Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

heavier weight up front

pro3racer

i know that the trend is to not use the front droop screws, and instead use the preloader, but should the rear droops screws be used, or no.

429racer

iTrader: (19)

Highwayman: Stiffer front springs, thicker front shock oil, smaller hole piston in the front, less toe-in in the rear, take some droop out of the rear of the car (rear of the car does not lift as high when you pick it up), stand the front shock up more or lay the back shocks down. Try one thing at a time. Personally I would start with oil and pistons then springs, if the car is good on the rest of the track.

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

my baby almost done rebuilding

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

pic 2

TakDrift

lozi,

I know you're confused now. Just Assemble everything according to the instruction manual. Adjust the droop screws with the shocks detached from the lower arms. That will be good for stock racing.

Now if you're going to be racing in 19T class or Modified class on carpet or high bite surfaces the suggestions of Hixsy and IMPACTPLAYR would apply. The reason is the high shock rate these higher speed classes use. They use 35 lbs. and upwards shock springs. The droop screws attached to the bumpers with these high spring rate makes them (droop screws) ineffective because the bumper flexes. So, I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you're running other than stock which doesn't see outrageous spring rates.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

reduce rear uptravel, harder shock oil, tighter front diff....

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

Highwayman-You can try the things 429racer has already posted. The shock position is the wrong way though. Standing them up will make the car transition quicker. Can also try a longer front camber link.

Lozi-If you run rubber tires, than just run the droop screws. For foam we run no screws do to the amount of traction in the car and the way it is sprung. Put limiters in the shock to limit down travel and then fine tune with shock length.

429racer

iTrader: (19)

Brian L: Why would the shock position be wrong when if you lay the rear shocks down it will increase side bite? Is that not the way it works? It is what I have found to be accurate.

TakDrift

highwayman, I would start by increasing your rear droop. If you use the droop gauge that came with the XXS-S kit, increasing droop would be going from i.e. 4 to 2 on the gauge. Increasing rear droop will slow down the pitching of the car back to front. With increased rear droop the shock and suspension will have to travel longer when the load transfers from back to front thus slowing the reaction. Decreasing rear droop will have the opposite effect, shorter distance equals faster reaction.

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

429racer- I was talking about the front shock.I actually didn't see you had the rear shock listed at first. He said it was upsetting the car entering so I usually start at the front of the car then. It should give a slower reaction and make the transition getting in feel smoother on the front. I would start with the front shock and then the front camber link. After that I would then try the rear shock.

lozi

Hi all,

Thanks all for the reply. Had tried with the limiters in the rear. Works well. Up front i'm still using the droop screws though. By the way i'm running on asphalt.

Cars running well on the track just can't get that extra bottom end torque for stock (running the same ratio as they are), loosing out to all those darn shaft car.. hehe.. Some had suggested on tightening the pulley to get a bit more grunt. Any comments?

429racer

iTrader: (19)

What I have read that tightening the belt tension you get more acceleration and less top end and loosening vice versa. Always remember even if you have the same gear ratio doesn't mean you are gonna be as fast. You have to gear for what your motor will put out. Your motor might not be the same as what they are running. Good-luck!

highwayman

iTrader: (2)

Camber link position #1 (innermost)
Oil is 40wt
One way
rear droop is 5 on the droop guage
front is 3 on the guage (i measure on the arms)
Front shock position #3
rear shock position #2


i used to run with more droop in the rear.. 2 on the guage, but a couple of pages back, there was a discussion on droop affecting the weight transfer, therefore affecting steering, that's why i lessend the rear droop so that it wont throw so much weight in front. But honestly, it still feels the same though, even if i changed the droop.


anyway, i dont think harder springs will work, the track is too bumpy... maybe the oil ill try...

thanks,

jason

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Tightening the belt will helps out some. You can either drop down one pinion and hope the top end doesn't suffer or tighten the belt. I don't have a problem keeping up with a shaft car. If I do see that a shaft car might have a slight edge out of the corners on me I make sure that I keep up my corner speed so that it's a wash. The TC3 is a prime example. It gets out of the corners fast but (IMO) it lacks a bit of corner speed so this is where I try to take advantage of someone driving a TC3. Once you adjust the belt see if that helps if not try the gearing. I hope one of the suggestions helps you out.