tufferwilde

As for racing on a better prepared (decent traction) track... I tend to start with Blues front and rear, 50 wt, with front and rear sway bars (I think the second from thinnest for the front and the thinnest for the rear is what I ran at least year's reedy race)

This was on TakeOff CS27's (the handout tire for the event...)

The reason I have been running that soft is the amount of traction I get on a VERY slippery track.....

Red's were the stiffest I could get to with the traction avail.... but as the track is being repaved in a couple of weeks, I am sure that the stiffer springs will be coming back out!

Wilde

NeO-pRo-3

WAt turnbuckle rods would make the wheels less wobbley? I forgot what they were called if the thing i'm talking about isnt what it truley is. I'm not sure what's it's called because i'm a NEWBIE

Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

Can someone explain what installing the low roll center blocks on the front or rear will do? I have been unable to find a good explanation of this so any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Blake.

ROBORAT

iTrader: (7)

LouieB: we run at a low-med bite track here with our cars and use red springs with 55 pistons, 40 wt. AE oil all around and sorex 36s or 40s (yes 40s! the temps get rediculously hot here!). Silvers work well too or a red silver combo.

Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

Neo-pro-3,

Maybe you are thinking of the ball cups, they are usually the cause of the slop in the wheels. I switched to RPM ball cups and they helped a lot.

Blake

omnifire

iTrader: (3)

Howdy XXX-Sers...

I'm planning on gettig into sedan racing and was wonderig how the RTR XXX-S would do in club racing. Right now its just carpet racing, but will eventually move outside to the parking lot. The reason I was considering the RTR is because I am needing a radio for the car too. Can I still be competitive without the graphite car? Is it worth it to just go graphite right away?

rod_b

If you race, and you're serious about your racing you should just get the G+ right away. The stock car is not bad. It's a little heavy and still works fine for smooth flowing tracks but seems to give up ground out of the corners to the TC3s on tight technical tracks where there is a lot of "slow down then punch it" racing. Just my opinion.

tufferwilde

Omnifire -

As for the question of purchasing the newer car or upgrade.... If you have the money, it is a very worthwhile investment.... but if you are just getting into racing, the plastic components will be more forgiving and easier to drive.

The key to carpet racing isn't the point and shoot, but quite the opposite, since you have so much traction available, the biggest factor is going to be corner speed.... if you carry the most, and don't have the fastest car on the track, chances are that you will still be in the running...


But, as I said, if you have the money available, I would go for the graphite conversion or get the G+...


regards, Wilde

omnifire

iTrader: (3)

Great info guys... thanks.

Also, I was wondering about these power supplies I see. What is the advantages to having one? Is it bad to plug your charger straight into the wall outlet for some reason? And will I notice that much of a difference with 3000 batteries over 2400?

Bigtbone

I have used both charging methodsDC/AC and have not been able to notice a difference.. usually plug in versions of a charger cost a tad more for the internal power converter.

racecar850

"usually plug in versions of a charger cost a tad more for the internal power converter."

But a power supply costs an arm & leg

LouisB

You can buy a P/S and use it to power any 12v charger as well as soldering irons etc. There are so many 12v only chargers out there that a power supply is the only option for some people. I have a 20A version that cost $100 and I use a CS spacecharger (got for $70) so the total is $170, how much is a Reedy Quasar Pro again???

I'm not really sure what I should class the tracks i race on as. They are car parks and not prepared at all, mostly smooth with a few imperfections here and there. Everyone uses CS 22-27, ING 22-25 or Sorex 24-28, even in the summer! It really is that cold.
I'll go and find my car and post what it's set-up like at the moment and see if anyone can give me any ideas.
As an idea of grip it seems to be very well balanced front to rear but it does drift wide sometimes. I don't notice very much body roll.

tufferwilde

The theory behind using 12DC is that the power is "cleaner"

As for the AC/DC chargers, to get a good one, be prepared to plunk down about $200+.... All of these chargers simply contain a cheap internal power supply and step the juice down to the area of 12VDC

NiMH and NiCd are two completely different types of cells that are available. NiMH cells are not as damaging to the environment.... the FDA in the US is currently phazing out use of all NiCd cells.... thus the reason for the explosion of NiMH technology on the market and the reason good NiCd packs are difficult to find!!

On top of that, the care for the NiMH packs is far easier since they retain mo "memory" so do not require the tedious charging.discharging methods used for NiCd packs.... hope I shed some light on it for ya!

Wilde

LouisB

Here is my standard set-up. I sometimes like to put on the 4* caster blocks or stand the front shocks up 1 hole.

LouisB

i don't actually have the G+, but i have the new rear tower and chassis (sort of) but not the new off-set hubs.