DavidAlford

iTrader: (31)

I tried both this past weekend in 19t and I must say I liked cyan/magenta a lot more the plaid/purple. The plaid/purple just seemed like it had really weird sidebite. Hard to explain but the car just didn't feel happy. Went back to cyan/magenta and it was dialed again.

POOKYT

I have usually found 2 things causing slop in my steering and linkages. #1 check and make sure your ball joints are all tight. #2 is usually there will be slop between the ball and the cup. To fix this I will use the plastic from like a parts bag and cut a 3mm square from it. Then pop off the ball cup and put the plastic in the cup. Pop it back on and the slop should be removed without putting the cup/ball in a a bind. Hope this helps

Brant

Tony Szep

It works great i have been running it for a while with a few minor changes.(shock position moved 1 more space up)

SPC Racer

iTrader: (5)

Whats a good starting point for a foam setup?

huskerfreak

iTrader: (5)

Personally I think that you want a little slop. If you make your ball cups to tight your suspendsion will not work as well causing the care to feel tweak.
I think a lot of the sloppiness is due to the stock servo saver. If you have a bullet proof servo go with a regular servo horn that does not have a built in servo saver. Or be like me and a lot of other guys I have seen and run the kimbrough servo saver arm. This will help quite a bit.

429racer

iTrader: (18)

Well guys, I tried the Bobby Flack setup today and let me tell you it was nothing short of just plain fast. It had plenty of steering. I used the new Parma tires and must say I was very impressed with them.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Does anyone have the McMaster-Carr catalog order number for the 3x8 thrust bearings that the Losi team drivers are using in their XXX-S cars?

R32GTR

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone point me to a set-up sheet for the XXX-S G+ that is good for a hotmix outdoor hi-speed track. We have to use Take Off CS27 tires and I am running a 9x1 motor. I just cant get rid of understeer! By the way temps are about 25c. Thanks.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Hi Daly,

1) Kill the spool
2) http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/xxxs_plus/index.htm

Timmy_G

iTrader: (1)

Just to add to the description a bit - the track temp would have reached 95degree farenheit.

imjonah

I assumed the first time I did this it might have been a frozen bearing, second time probably did not have the diff tight enough.

This time the bearings all seem ok and the diff was tight without being overly tight. There was enough diff grease.

Is there another common cause for the plastic in the center part of the pully to melt.

I was runing stock motor 23/88 gearing with rubber tires on asphalt.

Any ideas?

imjonah

Asphalt racing has ended here an I am thinking of running my XXX-S on a medium size indoor carpet. I have been a little frustrated my first year with all the problems with my car and with my own absent mindedness/simple mistakes.

My plan is to make a few changes to my car in order to make it a little more reliable and require a little less maintain. My plan is to work on driving skill in the off season instead of trying to make the car itself as fast as possible.

I am replacing all my bearings with rubber sealed ones. I am going to switch to longer life brushes and gear my stock motors a little lower. I am also going to get the wider front bumper(I already have the brace) I am going to use some of the clear duct tape and shoo goo to reinforce my body. I am going to try to do something to protect the rear axles. (It seems like hitting the wall whenever the car gets loose and the rear wheels even tap the wall I break a rear suspension part.)
I am going to charge my batterys at 4 amps and do a better job rotating my packs instead of depending on one or two good packs.
I am also going to try an test run the car out in the street the day before a race to help prevent nasty surprise on race day.

Does anyone have any tips for improving reliability and reducing maintainence on the XXX-S.

POOKYT

I have persoanlly only seen diff pulleys and ceter diff gears melt from the diff being too loose. When I rebuild a diff and have it back together, I gradually tighten the diff untill it feels about right. After that I use 2 of the Losi flat kit wrenches and place one on each side in the outdrive slots. Then I put the 2 wrencheson the edge of a table with the diff hanging off the table so I can hold the diff in place and try to move the pulley to see if its loose or tight. Hope that helps
P.S. If you get to a point that the pulley is loose but the diff is as tight as you can get it, then refer to the manual as you may be leaving out some of the diff parts.

Brant

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

I melted a rear diff pulley when I mistakenly used one of the 41 teeth pulleys on the rear end. I don't use a combination of overdrive/underdrive pulleys (42T/41T) anymore.

My problem also occurred using stock motor on asphalt.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

imjonah,

Guess I don't have any suggestions to "push the envelope". Sounds as though you are retreating to safe ground.

Are you running plastic or graphite parts on your XXX-S?

Does the indoor track have "friendly" barriers?

What amps were you charging at previously?

Don't consider carpet racing to be the "off season". It is a whole season unto itself and can be just as rewarding as asphalt. I know people that only race on carpet.