Yokomo R12
#841
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)

thanks for the info. but i feel bad about they dropped the "old" wheel. the r12's wheel to me seems to be the offset of honda's car versus toyota's car. the bigger the offset number means the hub point is more at the end of four corner, contributes more grid
and yokomo finally compromised its design
and yokomo finally compromised its design
#842
Tech Regular

I now have a offset hub that will fit the Yokomo so you can run my offset wheels.
www.proonerc.com go to catalog. My wheel has a 19mm offset similar to the Yokomo wheels.
Steve Dunn
www.proonerc.com go to catalog. My wheel has a 19mm offset similar to the Yokomo wheels.
Steve Dunn
#843

I now have a offset hub that will fit the Yokomo so you can run my offset wheels.
www.proonerc.com go to catalog. My wheel has a 19mm offset similar to the Yokomo wheels.
Steve Dunn
www.proonerc.com go to catalog. My wheel has a 19mm offset similar to the Yokomo wheels.
Steve Dunn
#844

At yesterday's IFMAR off road worlds I managed to have a quick chat with the designer of the R12. I asked him about when it will be released. He said "February or March" of next year. The production version might be slightly different to the prototype. However, the new wheels are going to be used.
#846

After seeing the photographs of the new side damper tube system for the R12. I decided to come up with something similar.
The only additional parts I used was a Tamiya 104 roll damper OP.1413 F104. You'll need 2 to complete the conversion.
In the photograph I only have one Tamiya tube installed.
What did I do to make it work?
I cut down the two aluminum posts off off R12-22. I cut them down and made sure they were flush with the center brace. This allowed the carbon fiber cross brace to be lower by approximately 2.5 mm. This allowed the damper tubes to function properly without making contact with the upper or lower plates. Next I flipped the carbon fiber cross around so the body posts holes on the carbon fiber cross brace are more forward. Original kit position has the body posts facing rearward. No changes were made to the upper plate.
The Tamiya damper tubes were fitted with BD7 ball cups on the plastic tube side and the Yokomo R12-37R with R12-19 on the aluminum tube side. You might have to cut your ball cups down in order for the damper tube to work accordingly.You will also need part number R12-03FN, R12-10LF, and some M2.5x6 mm screws and ball ends.
You will mount the aluminum tube side in the holes where the body posts are located. Take a long screw and thread the screw through the ball end. Make sure the "neck" of the ball end is touching the chassis. Then you take a "loose" ball (R12-19) and thread that down on top. This will act as a spacer between the ball cup and body post. This will allow the ball cup to move freely when you have mounted the body post. If you don't do this it will bind.
That's it.
Oh, since you've cut down the center aluminum brace you're going to have to readjust your side spring tension.... A lot. I run my side springs on the inner position, which is fine. I don't know if the outer (on top of side link) position will work after this modification.
The only additional parts I used was a Tamiya 104 roll damper OP.1413 F104. You'll need 2 to complete the conversion.
In the photograph I only have one Tamiya tube installed.
What did I do to make it work?
I cut down the two aluminum posts off off R12-22. I cut them down and made sure they were flush with the center brace. This allowed the carbon fiber cross brace to be lower by approximately 2.5 mm. This allowed the damper tubes to function properly without making contact with the upper or lower plates. Next I flipped the carbon fiber cross around so the body posts holes on the carbon fiber cross brace are more forward. Original kit position has the body posts facing rearward. No changes were made to the upper plate.
The Tamiya damper tubes were fitted with BD7 ball cups on the plastic tube side and the Yokomo R12-37R with R12-19 on the aluminum tube side. You might have to cut your ball cups down in order for the damper tube to work accordingly.You will also need part number R12-03FN, R12-10LF, and some M2.5x6 mm screws and ball ends.
You will mount the aluminum tube side in the holes where the body posts are located. Take a long screw and thread the screw through the ball end. Make sure the "neck" of the ball end is touching the chassis. Then you take a "loose" ball (R12-19) and thread that down on top. This will act as a spacer between the ball cup and body post. This will allow the ball cup to move freely when you have mounted the body post. If you don't do this it will bind.
That's it.
Oh, since you've cut down the center aluminum brace you're going to have to readjust your side spring tension.... A lot. I run my side springs on the inner position, which is fine. I don't know if the outer (on top of side link) position will work after this modification.
Last edited by EDWARD2003; 12-09-2015 at 10:19 PM.
#850

if tube length is the issue, then:
Onpoint and CEFX use a compact damper tube. Mudslide is selling the onpoint tubes. They are similar diameter, but shorter to other current 1/12 cars.
Onpoint and CEFX use a compact damper tube. Mudslide is selling the onpoint tubes. They are similar diameter, but shorter to other current 1/12 cars.
#851

Hey, got the 1/12th with the Tamiya dampers to work. The car handled really well with the new tubes. Managed to qualify 3rd in the A-main.
On a side note I am in desperate need of part # R12-04N (Graphite lower pod plate). Most, if not all the online stores in Japan are out of stock. Yokomo has discontinued this part as well. That said, I was wondering if anyone knows of a place (in a hobby shop) in U.S.A or Europe that might have these in stock. I'm looking for several of them.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
On a side note I am in desperate need of part # R12-04N (Graphite lower pod plate). Most, if not all the online stores in Japan are out of stock. Yokomo has discontinued this part as well. That said, I was wondering if anyone knows of a place (in a hobby shop) in U.S.A or Europe that might have these in stock. I'm looking for several of them.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
#852

Hey, got the 1/12th with the Tamiya dampers to work. The car handled really well with the new tubes. Managed to qualify 3rd in the A-main.
On a side note I am in desperate need of part # R12-04N (Graphite lower pod plate). Most, if not all the online stores in Japan are out of stock. Yokomo has discontinued this part as well. That said, I was wondering if anyone knows of a place (in a hobby shop) in U.S.A or Europe that might have these in stock. I'm looking for several of them.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
On a side note I am in desperate need of part # R12-04N (Graphite lower pod plate). Most, if not all the online stores in Japan are out of stock. Yokomo has discontinued this part as well. That said, I was wondering if anyone knows of a place (in a hobby shop) in U.S.A or Europe that might have these in stock. I'm looking for several of them.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
http://www.teamyokomo.eu/lower-brace...rld-conversion
#853
Tech Regular

http://www.fast-webshop.com/tonispor...rld-Conversion
Martin Paradis
P.S. Have you heard anything lately regarding the the new car?
#854
#855

On the latest car R12 C3.1 is there anything different how 1/12 rear wheels/tires bolt on and lineup from other manufacturers?
I know the yellow rim Yokomo ones are good and they are like the coolest looking. But how about everything else? CRC, Gravity RC, BSR, Ulti, Jaco, etc.
Considering the one for sale above.
I know the yellow rim Yokomo ones are good and they are like the coolest looking. But how about everything else? CRC, Gravity RC, BSR, Ulti, Jaco, etc.
Considering the one for sale above.