. TELL GOOBER I SAID HEY
UCHEATULOSE is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 02:19 PM
  #36  
Tech Elite
 
fatdoggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MD USA
Posts: 3,642
Default

UCHEATULOSE - Firstly I know one guy at my local track who uses deans ultras and he's very quick. Second you can buy deans piggytails which already have wire soldered onto the deans plugs. All you have to do it solder the wires to the cells. I doubt there is much difference between direct soldering and deans overall.
fatdoggy is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 03:36 PM
  #37  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Jose California
Posts: 1,251
Default Re: Re: Worried about reliability of soldered connections

Originally posted by UCHEATULOSE
HOW DO YOU USE DEANS PLUGS WITHOUT SOLDERING THE WIRE TO THE PLUG? OR ANY OTHER CONNECTOR ON THE MARKET? PLUGS ARE USED FOR BACK YARD BASHING WHERE CONVIENENCE RULES. IN A MARKET WHERE WE PAY AN EXTRA 10.00 A CELL FOR .01 VOLTS SOLDERING IS A MUST. BUT IN THE BACK YARD OR OUT AT THE BALL FIELD BASHING YOUR READY TO RUN PLUGS ARE GREAT IF ONLY FOR THE LACK OF HAVING TO CARRY AROUND A SOLDERING IRON OR LOOKING FOR A A/C OUTLET TO EVEN USE ONE.. TELL GOOBER I SAID HEY
Save this for reference:


If your bashing, wouldn't standard Tamiya plugs be just fine?

I use Deans plugs....I've never had a problem with them disconnecting & I honestly can't detect a difference in hardwiring & deans

I use a 40 Watt Weller I got from Fry's for $15...seems to work okay....wouldn't get that peticular one if I got another (tips kinda suck on the cheap wellers)
The Black Kat is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 05:25 PM
  #38  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 612
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by JPHRacer
I never said you have to have a $100 iron, but it helps, and it will by far outlast any $20 iron. Thats a fact. I can leave my iron on all day at the track 7+ hours and not have a single problem with it. I have left my hakko on for 2 days straigh on accident with no problems. Tip is still fine. Hell at the birds my iron was on for damn near a week straight, mon-sun in our booth, and there was no problems with it. Try that with any $20 iron. I had a bunch of "cheap" irons that all burnt up untill I got a good one.

say what you want, but not only will a good station work better, but it will last for years (2,3,4,5+) While a $20 iron will have a hard time making the season, if your racing week in and week out. Thats a fact jack.
I have had my $6 iron for a year and its working just fine thanks! And im sure my new hakko $11 iron will last just aslong or longer.
stumper is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:27 PM
  #39  
Tech Master
 
DOMOisCOOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Daly City, California, U.S.A.
Posts: 1,914
Default

Originally posted by stumper
I have had my $6 iron for a year and its working just fine thanks! And im sure my new hakko $11 iron will last just aslong or longer.
Is it the Hakko Red 506 iron? I got mine for the same price and it works great!
DOMOisCOOL is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:29 PM
  #40  
Tech Master
 
DOMOisCOOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Daly City, California, U.S.A.
Posts: 1,914
Default Re: Re: Re: Worried about reliability of soldered connections

Originally posted by The Black Kat
Save this for reference:


If your bashing, wouldn't standard Tamiya plugs be just fine?

I use Deans plugs....I've never had a problem with them disconnecting & I honestly can't detect a difference in hardwiring & deans

I use a 40 Watt Weller I got from Fry's for $15...seems to work okay....wouldn't get that peticular one if I got another (tips kinda suck on the cheap wellers)
Tamiya plugs have higher resistance than the Deans plugs. So if you use Deans, you will get more run time, which is a plus with bashing. Since you want to get the most run time out of the packs.
DOMOisCOOL is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:30 PM
  #41  
Tech Master
 
UCHEATULOSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: birth place of oval! daytona beach!
Posts: 1,083
Default

Originally posted by fatdoggy
UCHEATULOSE - Firstly I know one guy at my local track who uses deans ultras and he's very quick. Second you can buy deans piggytails which already have wire soldered onto the deans plugs. All you have to do it solder the wires to the cells. I doubt there is much difference between direct soldering and deans overall.
you mentioned soldered or soldering 3 times in that reply..this guy doesn't want to have anything soldered. he is claiming soldering or using solder joints is a bad idea.. he mentioned in hard hits the solder joints will come apart yet the rest of the car will survive ok? lol if you own a r/c car you will at one time or another be required to solder something... you might as well accept that fact and learn the proper method of a quality solder joint. again the best plug in the world over time will need to be sanded or shined up ..over time a well used plug will become suspect..i good hot iron (not a gun) in your pits is a must when racing..playing around and bashing plugs are for sure the way to fly..avoid soldering "guns" like the plague...if your serious about racing learn to solder..just want to play use plugs just my .02 but i have yet to pick up a r/c mag and had the winners car at a national event with plugs and pig tails and anything other than directly soldered..not to mention they remove the speedo cases and receiver cases to save weight..and thinking about speedos..ever wanted to replace those old wires or had one cut back so short it didn't reach your motor anymore? yup thats right they are also soldered in..i find replacing those wires on a regular basis ..in oval the placement of your electronics can be important..i cannot think of one negative effect directly soldering your electronics,batteries and motor has on performance..if you are in a wreck bad enough to break a solder joint you have more problems than that with your car,lol..get a broom and dust pan to pick it up...

as for the use of the cap button: did i hurt your ears? or did it effect your eyes when you read my post? loosen up
UCHEATULOSE is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:32 PM
  #42  
Tech Master
 
DOMOisCOOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Daly City, California, U.S.A.
Posts: 1,914
Default

Originally posted by UCHEATULOSE
as for the use of the cap button: did i hurt your ears? or did it effect your eyes when you read my post? loosen up
In forums, it is considered rude to have caps lock on. Caps lock is a sign of yelling/shouting.
DOMOisCOOL is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:47 PM
  #43  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Littleton, CO - USA
Posts: 1,708
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hmm...I use deans plugs for my batts...

So do alot of folks...I didn't know that made us "bashers."

I guess my winning the 2001 SE ROAR touring stock regionals with deans plugs was a fluke...


Clean your deans with a q-tip and some denatured alcohol and you'll be golden.
Soviet is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:57 PM
  #44  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
JusBox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central VA
Posts: 2,170
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

This thread is getting stupid really fast. Soldering is a basic, essential skill in this hobby and if you can't do it, learn.
JusBox is offline  
Old 05-23-2004, 08:06 PM
  #45  
Tech Master
 
DOMOisCOOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Daly City, California, U.S.A.
Posts: 1,914
Default

Originally posted by Soviet
Hmm...I use deans plugs for my batts...

So do alot of folks...I didn't know that made us "bashers."

I guess my winning the 2001 SE ROAR touring stock regionals with deans plugs was a fluke...


Clean your deans with a q-tip and some denatured alcohol and you'll be golden.
No one really said that. Just that some people think direct soldering has less resistance.
DOMOisCOOL is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.