Xs-ive R/c Design's Freedom Tc3
 

The thread is back up and running.. everything has been squared away with rctech so i can answer all your questions,


for the main website for XS-IVE R/C please go here

XS-IVE R/C HOMPAGE


And for everyone who says it is a rip off of a warpspedd please check this link and u can see all of the differences... there is actually 17 things different on the freedom chassis...

freedom/demon comparison page

thanks in advance to everyone who checks it out.. and please keep the bashing down... If u dont like what u see keep it to yourself.. this thread is meant for information and question answering.. just because u support a different chassis does not make it right to bash ......


the chassis has been running very well... im liking it more and more ...

http://www.geocities.com/boxerking19...?1084163730312

click the link to see that rear toe in setup on the car...

I just got my Freedom chassis the other day and i cant wait to hit the track, looks like its packed with features, plus its diferent from the same old tc3 stuff so hopefully i can get it running smooth.

Dude just want to ask how much is did you get your freedom chassis?. :confused: :sweat: :nod:

Wilke how many brownie points did you get for that post?:lol:

Burb- How effective is the freedom chassis? Is it better than the BMI/Warpspeed?

Chassis effectiveness is about 10% the chassis design and 90% driver / mechanic tuning.

Just by looking at it one could see that compared to the BMI and even the warpspeed that this freedom chassis would have MUCH more flex. Prolly a hot setup for med-rough asphalt, however for carpet I'm sure the other two would be a bit stiffer.

However thats not to say that any of the 3 aren't good or what have you. Simply pick the one that you fancy and run it's balls off. :D

I like the idea of saddle packs toward the middle of the car though. ;)

Anyone that knows me can tell you I'm not one to brag, but I have to say that I've NEVER been beaten by any drivers in our area that run an aftermarket chassis setup on their TC3. And to be honest, the first year the car was out, I ran a regular Team, then switched to a Factory Team, and other than the convenience of the droop screws and threaded body shocks, I can't say that there was any sort of performance advantage by going with the more expensive kit.
Associated hit the nail on the head with the TC3. My OPINION is that a small company with nowhere near the r/c experience, nor the funding of Associated could actually improve on the design. Mock the geometry and have near idendical handling? Sure. Add some bling? Not hard to do.
If you want the trickest looking car on the block, spend the money on the aftermarket chassis kits. If you want to win races, keep your "stock" FT and spend some cash on driving lessons and some better batteries. The TC3 needs nothing more than a capable driver to win a race.

Soviet... actually the freedom has less flex then the warpspeed.. i have not seen a bmi to compare it to... the freedom is wider then the rest in all the key areas... i tried it witout the side braces and could not notice much difference in flex from using them...any flat grafite chassis will have more flex then a composite tub...most people i know run rubber tires on carpet.. so it seems a little flex is good,.. it also seem people on asphalt tend to like a bit more to... flex is not always bad... uneven flex is bad.. if u can get it to work properly it can actually help a car perform better...
the first set i have made are .100 grafite... I have to order some 3mm to see if there is a bigger advantage to less flex... im more concerened with the 3mm being to heavy....

Skip.. wilke has one of my chassis kits.... he has one of the first protos done in 3mm fiberglass,, it is alot heavier then the grafite version, but it is just as stiff if not stiffer...Wlike is one of my testing boys..... as soon as the motor mounts are done.. he will have it on the track...Im running mine with a warpspeed motor mount just so i can run it...

Wency_TA03R-PRO.... i personally like it better then the demon i had... I have not tried a BMI so i cant compare it to that...the way the chassis is designed, it has even fles from side to side,, the chassis is almost a miror image, and the toplate is a mirror image... i feel that the more even the chassis is the more consistent it will be... plus u can put the battery weight all around the chassis for that perfect wieght bias...

i showed the chassis to a guy who is an engineer for team associated.. he said it looks like it has lots of potential.. Im also tring it this friday with the adjustable rear toe setup on it...


the design will change slightly ... mainly to correct a few things i noticed could be better.. like the rear toe setup... im moving the mounts out on the chassis.. so u can run shorter tie rods..i dont like the long ones.. im afraid in a wreck it could be dammaged or bent

Im shooting for less then a month for sales to begin... the kit price will be 105.99.. this includes the chassis. toplate. motor mount.. and all nessessary hardware needed....right now the wait is on the motor mounts..seeme like the machinest gets slower and slower.. ha ha...

"i showed the chassis to a guy who is an engineer for team associated.. he said it looks like it has lots of potential."

Wow. Was it Cliff Lett?

TO my understandance, FLex is Bad. People think Flex is good on asphalt but, I have heard It is EASIER to drive with flex. IF you have a Rock solid Chassis and the setup on car works good I bet It will be faster than a flexible car. People have said The car seems to be fast(w/ flex) because its much easier. When a Car has flex the car itself is easier to drive than a Car that is rock solid But, a Rock solid car with a Good setup will feel slower but it will be faster. (correct me if im wrong):cool:

if the rear toe and the tons of Cell Adjustment was so easy to think of.... And Works Awsome. Why wasn't it created before?:confused:

Wierd. I was able to get dead-nuts 50/50 right to left balance on my TC3 by simply paying attention to how I mounted the electronics.
The problem I see with the additional chassis width is having the chassis drag in corners, especially on rough or bumpy tracks. And all the battery slots would have to take it's toll on rigidity and strength. I'd actually be interested in finding out how much less your chassis weighs than the stocker.

In theory, chassis flex works in cooperation with the suspension on rough tracks. It can provide some lateral twist in corners to help absorb imperfections in the track. The problem that I've found with this is that few manufacturers take this in to account when designing the cars, i.e., there's no way to accurately guage flex. After the Pro 3 was released, HPI tried to say that all the flex was intentional, and that it made the car a great rough track performer. Boy, were they wrong! You'd think off road cars would have more flexible chassis...
That's not to say that a SMALL degree of flex can't be used as a tuning aid, if you offer a method of adding or removing upper deck spacers. The problem with this is that you're adding or removing weight as well.
Finally, keep in mind that by changing the width of the pivot blocks and upper arms you could severely affect the roll center. It doesn't take much.

Correct But, If you have a great Traction and could get MORE Go stiffer. People in the AE team were cutting the braces so it flexes even more from what the tub flexs. They said they couldnt get traction so they had to do that. I believe flex will slow you down, the stiffer the better if You can drive it.