radarwill

Thanks again. I wish we had some racing around here that ran the XXX-S so I could see what the people who know run.
I run the threaded aftermarket shocks all the way around, but am still working with springs to get the front suspension to relax and not always be on the top with the pre-load adjusted fully up .28 seems close to an 1/18th scale shock. Are these what you are talking about?

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

The .28 shocks ARE noticably shorter than the .36 shocks, but that makes them perfect for the front of the XXX-S for pavement or carpet racing. (I use them for both...)

Switching the front suspension of the XXX-S to "low rollcenter" also lowers the front of the chassis. The LOSI "low rollcenter" blocks are actuall sort of "Mid rollcenter" -- the aluminum low rollcenter blocks by Trinity are TRUE low rollcenter. For parking lot racing I use the Trinity blocks...

sloshedmr_bones

iTrader: (6)

Well the rain finally slowed donw here and gave me some time to drive and i was having problems with the temps getting really hot. I am running a Mamba max brushless 5700kv in my car with 87 or 88 spur with a 17t pinion. The spur is neon yellow if that helps and i know theres 2. Didn't get through a full pack before it got too hot. Any suggestions on gearing it. I have tried 18t pinion and thats didnt work the settings on my esc are stock settings. I just dont wanna keep buy pinions and find out its the wrong one. Some info would be great. I have read the gearing on castles website but thats is a guideline more than anything. HELP PLEASE!

radarwill

Once I understood the .28 measurement and added a little fuel line hose to my threaded aluminums I knew you were right! It seems that with the Silver 1 inch (lightest) spring from Losi the front will sit on top of the spring with only a small droop. I want to be able to back off on the front shock adjustment when I have a fresh, tall set of foams on. What the length on you springs?

BTW I'm just fine tunning now, after I tightned properly the diffs, 90% of my complaints went away. Rookie mistake.

radarwill

It dosent seem the 88/17 is way off. If that motor is getting that hot then it points to other issues. If you pull the motor out of the car, it should roll across the floor with ease. Does yours? Maybe you have a drivetrain issue.

sloshedmr_bones

iTrader: (6)

car rolls freely without motor and nothing is binding with the motor in there. Checked for that so the only thing thought it could be was pinion.

radarwill

I would then call Castle Creations. I'm sure they have the information you are after.

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure what exactly you're asking, but I'll take a shot...

My front shocks are .28 bodies and shafts, and even for rubber tires I run .030' internal limiters (less stress on the droop screws)...

For foams, I run .28 bodies and shafts with additional limiters.

I would think that you should be able to run standard .28 shock bodies/shafts and when you need to drop the chassis, just back off on the preload and crank in the droop screws as needed. As the foams wear, more preload and letting the suspension droop more will maintain ride height...

Does this help?

sloshedmr_bones

iTrader: (6)

ok tried the car with the new gearing i am running now which is 88/16 *1.83 for a fd of 10.065 and all the esc settings lowered to the lowest and the esc , motor, and battery fried. The battery expanded, the motor just quit, and the esc wires melted. I dont know what else to do. I took the motor out before i did anything and the car rolled freely nothing was binding. Now what? I have tried everything anyone has thrown at me and nothing has worked yet. suggestions again. Thanx

radarwill

Holy smokes, what a mess. How long did it run before all the frying. Something was drawing a LOT of current. You did not metion that the wires from ESC to motor fried, so I assume they are intact. That beging said, huge current was being drawn from the esc to the battery and not the motor. My guess is that the esc has problems. You are in the ball park with the gearing and even if you were way off it would cause the motor to get hot but not melting hot. If you swelled batter is a lipo, dispose of it properly. Did you call castle creations?

mojoman

iTrader: (11)

I've got a bunch of xxx-s stuff for sale in this thread. Check it out!!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=176521

pyro18t

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering is some of you guys could help me out. I'm running on a small tight asphalt track, it has a small back streach and several technical turns.

I was talking to one of the Local Pros here ( in germany) And he didn't speak much english, but he did manage to tall me that my car is setup wrong. I bought it used from someone who used to race carpet and pretty much left it un-changed. I don't know what oil is in the shocks, and I'm running blue springs all the way around. I took the one-way out, but I think I'm going to put it back in, 35R sorex's, and a 19T Komodo Pro. I have purple,blue,sliver, and green springs.

Can someone hook me up with a good base setup? I.E what hubs, oil, springs, tires, shock positions. All the good stuff. I've been bashing for about 15 years, but I think I'm really going to try to get into hard core racing while I'm here in germany. So lay it on me guys. Any help would be great.

Jay

RoseTuned

Can anyone here give me a Hand. I just baught another car wich makes 4 for me in the past week.

I got the RTR LOSI XXX-S Sport II Brushless with the 10.5 Novak and the Novak 10.5 ESC. Ive been drifting with it since thats what ive been doing for along time now is Drifting with my other cars but Id really like to get this Car Ready to Race.

My Questions are below

#1. What bearings should I get
#2. Should I upgrade the Motor (Hows a 3.5 Brushless upgrade lol) I know tooooo fast.
#3. What kind of Lube and Oil should I use for the Bearings and Shocks.
#4. The Best Tires to Buy.

If I missed anything else just let me know. I started to read the Forums but I wasnt going to read over 400 Pages. I got tired after the first 30.

I do like this Car and overall its been good to me. I did buy it used and had to replace the Spur Gear but other then that no Issues.

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

Regarding a starting point for setup, here is what I posted several posts above this -- works great for me for 13.5 and 10.5 power...:

About power -- I've found that the 13.5 or 10.5 are plenty of power for most parking lot style racing... Locally, when running brushed Modified motors on a pretty good parking lot, the wildest I ever ran was a 12 turn brushed motor -- untreated parking lots (no sugar water or VHT) just limit how much power you can use.

As to tires, locally CS27's are the general rule, with some guys running RP30's (but with shorter tire life) or Sorex 32R's... I know some get fancy with insert/tire combinations, but 90% of the local racers just run premounted CS27's or RP30's. The convenience is more than worth it...

RoseTuned

Ive ran the Novak 3.5 Brushless and right now im running in my RS4 Sport is a peak racing 10 turn. the 3.5 is off the wall fast but im thinking about going lower. im sure they make faster.