frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Dispite a lot of comments in this thread regarding leaking I would like to point out that a correctly designed gear diff put together correctly will not leak and they will last almost forever. Such as kyosho, mugen Tamiya gear diffs which I have used in the passed with zero leaking issues

Whilst from a ease of maintance perspective I would rather a gear diff I have to admit when I change rear suspension settings I will also be doing so with an adjustment of the a ball diff which just isn't feaseable with a gear diff in a lot of circumstances between runs

Combined with non ease of adjustment and the added roational mass I am not convinced using a gear diff and in class other than mod will be better.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

That's why you buy multiple gear diffs and build them with different oils

JayL

umm have you weighed them

my nt1 diff with capricorn gears weighs 2 grams more than my stock diff, feel that

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

mist467

iTrader: (27)

So can you use a nt1 diff for a t3??...I read something like that before but cant remember where. I would rather go that route then spec r

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Yes you can. Ive made 5 of them so far lol, its not to hard to mod to work

Skiddins

You're talking about 1/8 gear diffs, which have to handle slightly different power and weight ratings etc.

There isn't much difference in weight between a ball diff and the gear diff (6g on my T3) which is less than the difference between the one-ways and spools etc that people used to change between (without thinking twice).

The difference in drive out of a corner, and especially off the line in a final can be staggering, although you do have to change the driving style slightly due to the extra grunt out of corners which can unbalance things if you're not careful.

Skiddins

mist467

iTrader: (27)

BlackedoutRevo mind filling me in on whats needed? Or if there is a write up somewhere. Just want to make sure i have everything i need so i can try it this weekend. Thanks

billjacobs

iTrader: (65)

when assembling the 3 racing gear diff, seat the rubber gasket into the pulley side. This should fix the wobble. You shouldn't overtighten the 2 sides together.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

They were all 1/10th diffs and at least with those diffs there was a difference in weight but then again they were well made didn't leak or chew up gears which it sounds like this new range of TC gear diffs are very marginal most likely in an effort to save weight.

The Tamiya in particlar came with a stock gear diff and the ball diff was an optional hop up. I switched both ways a few times which is one of the reasons I ended up with the opinion and comments above.

Re more drive out of a corner I have not experienced this from switching the the tamiya car from gear diffs to ball diffs then back to gear diffs. The only difference I have noticed is there is additional friction before the diff slips (not noticeable on track) with a gear diff as more force is required to overcome sticktion of the seals and oil.

JayL

http://www.rctech.net/forum/7121865-post1660.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/7120864-post1653.html


BOR's look waay better

Satish

iTrader: (7)

Hey Guys,

Sorry to change topic, installed the Gear diff in my xray 009 EU, with 52mm drive shafts.

Seems that the shafts butt up against the inside of the diff?

Do i have to get shorter shafts for the rear, i cant get the upper link to scre into the rear hub?

Any ideas??

thanks

s

hardmankam

you should use 50mm shafts when using spec-r gear diff.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

Or space the lower rear roll centres out buy .075 per side

This is what i did

kschu

iTrader: (16)

u need this