2LikesLosi XXX-S
02-26-2005, 10:57 AM
all i used to do with my xxx-s graphite parts was take a ball stud and crank them into each hole, then assemble the car.
A ball stud is really hard to strip, plus you know its the right thread. As for fixing your problem... maybe switch to a slightly bigger thread? maybe something metric
A ball stud is really hard to strip, plus you know its the right thread. As for fixing your problem... maybe switch to a slightly bigger thread? maybe something metric
02-26-2005, 11:30 AM
Thanks NVisible.
Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 02-26-2005 at 12:11 PM.
02-26-2005, 11:43 AM
Originally posted by Thai3g_Eclipse
Sorry if this is a repetitive question, but is the black belt conversion worth it and is it effective?
Sorry if this is a repetitive question, but is the black belt conversion worth it and is it effective?
02-26-2005, 11:45 AM
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
I just purchased a replacement chassis for one of my XXX-S Graphite Plus cars and need to tap 4-40 threads into it for the diff cover screws.
Both of my chassis are pretty well stripped out in those holes on both ends.
I understand that all 4-40 taps are not alike. Some are tight and some not so. Not sure what I actually have; but, I would have to call the new tapped holes on the "loose" side. Have used both stainless steel and titanium screws which may lead to that loose feeling.
I also know about using CA in these holes to entend their useful life. Have been doing that since the problem developed.
Anyone got any suggestions on how to do this so the threads in the graphite chassis stay intact for as long as possible? Thanks.
I just purchased a replacement chassis for one of my XXX-S Graphite Plus cars and need to tap 4-40 threads into it for the diff cover screws.
Both of my chassis are pretty well stripped out in those holes on both ends.
I understand that all 4-40 taps are not alike. Some are tight and some not so. Not sure what I actually have; but, I would have to call the new tapped holes on the "loose" side. Have used both stainless steel and titanium screws which may lead to that loose feeling.
I also know about using CA in these holes to entend their useful life. Have been doing that since the problem developed.
Anyone got any suggestions on how to do this so the threads in the graphite chassis stay intact for as long as possible? Thanks.
02-26-2005, 12:13 PM
Originally posted by RandyB
Billget some 4-40 inserts like tubing but the inside is threaded drill the hole big enough and CA it in you'll have to prob' use machine screws to go into the inserts.
Billget some 4-40 inserts like tubing but the inside is threaded drill the hole big enough and CA it in you'll have to prob' use machine screws to go into the inserts.
Are you talking about doing this to the NEW chassis that I am preparing?
Otherwise, looks like a good solution to resurrect an OLD chassis.
Thanks.
02-26-2005, 04:39 PM
either i guess if you have problems with thm stripping all the time just take care of it from theget go!
02-26-2005, 04:43 PM
Originally posted by SPC Racer
how much do ceramic bearings help this car and how long will they last and how much will they take and any other secrets to free up the drivetrain and how to take the slop out of the steering.
how much do ceramic bearings help this car and how long will they last and how much will they take and any other secrets to free up the drivetrain and how to take the slop out of the steering.
Ceramic bearings are not neccesary fora fre drive train though just anadded touch that helps.
where is the slop coming from?? bell cranks?? lots of points to look for
randy b
02-26-2005, 05:27 PM
Ceramics all the way...ceramic bearings at all points and ceramic balls for the diff/thrust areas.
Makes for free and smooth drivetrain.
Makes for free and smooth drivetrain.
02-26-2005, 07:06 PM
Originally posted by NinjaViper
Here are the side foams mentioned. And now that I see what a Buds bumper is I realized that I got them on one of my XXX-S's I got off ebay and took them off, I will have to get them back on if they are that good.
Here are the side foams mentioned. And now that I see what a Buds bumper is I realized that I got them on one of my XXX-S's I got off ebay and took them off, I will have to get them back on if they are that good.
02-26-2005, 11:50 PM
Thank you for the answer RandyB and RBLove.
02-27-2005, 12:00 AM
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
Ceramics all the way...ceramic bearings at all points and ceramic balls for the diff/thrust areas.
Makes for free and smooth drivetrain.
Ceramics all the way...ceramic bearings at all points and ceramic balls for the diff/thrust areas.
Makes for free and smooth drivetrain.
I've been running the XXXS again for the past couple weeks, just waiting for the JRXS to arrive, I'm excited for it!
02-27-2005, 06:41 AM
shocks
Does anyone have a suggetsion for the leaking shocks-xxx-s- ie for a replacement by another company that will fit?
02-27-2005, 08:13 AM
Re: shocks
Originally posted by fire929
Does anyone have a suggetsion for the leaking shocks-xxx-s- ie for a replacement by another company that will fit?
Does anyone have a suggetsion for the leaking shocks-xxx-s- ie for a replacement by another company that will fit?
02-27-2005, 08:15 AM
Originally posted by Randy Caster
And lightweight drivetrain
I've been running the XXXS again for the past couple weeks, just waiting for the JRXS to arrive, I'm excited for it!
And lightweight drivetrain
I've been running the XXXS again for the past couple weeks, just waiting for the JRXS to arrive, I'm excited for it!
02-27-2005, 10:18 AM
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
And Randy KNOWS how to lighten a XXX-S.
And Randy KNOWS how to lighten a XXX-S.
