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Old 05-21-2010, 10:18 AM   #1
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Default TC3 Slipping, Need Advice!

Hey guys, i just put together my TC3 with a Traxxas Velineon setup and everything went great until I started having fun with the stupid power on a 3S pack, was doing AWD donuts and now the rear end slips and wont engage when it has any pressure on it. I've taken it apart several times and checked the diff, pins, and C-clips and everything seems to be fine. No metal shards in the diff, and its shimmed properly, I tightened the spring inside the diff and its probably too tight now, and the mesh is good on the diff and pinion gears. Im lost and cant figure out why its slipping now.

If I hold the car in the air and get on the throttle, it has no problem turning the rear wheels, but when i sit it on the ground and go for it, it has nothing. The fronts will engage and spin no problem but when i set the rear tires on the ground to check, it just slips and puts no power to the wheels.

I'm new to TC3's and if anyone has some insight, please let me know. Thanks in advance for any help
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:21 AM   #2
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Did you check the hex adapters at the end of the axles? Maybe you sheared a roll pin?
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:12 PM   #3
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good idea, but i checked and they're fine. bent a little but still in good working order. i just dont understand what could be wrong. everything looks good.
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:15 PM   #4
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Have you tried tightening the rear diff all the way? Nvm, saw that you tried that.

Other thing I would try is swapping the front and rear diffs to rule out a diff problem.
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:34 PM   #5
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yeah ill try that. its a direct swap?
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:37 PM   #6
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You may have sheared the pin that holds the pinion inside the transmission. Obviously, something in the driveline isn't connected.
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:41 PM   #7
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Yes, if you bought the kit, it comes with similar diffs for the front and rear, not a one way or spool.
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhberger View Post
You may have sheared the pin that holds the pinion inside the transmission. Obviously, something in the driveline isn't connected.
i agree, hold the drive shaft still and try to rotate the gear on the end of the drive shaft that spins the diff.
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:55 PM   #9
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found the problem after taking it apart yet again. The ring gear in the diff spins freely apart from the diff itself. Theres some melted plastic around it too. I'm not crazy about how they assemble the diffs, but ill try to find an assembled one, or look for the bulletproof ones. Any suggestions on where to look?
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:29 PM   #10
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I priced out the steel diff kits and its pretty expensive to get it front and back, so im looking into a rear spool. Anyone here have one installed? It should improve traction but ill lose some cornering. Any thoughts? I just beat around parking lots and drift it.
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:53 PM   #11
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Spool in the rear won't work very well..it will become a plow..even if you used the whole parking lot you'd still hit the curb on the other side..theirs nothing wrong with the stock diffs, get the white nylon ring gear for the rear, about the same price as the stock ones..just make sure their tight (as in not much slip) and you'll be fine, I was running a 5 wind with lipos and NEVER smoked a diff, it just comes down to making sure everything is tight and maintained..just remember Nothing is bulitproof..and no ball diff lasts forever..if your running in a parking lot when the diffs feel gritty..rebuild them, and when you tighten them for the first time..go slow, tighten it a little, spin the diffs then tighten it a bit more, if you just crank it down you can damage the spring and the races..and the diff balls..
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:01 PM   #12
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normally ive heard nothing but good things about the spool. i do realize that it completely locks the rear, but didnt think it would affect cornering that much. Are the steel diffs worth $35 a piece? if i could find an assembled stock diff at a decent price, id look more into it. mine doesnt even have a spring in it... facepalm. guess thats what happens when you go used.
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:53 PM   #13
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you dont need to spend a lot of money to fix the problem all you need is the steel outdrives for a tc4. it the same one out the tc3 nitro but it will need to be shorten a little with a dremel tool to get the dog bones to fit right. you can install it like it is but you will quickly see it to long and the suspension will have limited movement. i trimmed a it a little and had to cut the slots out a little


towerhobby has it they seem to think it is a direct fit but it is not i assure you 18.00

all you will need is the steel diff in the back the front will be fine with the plastic diff

im new so it wont let me post a link or a pic of mine or i would
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:12 PM   #14
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The steel outdrives will not cure a melted diff, the ring gear is still the same plastic..the steel outdrives do eat the pins on your CVD's a lot faster also..your problem with the "melted" center ring gear is still a cause and affect "problem" and you would have had the same result even if you had used steel outdrives..build your diff per the manual and you will not have any problems..ever notice it's the select "few" that have the "problems"..
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:43 PM   #15
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These are the parts you should have had when you took your diff apart..if you didn't have the spring, it would explain why you had problems..
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