ORANGE DOG

iTrader: (56)

NO your eyes arent playing tricks on you. The diff screw should be identical like the first one you assembled. I suggest you give Losi a call to tell them what you had discovered with the screw. They more than likely would replace it for you. If you cant wait for Losi to replace it you can always buy the diff screw separately in the mean while.

ryan

Cool thanks.

I'm taking a look at what my LHS has in stock since I can't wait for Losi to ship me the diff adjust screw (but I'll call them anyways). Anyhow, my LHS carries:
TMLA3078 XX DIF SCREW/HARDWARE -- this was listed under "Team Losi XX". The '3078' in this case is the same part number as the stock diff screw I need for the XXX-S. Does anyone know for sure that it's the same part and that it would work? Alternatively, they also carry "Monster Diff Adjustment Screw and Hardware" part no. A-2909 for the XXX-NT.. This should definitely work right?

Thanks.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Ryan,

The part number for the XX4 will suffice. Same stuff.

futureal

One good thing about the XXX-S (especially for those of us that got it when it first came out) is that a lot of the smaller parts are identical to ones found on older Losi vehicles. Diff hardware, especially...

ZER01

Does anyone know what will happen if I add washers under the ball ends on the front carriers and rear hubs?

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

By adding the washers you gain more camber-rise. For parking lots I have used them in in the rear carrier and not in the front hubs.

The difference between the two angles (car at ride height and the car suspension compressed) represents the camber rise.

ZER01

Thanks MDawson for the info and that pic of the your custom chassis is trick. Nice work!

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

It is how much the camber changes on the car when the suspension is compressed.

SirSpeedy

iTrader: (2)

Adding washers under the ballstuds also lowers the roll center, which will help free up the car on high-bite surfaces.

I have had much success with running one washer under the front carrier ball, and one or two under the rear on carpet. Especially when the traction comes up.

Give it a shot. Lowering the rollcenter will also help develop tracion on relatively low-bite surfaces.

ZER01

Well this is what I found out about adding washers under the front and rear ball studs.

More Parallel Link

(More Parallel to lower arm) A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one.It feels very smooth, and consistent as the body rolls in turns.

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Angled Link

(Distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside) An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (level, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar.It gives a little more initial grip, steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car.The body rolls a little less than with parallel links.It's possible to use softer settings for damping and spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilising the car.

Thanks to all who got me thinking about this adjustment.

Addict sa RC

Hey guys, which piston would have bigger holes, #55(orange) or #56(red)? Thanks.

ZER01

orange

SirSpeedy

iTrader: (2)

Losi uses "SAE wire drill bit" sizes to label the sizes of their pistons.

Any drill bit below 1/4"(0.25") can also be identified by a number. A #1 drill bit is 0.228". As the size goes down, the numbers go up, all the way to a #78 drill, which is 0.016". Pretty damn small!

So at any rate, Losi uses wire drill sizes......54, 55, 56, 57, and they offer a 60 for you to use to custom drill whatever you like.

Addict sa RC

Ok. Thanks guys!

ZER01

Anyone know the differance between Losi's "brown" differential lube and their clear differential lube that comes in a tube.