Losi XXX-S

Old 05-10-2006, 01:16 AM
  #13561  
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This is just a new form of spam (voodoo)

check out his other posts
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...page=614&pp=30

dosnt want help just wants you to buy batteries.
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Old 05-10-2006, 02:29 AM
  #13562  
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Default Does Team Orion 4800 lipo fit in the xxx-s ?

Hi guys...

I would like to get Team Orion 4800 Lipo for my Losi xxx-s G+.

Here is my question : does the Lipo 4800 fit in the car easily ? Is there many modifications to do ? If yes, what are these modifications ?

Does anybody have some pictures of a xxx-s with Lipo battery ?

Cheers.
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Old 05-10-2006, 03:22 AM
  #13563  
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y-bear you are wrong its nothing to do with spam but just to make you happy i took that part out. i am having trouble and charles is helping me out. thank you for the ideas ill try them out this weekend
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:55 AM
  #13564  
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Originally Posted by Blin
Hi guys...

I would like to get Team Orion 4800 Lipo for my Losi xxx-s G+.

Here is my question : does the Lipo 4800 fit in the car easily ? Is there many modifications to do ? If yes, what are these modifications ?

Does anybody have some pictures of a xxx-s with Lipo battery ?

Cheers.
If the Li-po fits Xray T2, I think it will fit any TC just like XXX-S G+....but since the Losi are running 7 cells slot for choice of batteries placement, when you mount the Li-po, you might need a foam dummy cell block to fit behind or in front of the Li-po so the Li-po would not move forward and backward..

Oh...you need to flip the battery strap bar unside down...you might already figured that out.
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Old 05-12-2006, 04:58 AM
  #13565  
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Default Team Orion 4800 Li-po on xxx-s ?

Hi guys,

Any pics of team orion 4800 Li-po on a xxx-s ? Is there many modifications to do ?

Cheers.
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Old 05-12-2006, 07:54 PM
  #13566  
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I taped mine in. The notch on the battery strap doesn't line up. I removed it and use the strap with the tape. Tape is not such a big deal since you don't have to change packs.
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Old 05-13-2006, 04:44 AM
  #13567  
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Thanks guys for your answers.

Cheers.
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Old 05-16-2006, 07:15 AM
  #13568  
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I just bought a XXX-S RTRII package. I haven't run it yet, but so far its construction looks much better quality compared to my old Tamiya TT01.

However have noticed that the drivetrain is very tight. By this I mean it will only roll as far as you push it. I thought it might have been resistance from the motor, or the pinion/spur mesh binding.

So I've adjusted the gear mesh so that the pinion doesn't contact the spur and tried rolling it again. Its feels a little free-er and will actually roll after a bit of a push. But its still a lot tighter than my ball raced Tamiya TT01.

I would just like to get some opinions about this tightness before I power it up for a test (don't want to break anything in the drivetrain on the first run as I missed out on doing a check). Is this tightness normal due to it being new and unused, and that it will loosen up with a bit of use. Or am I supposed to strip it right down and lube/adjust all the bearings (can't find any notes suggesting this and think this kind of defeats purpose of buying an RTR?)
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Old 05-16-2006, 07:22 AM
  #13569  
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koinonis-My bet is its two things.

1-new bearings full of grease

2-belt tension is on the tighter side and a new belt.

It doesnt sound out of the ordinary if it will roll a little after a push. When everything breaks in after two or three packs-it will be looser. if you really want a freer spinning drivetrain-you will need to take the whole car apart, clean all bearings of lube, reoil, buy the black belt kit, etc.

Just enjoy it.
Ray
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by koinonas
I just bought a XXX-S RTRII package. I haven't run it yet, but so far its construction looks much better quality compared to my old Tamiya TT01.

However have noticed that the drivetrain is very tight. By this I mean it will only roll as far as you push it. I thought it might have been resistance from the motor, or the pinion/spur mesh binding.

So I've adjusted the gear mesh so that the pinion doesn't contact the spur and tried rolling it again. Its feels a little free-er and will actually roll after a bit of a push. But its still a lot tighter than my ball raced Tamiya TT01.

I would just like to get some opinions about this tightness before I power it up for a test (don't want to break anything in the drivetrain on the first run as I missed out on doing a check). Is this tightness normal due to it being new and unused, and that it will loosen up with a bit of use. Or am I supposed to strip it right down and lube/adjust all the bearings (can't find any notes suggesting this and think this kind of defeats purpose of buying an RTR?)
I think Ray hit it right on the head. New bearings are packed with grease.. They will loosen up..

Belt tension on the XXXS can decieve. It should not feel like piano wire tight.. should have maybe half to 3/4 of a centimeter of play. Good way to test is to run the car full nut and the full brake.. the belt should slip slightly. (youll know when it slips, it sounds awfull)

Let us know how you like the car!

Keith
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:32 AM
  #13571  
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Originally Posted by Blin
Hi guys,

Any pics of team orion 4800 Li-po on a xxx-s ? Is there many modifications to do ?

Cheers.
Let me know.
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Old 05-21-2006, 02:40 AM
  #13572  
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Well took the XXX-s for its first run today (just around a car park) after swapping out the 19turn and dropping in a new silver can. I think the tightness was a mix of the 19turn and the bearings all packed with new grease. Drivetrain free-ed up a bit after a while (though still not as loose as the TT01 yet).

Impressions so far. The thing is so much more accurate, stable and controllable than the tamiya. Not upset by bumps as much (now I understand why no-one likes friction shocks), and things are much more progressive.

Really happy with the handling (setup as it came out of the box) and would say performance will improve when the bearings and motor etc all get worn in a bit more.

Looking forward to when I actually get to take it out for a race meet.
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Old 05-21-2006, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by koinonas
Well took the XXX-s for its first run today (just around a car park) after swapping out the 19turn and dropping in a new silver can.
Try a CO 27 just got back from a great performance at my lhs. Didn't finish but had a blast giving the fast guys a run for their money . The xxx-s is an all around good car just need to know the right setup
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:18 PM
  #13574  
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Don't overlook the advice above about the belt tension...

Run the belt as loose as you can... I tend to set mine as described in the post above -- I know it's right when it just skips under extreme braking at the end of the straight. When it skips, it sounds like it's stripping the belt (really loud noise!), but it doesn't seem to hurt it. If you set it so tight that it never skips, you're wasting speed... Also remember that LOSI has sold a variety of belts that gradually added efficiency... The original blue belt was OK, but then the yellow belt was better and you only had to switch belts. The newest "long" black belt is even better, but you have to replace the idler wheel and tension arm with a new longer arm, etc...

I'm still running the yellow belt, but have the long belt conversion ready to put on...
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:15 PM
  #13575  
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I run my belts very lose,say 8mm slac with a 540 and a bit tighter with the stock moter (people give you some funny looks and try to tell you there somthing wrong when it skips. and as said before wash all the grease out of the bearings and lube with a drop of machine oil.
I like to tinker so i clean and relube my bearings after every second race week.
The black belt kit is a must, ive got a rtr with the black belt and a G+ the rtr has every second tooth cut out of the belt for even lees friction. Its a bit extreem but seems to help a little not realy worth doing unless your realy keen.
i like to get my cars to the point that they will roll away on a gentile slope ( with no motor)

remember a free drive train is going to give you un edge and a cooler moter.
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